Somewhat new to driving stick. Have a question
#1
Somewhat new to driving stick. Have a question
I know there is thread on how to drive stick but I know if I post there, I won't get answered..
Okay. So as you're changing gears, should you completely engage the clutch before you start giving it gas or should you be giving it gas as soon as it catches and give it more the more you let the clutch out?
Okay. So as you're changing gears, should you completely engage the clutch before you start giving it gas or should you be giving it gas as soon as it catches and give it more the more you let the clutch out?
Last edited by jdubin94; 05-20-2012 at 10:17 AM.
#4
#7
Your left foot and right foot basically go in opposite directions at the same time. You basically want to shift so the car goes as smoothly as possible, but having the clutch partially engaged for the shortest amount possible. The more you use your clutch to get everything to go smoothly, the quicker you're going to wear it out.
Anything but stop to first should go pretty quickly. Your engine revs shouldn't be dropping before your clutch is partially engaged.
Of course this is upshifting. If you are downshifting you want to tap your gas to rev match before you let out the clutch.
Anything but stop to first should go pretty quickly. Your engine revs shouldn't be dropping before your clutch is partially engaged.
Of course this is upshifting. If you are downshifting you want to tap your gas to rev match before you let out the clutch.
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#8
Downshifting is pointless in 80% of your driving, and only causes unnecessary wear on all your drivetrain components.
Put the car in neutral and Use the brakes for the job they're designed for, stopping/slowing the car. Then if you need ot keep progressing and don't come ot a complete stop after braking, choose your gear accordingly and engage.
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GreenPenguin (05-20-2012)
#11
#12
No, after you hit the clutch, the engine revs will hang around (or go slightly up) for like one second. To get nice clean shifts, you need to be engaging your clutch again before it starts dropping. It's kind of difficult at first, but soon it'll become natural as your left foot gets better. Eventually, you don't need to press the clutch all the way to the floor once your left foot gets used to the engage point, and you can get quickly back. Don't recommend it at first because you risk grinding your gears which is worse than burning your clutch.
Once your engine revs dropped, you need to tap your gas to rev match before letting out the clutch to get a smooth shift. Same any time basically your clutch is rotating more than your flywheel. Like when you're downshifting (like changing lanes on a freeway and need to accelerate). Or when you've been coasting in neutral at 700 rpm and need to shift into gear.
Once your engine revs dropped, you need to tap your gas to rev match before letting out the clutch to get a smooth shift. Same any time basically your clutch is rotating more than your flywheel. Like when you're downshifting (like changing lanes on a freeway and need to accelerate). Or when you've been coasting in neutral at 700 rpm and need to shift into gear.
#13
Keep in mind, brakes are a heck of a lot cheaper than a clutch/flywheel.
Downshifting is pointless in 80% of your driving, and only causes unnecessary wear on all your drivetrain components.
Put the car in neutral and Use the brakes for the job they're designed for, stopping/slowing the car. Then if you need ot keep progressing and don't come ot a complete stop after braking, choose your gear accordingly and engage.
Downshifting is pointless in 80% of your driving, and only causes unnecessary wear on all your drivetrain components.
Put the car in neutral and Use the brakes for the job they're designed for, stopping/slowing the car. Then if you need ot keep progressing and don't come ot a complete stop after braking, choose your gear accordingly and engage.
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TunerMax (05-19-2012)
#14
Think of it this way: your clutch and flywheel is what connects the engine to the drivetrain. When it's engaged, the motor is connected tot he drivetrain and has all the load and weight of the wheels and all to turn. When it's disengaged, your motor doesn't have any load on it anymore so it doesn't really have to work to keep turning, and it doesn't have a load on it to slow it down anymore.
Now with this little piece of knowledge about how your transmission works, the whole point of rev-matching is to get both sides to be spinning at the same speed when you re-engage the clutch when you downshift so your clutch can catch smoothly, rather than bite hard from the difference in revs.
Now with this little piece of knowledge about how your transmission works, the whole point of rev-matching is to get both sides to be spinning at the same speed when you re-engage the clutch when you downshift so your clutch can catch smoothly, rather than bite hard from the difference in revs.
#15
Downshifting is perfectly fine if it's done properly with rev-matching, as well as being done for the right reasons. You don't ever want to use downshifting to slow down, or "engine-brake" as that does nothing good for your transmission. You downshift to keep the revs up so you have power to accelerate out of the turn.
Most downshifting is done improperly and pointlessly, hency my random 80% number figure extrodinaryium.