Since around 3 days ago the car takes longer than normal to start and has kind of a weak start intermittently. If I shut it of and immediately start it up again it does as it should. If an our goes by or two and I try to start it, it does this. I tried different keys to make sure its not the magnet in the key. I added a fuel stabilizer in case if the fuel was bad but it keeps on doing it. The problem only appears when I started because it seems to run fine and check engine light isn't on or anything. My brother told me it could possibly be a cam sensor but I'm not sure because I had bad crank sensors last year and the car stalled sometimes and wasn't running fine, plus it had VDC, Slip and service engine light on. Here's a vid of what it does.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSa4W...ature=youtu.be

If anyone can help I would appreciate it. It's driving me nuts!

 

Anyone?

 

My car was not starting quickly either. I went to advance and they tested the battery and charging system for me. The battery was crap so I bought a new one. My car is a 2006 and that was the original battery. I just changed it a month or two ago.

I would start with getting it checked, but it sounds like a dying battery to me.

 

That sounds like exactly the thing my 04X did before I had to get the throttle body replaced.

A remanufactured throttle body is ~$240 from nissan (with a $40 refund on the core). Do not skimp on this part since when I fixed it on my car the first replacement throttle body was defective and I ended up throwing alot of money at the problem trying to fix other things before the dealership found out it was defective. It turned my ~$350 problem into a $1,300 problem and I had to spend a half hour yelling at the worthless dealership that sold it to me.

 

could be battery. check that. my old 2003 nissan sentra SE-R had slow start-ups. the culprit was the battery.

 

My battery was changed about a month ago because it was bad. The car only does this after being an our or two shut off. If I start it the next morning its fine, if I start it immediately after being on it starts fine. I'm so confused. If the TB was bad, doesn't the car rune fine? Because mine runs completely fine, or at least it feels like it. Strange thing is that theres no CEL or any other symptoms at all. Could it be the fuel regulator? Thank you all for the reply!

 

I'm almost sure that it is fuel related. Strangely if I wait 30 or more seconds with the switch on it starts fine. I guess I'll have to get the pump checked or a relay or something. Anybody got any ideas?

 

Fuel pressure is bleeding off. These cars keep the fuel pressure even when turned off. something is causing your fuel pressure to bleed off and when u turn the key it has to build the pressure back up before the motor will start. Could be pump, leak, pressure regulator, etc...

Go head and clean the maf and see what that does just to make sure it is not maf related.

 

Thanks! I'll do that. I'll try next week to take it to the dealer to check the psi when it starts like this which is about an hour or two of being off and I'll report back.

 

Well. Just got it checked yesterday and apparently its losing fuel presdure because the fuel pump is going bad. The freaking thing is worth $1400 lol!

 

No it isn't.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/17040-p...-p-187186.html

You can probably find it even cheaper, especially if you go away from OEM.
Or get a In-tank Walbro 255 for $100 that comes with the filter and everything except the oring that seats the assembly.

Hopefully they'll stand behind the diagnosis, because if it's not the fuel pump, who's paying for that labour and part?

 

They told me some lady had payed about 1400 for absolutely everything. I've been searching online and they seem to run around $200. Could I fit one from a 350z? Because I think I can find that very easily.

 

The 350Z, G35 Coupe, and G35 Sedan all use the exact same unit, so YES, they all fit.

 

So, what would be your suggestion? aftermarket one or OEM? Does an aftermarket one help make more power? lol

 

Pumps create flow, that's all they do. so in direct answer to your question- no.

A walbro 255 is the cheapest relaible option, IMO.
OEM for $200 is pretty reasonable,a nd will be the MOST reliable option.

I am not recommending you accuse the Fuel pump for this issue, I dont' knwo what the issue is, but if you're going to buy a fuel pump and just need advice, that's it.