X Compression Rod questions.
#1
X Compression Rod questions.
It seems that the compression rod issue has been beat to death, but I cannot find out the specs for aftermarket providers of CR bushings!!!!
Does the G35X use a compression rod bushing which is interchangeable with the RWD sedans/coupes?
I know that the factory replacement bushings are specified as different between RWD and AWD:
(BUSH – COMPR ROD (2WD) 54570-AC70A 1 BUSH – COMPR ROD (AWD) 54570-AC71A 1)
However, I've been looking into going with Energy Suspension replacement bushings due to their ease of install and longer life/firmer handling, but cannot find out if they only make one bushing for both the RWD and AWD models. I"m also aware that the RWD vehicles use an alloy compression rod while the AWD models use an iron rod. The iron rod can rust, and one of the warnings I've seen is that once the factory bushing is removed, if there's any rust on the interior mating surface of the rod and metal bushing retainer/cusp, it is recommended to be replaced. This sounds overly-cautious to me, almost as if they're trying to prevent complete rod failure.
Does the G35X use a compression rod bushing which is interchangeable with the RWD sedans/coupes?
I know that the factory replacement bushings are specified as different between RWD and AWD:
(BUSH – COMPR ROD (2WD) 54570-AC70A 1 BUSH – COMPR ROD (AWD) 54570-AC71A 1)
However, I've been looking into going with Energy Suspension replacement bushings due to their ease of install and longer life/firmer handling, but cannot find out if they only make one bushing for both the RWD and AWD models. I"m also aware that the RWD vehicles use an alloy compression rod while the AWD models use an iron rod. The iron rod can rust, and one of the warnings I've seen is that once the factory bushing is removed, if there's any rust on the interior mating surface of the rod and metal bushing retainer/cusp, it is recommended to be replaced. This sounds overly-cautious to me, almost as if they're trying to prevent complete rod failure.
#2
Put both new Energy Suspension bushings on tonight on my AWD G.
The AWD compression rods are very different from the RWD rods, but apparently the hole for the bushings is the same size.
I just used a hacksaw to cut the retainer ring and remove it (string the blade of your hacksaw through the hole of the compression rod after you cut or burn out the rubber portion of the bushing) , then I was able to push in the ES bushings by hand and rubber mallet pretty easily.
Bottom line: Energy Suspension compression rod bushings will work on the 03-06 G35X AWD sedans.
The AWD compression rods are very different from the RWD rods, but apparently the hole for the bushings is the same size.
I just used a hacksaw to cut the retainer ring and remove it (string the blade of your hacksaw through the hole of the compression rod after you cut or burn out the rubber portion of the bushing) , then I was able to push in the ES bushings by hand and rubber mallet pretty easily.
Bottom line: Energy Suspension compression rod bushings will work on the 03-06 G35X AWD sedans.
#3
Good info! A question - how tough was it to R & R the compression rods? I bought new complete OEM rods, but haven't had time to install them just yet. And if the Energy Suspension bushings are a viable option, I might be able to save (or sell) my originals so someone could swap in a pair of those ES bushings in the future.
#4
Did you get the OEM black iron rods for the AWD? I was told the alloy silver rods that fit the RWD were also supposed to fit the AWD, but found they were too thick on the ball joint end and interfered with the front axle boot.
http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/sedan/2006/fsu.pdf - Page 15 has removal procedure. Basically, remove tire, removed nut from compression rod ball joint FIRST (this is important - if there's anything that will ruin this project for you, it will be the inability to get this nut off [personal problem]). I had to use a small pry bar to apply downward pressure to the compression rod arm into the ball joint - the end of my pry bar was carefully placed CAREFULLY against the ABS collar as that's about the only anchor point available.
Then, remove the compression rod stay nuts/bolts (there's three of them), and once the stay is removed, the bushing end of the compression rod is also free to be removed.
When you reinstall the new arm, I would suggest saving yourself some effort and just going ahead and releasing the tie rod ball joint and the upper control arm ball joints, giving you freedom to swing the spindle assembly to and fro as needed. I had to install the CR ball joint and mount the nut loosely first, then attempt to get the bushing end back on its mounting bolt; while doing this, I was jiggling the mostly-free spindle and pushing up on the compression rod bushing as well as pounding it upward with a mallet.
Once all that's back on reinstall your upper control arm ball joint and then your tie rod ball joint, tighten to spec, and you're good to go.
http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/sedan/2006/fsu.pdf - Page 15 has removal procedure. Basically, remove tire, removed nut from compression rod ball joint FIRST (this is important - if there's anything that will ruin this project for you, it will be the inability to get this nut off [personal problem]). I had to use a small pry bar to apply downward pressure to the compression rod arm into the ball joint - the end of my pry bar was carefully placed CAREFULLY against the ABS collar as that's about the only anchor point available.
Then, remove the compression rod stay nuts/bolts (there's three of them), and once the stay is removed, the bushing end of the compression rod is also free to be removed.
When you reinstall the new arm, I would suggest saving yourself some effort and just going ahead and releasing the tie rod ball joint and the upper control arm ball joints, giving you freedom to swing the spindle assembly to and fro as needed. I had to install the CR ball joint and mount the nut loosely first, then attempt to get the bushing end back on its mounting bolt; while doing this, I was jiggling the mostly-free spindle and pushing up on the compression rod bushing as well as pounding it upward with a mallet.
Once all that's back on reinstall your upper control arm ball joint and then your tie rod ball joint, tighten to spec, and you're good to go.
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