Can someone please help me figure out what this squeal could be diagnosed as? Hoping someone has had a similar experience with a solution.

Here's the background. Probably started back in September. My X has 183,000 miles on it so it's not the newest of G's!

Loud pitched squeal coming from the front of the motor, and almost always happens on cold mornings. A few days back, we had 45 degree temps here in Connecticut and no noise but this morning, it was -2 degrees and it was squealing like crazy.

Happens if the air (hot or cold) is on or not and doesn't stop if the air is on when the car is started then shut off.

I've read up on a number of posts to try and figure out what the noise is and here's what I think I've narrowed it down to.
1) Idler Pulley or Pulleys or pulley bearings
2) AC Compressor bad but if that was the case, then it would stop when the AC/air was off right?
3) Just need to change the belts and re-tighten. I don't have a tension gauge but I've seen people on the forum say less than a quarter turn to a full quarter turn of the belt and it's tight enough. Is that correct?

Anyway, here's a link to a clip of the sound.









Hoping someone can help me out. I can't afford to bring it to the dealer to fix and have changed belts before so I can most likely fix whatever the issue is on my own.

Thanks in advance!!

 

It sounds like belts, easiest way to find out is take some silicone grease and just rub a little on one of the pullies while the car is off. Crank and see if noise goes away. If it was the a/c compressor going bad it would be roaring instead of squealing. Don't use WD40 on the belts as it will only make them squeal worse in the long run. Petroleum based lubricants actually will cause rubber to deteriorate. Hope this helps bro.

 

I agree, belts. I have changed them twice on my car and it was easy ( i also have 183k). If they are in good shape, probably not, you could just tighten them.

 

Thanks for the quick responses! Going to try the silicone based grease and cross my fingers.

Glad to know AC compressor going bad is a different sound.

 

Did you have any luck with the sqealing noise? I'm having the exact same problem with mine changed the belt and its still there.

 

First off, I would like to advise to never apply any lubricant to the belts, they are to remain as clean as possible for best friction. To test if a noise is belt related, just spray some water and see if the noise goes away... If the noise is still there then the problem is bearing related and most likely it is the dummy bearing/pulley to the right of the power steering pulley. This pointless pulley can be removed and replaced with a spacer. Then you will need to run a shorter belt I believe the correct length is 6PK1145.

The best way to check this problem is to remove the belts and spin each pulley looking for signs of worn bearings. A little bit of play in the bearings is normal as they need to expand inside for heat. If it is either one of the idler pulleys, you can purchase just the bearings alone for a very small cost.

 

So i figured it out on my 05 g35x.

i just went to the idler pulley and tightened it about the same as the other belt and its been fine ever since oh and i gave it a new belt so all is good for now.

6PK1145. is wayyy to small for the g35. by the way i ordered one turned out to be half the size of the belt thats on it

 

6PK1145 is perfect if you do the pulley delete. I have a box full of them by mitsuboshi that I install weekly on vq35de motors in Zs, Gs, Ms, etc.

 

Does that work better than the 6PK1155?

I just ordered the spacer for my '04 G Coupe and am not sure if I need a 6PK1155 or 6PK1145.

There is also a 6PK1152 which is slightly shorter than the 6PK1155 by 1/10 of an inch (basically 45.4" vs the 45.5 of the other one or the 45.0 of the smaller one).

I just took some measurements using some fishing line and measuring from the spot where the current belt makes contact with the PS pulley and then measuring over and around the idler pulley and to where it makes contact with the crank pulley and it looks to be about 14.4 inches of travel. I then measured a straight shot distance between those same two spots (negating the idler pulley) and it was almost exactly 1" less (about 13.4"), which leads me to believe that the longer belt is the way to go since it would be exactly 1" shorter than the OEM belt.

I'd still feel a little safer knowing for sure ahead of time though which belts is recommended from those who have done this already.

 

i'd listen to what bythabay is suggesting as hes got tonnes of experience.

 

What he's talking about is running a shorter belt to eliminate one of the idler pulleys. It's a great mode to reduce a failure point, but if you already have the 1155 belt in hand, then that would be a direct replacement belt. If you use the shorter belt, you need to eliminate one of the idler pulleys.

You can search "G35 pulley delete" for this info.

 

OP I did the idler delete when mine started squealing to save $ it is really easy. I have a set of RDZ under drive pulleys installed too... That made finding a belt a nightmare.

If anyone needs a belt size # for a VQ with the pulley delete and under drive pulleys let me know and I can go check mine.

 

In case anyone is wondering, you can get a Dayco belt from Advance Auto, part number 5060450 (which equates to 6PK1145) and it fits on perfect with the idler pulley delete. Just did this to my G today and I really like the motor setup a lot better with that idler pulley gone. Doesn't seem very likely, but I swear it feels a little snappier too. Probably freed up 1 or 2 HP with the reduction in rotational mass, shorter belt, and less bends in the belt compared to stock.