Calling all G35 sedan owners, preferably, G35x. What mileage did you have your front or rear driveshaft go bad, if at all? Also, what mileage did you have your transmission go bad? Would love to hear from people who haven't either go bad on their sedans!

Thanks.

 

191k here and no trans or driveshaft issues 2005 g35 rwd.

 

I have an 08 G35 rwd and my driveshaft was going bad but not the worst at about 42k miles. I have to look at my records.

 

Bump

 

Bump

 

If it does go bad, also please state what part. Normally its the U-joints that go bad and that part can easily be replaced. Also people shouldn't confuse AXLE shafts with DRIVE shafts. A lot of times people confuse the terms and it makes it hard for others to figure out what did happen. Like a DRIVEshaft does not have a CV boot on it.

I have 88k on my 05x and haven't had any issues, 2 drain and fills on the AT.

 

I have a 2004 g35x and the drive shaft just very recently broke off while i was driving...cost me $800 and it was at exactly 250 000km.

Probably due to the donuts i did on the snow, but it happened without notic and while driving

 

170K on my 06x and only has to replace front pass CV axle when a boot tore. No noises, just grease all over.

 

Replaced my 5at trans in my rwd 04 at 101k. Thought bad valve body but Infiniti said replace the trans. $1,825.

 

Now over 210k, original 5at, drive shaft and axles.

 

Replaced front passenger CV axle as well, the OG boot tore and puked grease at around 107K miles. I'm not sure if it didn't last as long because I'm lowered an inch up front (I installed OEM coupe front springs).

 

Rear u joints on vq35de motors are not serviceable nor rebuildabke they fail and the 2 piece assembly must be replaced as an assembly. One of the worst designed driveshafts in history.

 

It's literally how every light duty driveshaft has been made since the early 2000's no one uses serviceable U-joints anymore except for trucks, all the manufacturers went to staked U-joints. Toyota, Mercedes, BMW, Hyundai, Ford, not sure about Chevy since I haven't worked on anything AWD of theirs lately and they stopped making RWD cars a long time ago.

Personally I haven't ever seen a u-joint fail on a 350Z/G35 though, how many miles were on your car when it finally went?

Also, the two halves of the driveshaft are separable at the carrier. The front half is a slip yoke to the transmission then bolts to the carrier bearing with a flange. The carrier bearing and rear section to the differential flange is a separate piece. They can definitely be replaced individually so don't buy the entire thing unless you have to.

 

According to very good drive line shops here in the south there are Many that are serviceable. I have had 7 shafts come through from yards with as few as 30k miles and they all have notched end ujoints both snout end and hanger bearing flange end. Most have snout rust and only the center u joint is free and not stopping / notched in the center. Also many have cracked out gaskets around the carrier. These are TRASH and so is the Dorman. I'm at a total loss but MANY people have told me these are not usable from the salvage yard as the angle forces the hanger end u joint to fail. My personal unit has 200k and almost 1 inch of play in he ujoints at both ends and a TON of seat vibration from the bad joints / shaft


r

 

245k miles front drive-shaft broke at the u-joint = loud clucking and clanking got worse the faster you drive. It caused damage to the transmission bell housing. So even though it still drives, I recommend slowing down and get it fixed ASAP, or you'll likely damage the brake or steering lines that it was/is sitting on top of and whatever else it will bang into. (I was quoted $500 for the repair, not including the transmission housing.)
Transmissions going strong as far as I can tell. Exhaust is coming/rusting apart at the joints.