Halogen Bulb Replacement!
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Halogen Bulb Replacement!
Hi, I am planning on replacing my Highbeam/Fog halogens with some Nokya 7000K bulbs on my 2003 G35 Sedan.. I just replaced my low beam with 8000K 35W HIDs. I am a little confused with the Nokya bulbs though... What is the difference between stage 1 and stage 2? I see it has something to do with wattage. So what stage should I get because I don't want to short anything out with my other HID bulbs. Keep in mind I would like my halogens to be a very bright light output which I suspect stage 2 does. Help would be very much appreciated! Thank you!
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 18,299
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From: By the sea, Tx
G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods
OP I quit reading your post after the 8000K comment. You do realize that light output decreases as the number gets higher after 4000 right? Your plan of 7000 and 8000 will most certainly result in rice lol.
Increasing the wattage may pose a fire hazard as the wiring is not sized correctly for that load. Stock to stock wattage bulbs.
And 8k bulbs are pretty dim. If you actually want to see the road, try 5k bulbs.
And 8k bulbs are pretty dim. If you actually want to see the road, try 5k bulbs.
Bulb wattage is a relative game. What we have here in the US is marked 55/65 watts. The Euro bulbs are marked 65/100 or even 120 watts, it's all bullshit. The draw the same wattage and give relatively the same light output. It's the way the Europeans measure wattage.
As for the 8000K, yes it will look cool (rice), but actual light thrown down range will be WAY down. These bulbs are NOT safe. Also, don't use any bulb in your Fog/High beams that is colored. Unless, like mine it only colors the fogs. If you have ever hit an animal (deer/hog/fox), you know why you need as much light as you can.
As for the 8000K, yes it will look cool (rice), but actual light thrown down range will be WAY down. These bulbs are NOT safe. Also, don't use any bulb in your Fog/High beams that is colored. Unless, like mine it only colors the fogs. If you have ever hit an animal (deer/hog/fox), you know why you need as much light as you can.
Wattage is not a draw. It is electromotive force, (voltage), multiplied by amperage draw. Ohm's law cannot be altered, European or not. One of the constants must change in order to change the result.
Assuming they aren't lies. 120watt bulbs is 10A on a 12vdc system. 55w is 4.5A. That's a pretty big difference in current that can potentially melt connectors and/or cause wiring to overheat.
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Every thing you ever wanted to know about bulbs but were afraid to ask.
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec175.shtml
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec175.shtml
^from ur link...did I miss something?
What about higher-wattage bulbs for my DOT-spec headlamps?
One word: DON'T!
If your headlamps have plastic lenses and/or plastic reflector housings, you mustn't use overwattage bulbs, as this can create serious fire hazards and cause extensive (and expensive) damage to the headlamp assemblies and wiring in short order.
Even if your headlamps use glass lenses and metal reflector housings, you still can't safely use these bulbs because the wiring in DOT-spec headlamp systems is not capable of handling the level of current these bulbs will draw. If you disregard this and do it anyhow, you create several serious fire hazards in the engine compartment and, more worrisome, in the passenger compartment at the headlamp switch. This problem could be circumvented with the installation of an extra-heavy-duty relay and heavy wiring, but the wiring is only as robust as its highest-resistance section; the 9004/HB1, 9005/HB3, 9006/HB4, and 9007/HB5 bulbs used in DOT-spec headlamp systems all have extremely small electrical contacts. Go ahead and have a look; they're really spindly! These contacts get extremely hot even under normal (45 to 65 watt) loads. They get dangerously hot under higher (80w, 100w, etc.) loads. When you go much above 65 watts, these contacts become the point of maximum resistance. Things start melting and burning, and due to the voltage drop involved with such resistance, you will not achieve any improvement in your headlamps' ability to light-up the night. No reputable bulb manufacturer makes these overwattage DOT bulbs for that reason.
The ones you may find are third-rate junk that not only will not last very long, but also are made in factories with little or no quality control and do not tend to be made to the extremely precise filament-placement specifications demanded by today's advanced headlamp designs for proper lamp performance.
Even if you could find (nonexistent) overwattage bulbs in these formats with oversized contacts and ceramic bases, make your wiring adequate to handle the extra load, and be sure your headlamps contain no plastic, you *still* would be wasting your time and money to use the overwattage bulbs, because the optics and beam pattern specified in such headlamps by the DOT does not respond to overwattage bulbs, except to cause massive dazzle to oncoming traffic and drivers in front of you via the rear view mirrors, and to cause extreme backglare in fog, rain or snow. Any way you slice it, overwattage bulbs are a bad deal all around. You'll do well to avoid them.
One word: DON'T!
If your headlamps have plastic lenses and/or plastic reflector housings, you mustn't use overwattage bulbs, as this can create serious fire hazards and cause extensive (and expensive) damage to the headlamp assemblies and wiring in short order.
Even if your headlamps use glass lenses and metal reflector housings, you still can't safely use these bulbs because the wiring in DOT-spec headlamp systems is not capable of handling the level of current these bulbs will draw. If you disregard this and do it anyhow, you create several serious fire hazards in the engine compartment and, more worrisome, in the passenger compartment at the headlamp switch. This problem could be circumvented with the installation of an extra-heavy-duty relay and heavy wiring, but the wiring is only as robust as its highest-resistance section; the 9004/HB1, 9005/HB3, 9006/HB4, and 9007/HB5 bulbs used in DOT-spec headlamp systems all have extremely small electrical contacts. Go ahead and have a look; they're really spindly! These contacts get extremely hot even under normal (45 to 65 watt) loads. They get dangerously hot under higher (80w, 100w, etc.) loads. When you go much above 65 watts, these contacts become the point of maximum resistance. Things start melting and burning, and due to the voltage drop involved with such resistance, you will not achieve any improvement in your headlamps' ability to light-up the night. No reputable bulb manufacturer makes these overwattage DOT bulbs for that reason.
The ones you may find are third-rate junk that not only will not last very long, but also are made in factories with little or no quality control and do not tend to be made to the extremely precise filament-placement specifications demanded by today's advanced headlamp designs for proper lamp performance.
Even if you could find (nonexistent) overwattage bulbs in these formats with oversized contacts and ceramic bases, make your wiring adequate to handle the extra load, and be sure your headlamps contain no plastic, you *still* would be wasting your time and money to use the overwattage bulbs, because the optics and beam pattern specified in such headlamps by the DOT does not respond to overwattage bulbs, except to cause massive dazzle to oncoming traffic and drivers in front of you via the rear view mirrors, and to cause extreme backglare in fog, rain or snow. Any way you slice it, overwattage bulbs are a bad deal all around. You'll do well to avoid them.
Have you actually measured current draw?
When i was younger, i used to always burn up wiring and headlight connectors running higher wattage ricer bulbs.