And that's what im wondering, the 'new' larger ground from the battery to body makes sense, the new larger ground path from the front engine cluster to body makes sense, and a ground from tranny directly to a new body mount makes sense.

I mean, the throttle sensor is what 12v almost no amps? the the maf is 12volts and no real amps, so the driver side seems fine for the gauge of wire it has (20? gauge). the front cluster of grounds does look like it *might* benefit from a better path to ground and that ground not be the bloc, there are 7 grounds linked there...and since were feeding 35k volts to the sparks it makes a little more sense for maybe noise ?? ... dunno. if I had a oscilloscope and the patience it might be a good test.

the tranny wire is my big curiosity. its in a weird place, its very long. so I and thinking for the tranny portion a 7,8 gauge new lead to ground would be ideal there, it moves around a bit and might be flexing the old 20-gauge wire a bit. I may dual path it to the advertised mount point, and to a much closer under body mount point (i may have to make one) I am not sure yet.

But since its only a few $ more to make the kit as described... in going ***** deep and see what happens. maybe when feeling adventurous I will unlink a few points and test the results.

 

But those sensors have their own grounds, and are using copper wires for those grounds. So I don't feel these are needed.

One of these days, i'll just upgrade my engine block ground and add a trans ground. I'd bet with these two wires alone, you might feel "something". And i'm only speculating that based on how poor the OEM engine block ground looks. IIRC, it bolts to an accessory bracket, and not the block directly.

 

I haven't traced the leads from the sensors myself .. good to know.

 

well I am a cautious poster. I like to test and test before I call anything out good or bad... but doing the TPS, CTP, and IAL woke up my G.

still need another day or so for another few cold to warm duty cycles... but it's a huge throttle difference. 0.0.

Hopefully today I will have the time to get the ground kit built and installed. i need to find someone with a lift though. I can't get to the tranny. which is the #1 thing I want to mod before the drag strip (PIR) on august 1st

 

With this ground kit and intake from other thread, you should easily be running low 10 second 1/4 mile passes at the track.

 

^ I know right?

As long as it no longer takes 900ms to a full second to manual shift the auto I will call it good.

well see if the urban myth about the radio comes true. I have a pretty decent audio meter somewhere. will have to test. fidelity...

 

well $%^& me running. It does make a difference. I have NOT done the tranny point but I now have optimism.

I did my own kit based on screenshots of the kinetics kit for my 2006 and its doing something good.

-Cabin lights are bright as hell.
-the stereo does not sound nay different .. but it no longer 'lags' with the steering wheel buttons
-and the biggest difference is the windows. they roll up much faster and the moon roof closes and opens much faster which I found odd. but fun..

now I need to borrow a floor jack to do the tranny to body ground. test that out.

FYI I did not have to futz with a reset or idle air relearn..

 

From the last couple of posts i've read with you in it it seems your the only troll here.....

 

^Sometimes. But people do often exaggerate their "butt dyno" experiences on here.

maxxcool: Good to know. I've installed different variations of kits over the years and honestly have never noticed anything, then again I wasn't looking for those specifically. I'll have to test mine and see if I get the same results.

 

sigh. Can't get to the tranny point. need a bigger floor jack... maybe I can rent one.

 

just got a G35 and it have some rust spots --- should I clean all the contact points before installing the grounding kit? What will you use to clean it?

BTW -- should I buy need bolts to replace the old ones?

 

Two different solutions.. both a fair amount of delicate work.

you will need a
--CORDED power drill
--a wire wheel drill bit (small) https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/i...fVgy-weHdLVjcv
-10 mill socket
-3 inch or 5 inch socket extender
-socket wrench
-stove paint, or acrylic paint

you will need to VERY gently unscrew the negative grounding points. GENTLY move the oem wires out of the way. I say gently because moving them to much or bending them can introduce breaks in the wire.

then use the powerdrill to buff off and strip the rusted parts to the steel. ( I am assuming you mean the rust is on the body, not the block)

then using a new bolt fasten it all back in with the wire kit on the BOTTOM of the OEM negative terminal ends.

once fastened on, apply a thin small coat of paint... or some kind of heat resistant sealant of your choice.

that's my 2c worth of internet advise.

 

thanks - how about if the rust are places in the engine bay

 

Ok, got some big rhino ramps and placed them on the lip of my curb in front of my house, and dove onto those. had about 2-2.25 ft clearance for my fat *** under the car without fear of crushing death.

Installed the tranny cable. but not to the bracket which in "theory" would be less effective than the transmission housing. I found a unused full drilled hole on the driver side lower edge of the tranny casing. fitted a stainless steel and bolt into it and attached there.. I also opted to not attach the ground to the engine bay which is chalk full of other grounds and 'noise'.. I grounded it to the frame that is like 8 inches away. less travel, less impedance, less interference from other noise in the bay.

KIT done, added battery to ground, #1 front ground cluster to new separate ground, #2 front engine ground cluster to separate new ground, left manifold to ground, right manifold to right block to ground (strut), and finally trans case to body ground 8 inches away.

Full results
Radio................no effect, but then I did NOT do a alternator ground. This was not the experiment, i -0- doubt alt to ground WOULD affect (help) the shitty stock radio.
Idle...................no effect, honestly the ilde air relearn had the only noticeable effect on that. which I did BEFORE, and then AFTER the kit to see the delta.. (difference)
Shifting..............in fully auto, no effect
shifting..............in manumatic, BIG difference. upshift from 1>2 2>3 WERE 100% crisper and the uptake is snappy. 3>4>5 still feels like punching marshmallows
window speed....faster rolling up, by at least 20%, maybe 25... unexpected result.
interior lights......brighter, also unexpected...
speed..(racing)...0% as expected. even with the crisper upshifts, the slow ''rev shifting'' in maunmatic-mode makes leaving it in ''full auto'' faster as I raced and tested at PIR drag night.
downshifting......faster downshifts. but really ... its like 20% and appreciably not real improvement. but it does highlight that 2003-2007 vq35de autos were not really tuned all that well.

overall result.. if you build one yourself, have access to a lift for free it's a decent fun project for 40$. it is in no way worth 100$ in my internet 2c grain of salt opinion.


--after thoughts--
don't go full copper on the connectors. no point. EVERY single thing your attaching too is aluminum or stainless steel. going full copper an everything *but* the alternator is just a waste imo since were attaching to every other metal BUT copper. after several weeks I see no burnt ends, and see no real corrosion issues. I will likely paint them over to seal them anyways.

just doing the battery, front engine clusters #1 and #2 to separate grounds seem to have the most effect on electronics. since all the sensors are insulated, and go to ECU ground I did not expect or see any difference in sensor behavior. *IF* I am brave , someday I may take a look at the ECU grounds.. but getting brighter interior lights and window-up speed was 'neat' but hardly earth shattering.

the tranny ground did surprise me, and I am still baffled by this one. the TCU does NOT ground to the tranny housing. yet adding the cable DID make a difference. just weird.

In the end I am willing to bet that a new battery ground away from the engine bay + a tranny ground to chassis ground 8 inches away would yield the same results. in a few weeks I will be racing again and will unhook all but the tranny and the battery mod and see whats up.

NOW, grain of salt .. you may see a different result.. why? maybe your grounds are in worse shape. corrosion, breaks in the wires on the oem ground may be addressed and have 'greater results' than most will see. my cars grounds are really good looking and I may not be the best test case to base the full value upon.

 

sealed all attached points with white stove paint, then glossy white enamel. just painted the tranny point black... no point in pretty there.