03 G35 Sedan Ball Joint replacement ANYBODY?
What is so difficult? Plently of information on this topic just search.
OK First- DO NOT rent the AutoZone ball joint press. You need the press from Advance Auto, ONLY because it comes with the 2-7/16” I.D. adapter. You WILL NOT be able to press the OEM ball joint out with the 2-1/4” I.D. adapter; it's about 1/8” too narrow, cannot slide over the outer lip of the OEM ball joint. If you could find a 2-3/8” steel tube you would probably have the best fit. You will be able to use the 2-1/4” I.D. adapter if you are replacing an eBay Bremen ball joint- they have a barely smaller O.D. than OEM.
The job is not difficult, just a little challenging. Thanks to blak max for the inspiration to pop it off on the car. All you need is the correct size press adapters and a long steel pipe. You do not even need muscle for this (which is what I though would be the problem for me).
Here we go with a step by step similar to blak max-
MAKE SURE CAR IS ON FLAT GROUND AND SECURE BECAUSE YOU WILL BE ROCKING THE CAR
Top to bottom- 2-7/16” I.D. adapter for pressing old ball joint off car. Next, smaller diameter for pressing new ball joint on car and a short adapter to allow the ball joint to press completely through. Notice the end pieces have a smaller and larger I.D. Bigger I.D. always goes on top no matter if pressing in or out.
You need to remove the conical spacer off the old ball joint before you can use the adapters, unless you find a longer adapter. To do this use a fork like blak max did and hit it with a sledge hammer-go to town.
Set-up for pressing old ball joint off; will need to remove lower piece to press out completely. Make sure the pieces are lined up straight and not off center. It will make the job so much easier if you straighten it out and tighten by hand at first to secure it steady. This is where you MUST use a 2-7/16" adapter with the kit and NOT a 2-1/4". Too bad they don't make one size in between.
Stop here and remove lower end, it helped give you a great start, now the rest will be done without the bottom piece.
Turn til it gets out using this setup
Can’t do the job without the pipe
This is the setup for pressing new, notice the short spacer on the bottom so the new ball joint can go down completely.
Here is the press positioned against the lower control arm. That will help so the hub doesn’t move all around. You will need to use the stop on the compression rod when pressing the driver side.
Make sure you anti-seize the stud and cotter pine hole.
If I’m missing anything let me know and I will answer any questions.
I don’t know of any specific symptoms for the lower ball joints. My car has about 165K on it so I was sure they needed to be replaced, thought I would give it a try. Basically my car feels “newer” and not as loose in the front with the new ball joints. Haven’t test drove it that much but I think the clunk when maxing out my steering is gone. And bumps/pot holes are a little less rough. Lets see how it acts on the highway..
The job is not difficult, just a little challenging. Thanks to blak max for the inspiration to pop it off on the car. All you need is the correct size press adapters and a long steel pipe. You do not even need muscle for this (which is what I though would be the problem for me).
Here we go with a step by step similar to blak max-
MAKE SURE CAR IS ON FLAT GROUND AND SECURE BECAUSE YOU WILL BE ROCKING THE CAR
Top to bottom- 2-7/16” I.D. adapter for pressing old ball joint off car. Next, smaller diameter for pressing new ball joint on car and a short adapter to allow the ball joint to press completely through. Notice the end pieces have a smaller and larger I.D. Bigger I.D. always goes on top no matter if pressing in or out.
You need to remove the conical spacer off the old ball joint before you can use the adapters, unless you find a longer adapter. To do this use a fork like blak max did and hit it with a sledge hammer-go to town.
Set-up for pressing old ball joint off; will need to remove lower piece to press out completely. Make sure the pieces are lined up straight and not off center. It will make the job so much easier if you straighten it out and tighten by hand at first to secure it steady. This is where you MUST use a 2-7/16" adapter with the kit and NOT a 2-1/4". Too bad they don't make one size in between.
Stop here and remove lower end, it helped give you a great start, now the rest will be done without the bottom piece.
Turn til it gets out using this setup
Can’t do the job without the pipe
This is the setup for pressing new, notice the short spacer on the bottom so the new ball joint can go down completely.
Here is the press positioned against the lower control arm. That will help so the hub doesn’t move all around. You will need to use the stop on the compression rod when pressing the driver side.
Make sure you anti-seize the stud and cotter pine hole.
If I’m missing anything let me know and I will answer any questions.
I don’t know of any specific symptoms for the lower ball joints. My car has about 165K on it so I was sure they needed to be replaced, thought I would give it a try. Basically my car feels “newer” and not as loose in the front with the new ball joints. Haven’t test drove it that much but I think the clunk when maxing out my steering is gone. And bumps/pot holes are a little less rough. Lets see how it acts on the highway..
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Thank man, great post. I wish I could see it before I took my car to my mechanic. Good point on the tool as well, I think that was my problem, I rented out tool from PepBoys and the press tool was wrong for the ball joint size we have on g35. Rings were either to big or too small. I will be getting Megan ball joints by the end of the summer, well definitely use proper tools this time.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
I didn't disconnect the endlink when I pressed the ball joints but You need an allen wrench in the end link stud and then a wrench to loosen the nut. You will need to jack up the spindle to get the right height to release the endlink
Must really watch the torque specs (59 ft/lb) for the top bolt on the ball joint. If too tight, you run the risk of damaging the joint when driving. Too much pressure will cause it to pop.
Too little will cause it to knock around. Be sure to use your jack to simulate the car on the ground by lifting the joint into the control arm. This is the best way to get that bolt on and it could be torqued correctly.
I went with a Mevotech Ball joint with a polyurethane boot and it also had a grease fitting on the bottom. ($60 for the pair on ebay) This is a mild upgrade from the OEM. The poly boot won't dry out or crack as the rubber one will. And the grease fitting allows the ball joint to be serviced periodically thus keeping the ball joint clean of impurities which could lessen the lifespan.
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