So if I'm going 60+ mph, and I hit the brakes, I am getting a vibration. I've rotated the tires and its still present. What should I be looking at? i don't have the $ to just throw parts at it, but have the know how to replace the correct parts.

No vibrations below 60mph. and I don't notice a vibration until I apply the brakes.

 

Warped rotors man.
Take rotors off, take them to oreilys and get them turned

 

If there is enough "meat" left on the rotors to machine them, that will fix the problem. While your at it, might as well change the pads.

 

Pads and rotors are OEM and less than a year old, put on brand new at the dealer before I bought it. Less than 8K miles on them. pretty light driving...

 

The OEM Rotor/Pad combo is notorious for "Warping" even under light conditions. I managed to warp 2 sets before changing to OEM pads with Centric premium (blank) rotors and not having the issue ever again.

Warping isn't physically warping the rotors, or improper lug torque, but when you generate some heat in the rotor and come to a stop and some of the brake pad material fuses to the surface of the rotor. Usually a couple good 60-0 stops warps the OEM rotors.

I've autocrossed my Mustang, boiled paint off the calipers and rotors and had the brakes smoking and those brakes never vibrated. But my G35 would warp rotors just backing out of the driveway.


There are techniques to "unwarp" the rotors with some hard braking and rebedding, but they are a Pain to do on city streets. Since they are new, take them off, drive to a shop that will turned them and have them cut. Rebed your original pads in, and then take care to never stop with your foot on the pedal after a long stop. Either shift to park, or stop short so you can slowly creep up slightly sweeping over the rotor not letting the pads sit for long. No idea if these methods work, but worth a try.

 

Factory rotors have a reputation for not being the best quality and then you have the that installed them with a impact gun staying on each lug nut while he talked to his g/f on the cel over tightening them. Rotors s/b installed using a torque wrench set at 80 psi...nothing else! If they're that new with few miles they can be turned! Issue w/b next time you need brakes you may have to replace the rotors thanks to the stealership!
Gary

 

Similar thread from last month (with all the same veteran members replying, haha):
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...ed-rotors.html

If the dealership will turn the rotors for you, I'd go that route first. If not, it will cost $20/rotor to have them turned on a lathe by a shop if you remove the rotor yourself. Personally, I wouldn't spend that money making an already crappy rotor even thinner. A new Centric blank rotor costs $57 new from Amazon, that's what I would get if the dealership wouldn't turn the rotors for free.

 

Something else you can try that's cheap, get a small sander with some 180 grit and give both sides a good scrubbing. If your rotors are straight (borrow a "run out" gauge from someone to check) and its just imbedded pad material, you just might save a wad of cash.

See this "White Paper" from StopTech:

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

 

Pretty good read there

 

well I replaced the rotors today (I know its been forever) totally different car.

I had to do a brake job on my other car, so it didn't cost much of anything to add 2 rotors to my rock auto order.