04 G35 Coupe 6 speed handbrake.
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04 G35 Coupe 6 speed handbrake.
Hey guys. I recently got an 04 G35 coupe 6 speed with 63k miles. 😊😀 it runs great with a new clutch. The only problem is with the hand brake. My driveway is slanted uphill. The hand brake works fine on a straight flat surface but when I pull into my drive, it doesn't work. The rotors seem fine and the pads are still in good condition. I brake fine while driving. I have to put it into 1st and cut the car off. This is my first manual as well. I've tried searching the forum but couldn't find anything. 😕
You can tighten the handbrake cable by removing the rear wheel. I've copied the text from another forum..:
I had to do exactly that recently after changing all the brakes. It's not too bad even for a first timer.
Just take off the wheel, and put one lug nut back onto the stud to hold the rotor. With the car in Neutral and parking brake off (take all safety precautions obviously, but this way you can do just one side at a time), rotate the adjuster hole to the top. The first picture gives you an idea what you're looking for and what you'll need to do.
Then study the 2nd picture and the words next to it for a little bit. Peek through that hole with a flash light to determine which direction (up or down from your perspective) you need to turn that star adjuster. (I'm sorry I can't remember which direction to turn for each side.) Without a clear view and the ability to use your fingers, it takes a bit patience to turn that thing, but it's not bad. I think I turned 5 or 6 clicks (don't quote me on that, I slipped on the teeth multiple times and could have mis-counted easily. You will figure out how much by yourself.
The way I can tell it's about right is when I try to turn that rotor with my hand, I get some resistance. I actually used a torque wrench to turn that lug nut and got about 15lb-ft of torque when the rotor starts rotating. Again, I'm not sure if that's a spec or if I should have done that. (I was a little afraid that torquing the lug nut right on the rotor may not be a good thing, but I did it.)
Anyway, when I'm done, it took 6 or 7 clicks at the handle to generate enough force to hold my car on my driveway (a little steep). When the handle is down, the car rolls down a very slight slope easily. And it feels just like when it's new.
Sorry, couldn't get the pictures to load. But you'll see what he's talking about when your wheel is off.
I had to do exactly that recently after changing all the brakes. It's not too bad even for a first timer.
Just take off the wheel, and put one lug nut back onto the stud to hold the rotor. With the car in Neutral and parking brake off (take all safety precautions obviously, but this way you can do just one side at a time), rotate the adjuster hole to the top. The first picture gives you an idea what you're looking for and what you'll need to do.
Then study the 2nd picture and the words next to it for a little bit. Peek through that hole with a flash light to determine which direction (up or down from your perspective) you need to turn that star adjuster. (I'm sorry I can't remember which direction to turn for each side.) Without a clear view and the ability to use your fingers, it takes a bit patience to turn that thing, but it's not bad. I think I turned 5 or 6 clicks (don't quote me on that, I slipped on the teeth multiple times and could have mis-counted easily. You will figure out how much by yourself.
The way I can tell it's about right is when I try to turn that rotor with my hand, I get some resistance. I actually used a torque wrench to turn that lug nut and got about 15lb-ft of torque when the rotor starts rotating. Again, I'm not sure if that's a spec or if I should have done that. (I was a little afraid that torquing the lug nut right on the rotor may not be a good thing, but I did it.)
Anyway, when I'm done, it took 6 or 7 clicks at the handle to generate enough force to hold my car on my driveway (a little steep). When the handle is down, the car rolls down a very slight slope easily. And it feels just like when it's new.
Sorry, couldn't get the pictures to load. But you'll see what he's talking about when your wheel is off.
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You can tighten the handbrake cable by removing the rear wheel. I've copied the text from another forum..:
I had to do exactly that recently after changing all the brakes. It's not too bad even for a first timer.
Just take off the wheel, and put one lug nut back onto the stud to hold the rotor. With the car in Neutral and parking brake off (take all safety precautions obviously, but this way you can do just one side at a time), rotate the adjuster hole to the top. The first picture gives you an idea what you're looking for and what you'll need to do.
Then study the 2nd picture and the words next to it for a little bit. Peek through that hole with a flash light to determine which direction (up or down from your perspective) you need to turn that star adjuster. (I'm sorry I can't remember which direction to turn for each side.) Without a clear view and the ability to use your fingers, it takes a bit patience to turn that thing, but it's not bad. I think I turned 5 or 6 clicks (don't quote me on that, I slipped on the teeth multiple times and could have mis-counted easily. You will figure out how much by yourself.
The way I can tell it's about right is when I try to turn that rotor with my hand, I get some resistance. I actually used a torque wrench to turn that lug nut and got about 15lb-ft of torque when the rotor starts rotating. Again, I'm not sure if that's a spec or if I should have done that. (I was a little afraid that torquing the lug nut right on the rotor may not be a good thing, but I did it.)
Anyway, when I'm done, it took 6 or 7 clicks at the handle to generate enough force to hold my car on my driveway (a little steep). When the handle is down, the car rolls down a very slight slope easily. And it feels just like when it's new.
Sorry, couldn't get the pictures to load. But you'll see what he's talking about when your wheel is off.
I had to do exactly that recently after changing all the brakes. It's not too bad even for a first timer.
Just take off the wheel, and put one lug nut back onto the stud to hold the rotor. With the car in Neutral and parking brake off (take all safety precautions obviously, but this way you can do just one side at a time), rotate the adjuster hole to the top. The first picture gives you an idea what you're looking for and what you'll need to do.
Then study the 2nd picture and the words next to it for a little bit. Peek through that hole with a flash light to determine which direction (up or down from your perspective) you need to turn that star adjuster. (I'm sorry I can't remember which direction to turn for each side.) Without a clear view and the ability to use your fingers, it takes a bit patience to turn that thing, but it's not bad. I think I turned 5 or 6 clicks (don't quote me on that, I slipped on the teeth multiple times and could have mis-counted easily. You will figure out how much by yourself.
The way I can tell it's about right is when I try to turn that rotor with my hand, I get some resistance. I actually used a torque wrench to turn that lug nut and got about 15lb-ft of torque when the rotor starts rotating. Again, I'm not sure if that's a spec or if I should have done that. (I was a little afraid that torquing the lug nut right on the rotor may not be a good thing, but I did it.)
Anyway, when I'm done, it took 6 or 7 clicks at the handle to generate enough force to hold my car on my driveway (a little steep). When the handle is down, the car rolls down a very slight slope easily. And it feels just like when it's new.
Sorry, couldn't get the pictures to load. But you'll see what he's talking about when your wheel is off.
For the question it doesn't matter. Same braking system between same year coupe and sedan.
OP, just FYI, the rear brake system uses an internal drum brake in the rear. If you take the rear rotor off, there are two drum shoes inside. Nissan has gone rear drums for a parking brake on a lot of their model, so your normal service brake has no effect on it.
You need to adjust the rear drums. Here's how to do it.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Coupe/2004/pb.pdf
OP, just FYI, the rear brake system uses an internal drum brake in the rear. If you take the rear rotor off, there are two drum shoes inside. Nissan has gone rear drums for a parking brake on a lot of their model, so your normal service brake has no effect on it.
You need to adjust the rear drums. Here's how to do it.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Coupe/2004/pb.pdf
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