+1 Eibach Pro-Kit

 

Shocks and camber kit you would recommend to go with the springs?

 

Would still need toe bolts, spacers, camber kits front/back to make it right. I have eibach pro-kit and a lifetime alignment; i put everything together piece by piece and got an alignment between all installs. All adjustable parts are necessary with even the most modest of drops.

Again, if you want a POS that runs thru tires and handles with shitty steering, then by all means, fukc yer **** up. If you want an outstanding ride with outstanding handling tho, you need the whole package.

 

Yeah I do want to do it properly. I made sure to specify. Can you lead me in the right direction for the things you just mentioned, and shocks/struts?

 

I absolutely can. What's your budget? We can do this long term or short term depending on how much you wanna spend. You gotta tell me what you wanna do tho. If you wanna gather parts and do it all at once, that'll save you a little $$, but if you're impatient (like me), I'll let you know which parts to buy/install first and you can witness first hand how all these parts work and come together. This ave may cost you a but more (in worn tires) tho before you get it right.

Are you going strictly for looks, function or a combination that looks good and works on the street?

 

Cool thank you. Well as for budget, that's the thing, I'm not quite sure. I'd say the max I was willing to spend was 1k. Though, I was definitely hoping to do it cheaper ~$700.. As I stated it, I want to do this for as cheap as possible, but still properly, if that makes any bit of sense..

The reason I'm doing is is mainly for looks. It would certainly be nice to have add performance, however, assuming no added performance, oem quality handling, was lowest point for cheapest, yet a proper lowering, then that's what I think I would want. (Remember, as others have stated, very poor handling can be achieved through a very cheap, improper selection of parts and I do not want that".

And for your question regarding short or long term, I don't really have a strong answer for that. Because I do like the sound of saving money and just having all the parts at once, however, I don't like the sound of premature tire wear. Though, I thought the whole point of doing this "properly", was to prevent things like premature tire wear, regardless of how quickly I do the install. So I'm not quite so sure about that, but you have the answers to my first to questions which I believe are more important. But, thank you!

 

Lowering on a budget done right? Done right using Tein H-Tech springs and total camber kit so you don't eat thru tires is close to a 1K$ including alignment. With your plan to keep your car for less than 3 years maybe a better would be to spend $$ on suspension/engine maintenance...just say'in!
Gary

 

WHat he said.


Skimp out here, and long term you'll end up paying for it when you eat through sets of tires left and right.


Lowering a car "properly" requires some $$$$. Take the cheap way out and you end up paying more in the long run.

 

What's the difference between a BMW and a Porcupine?

A Porcupine has its ****** on the outside...

 

The cheapest you can lower your car for is simply the price of a GOOD set of lowering springs and, doing the job yourself. My Tanabe NF210 lowering spring cost in the $200 dollar range and labor was free. I installed them myself. I love the ride and the stance is beautiful.

 

What about aftermarket shocks and camber kit? And all the other stuff that someone else mentioned?

 

If your factory struts and rear shocks don't have over 100,000 miles on them, you should be okay. If you go with Tanabe NF210s like I did. They'll lower the front 1 inch and .6 inches in the rear (little more than a half inch). The ride will be a little firmer than stock but, your stance will look good plus you won't have to worry about bottoming out, rough roads, speed bumps and scrapping. I'm running 255 35 20's in the front and 285 30 20's in the rear and boy does my coupe look good. In stead of rolling my rear fenders I had that portion trimmed away. You can't tell unless you feel that area of my fenders. If you have over 100,000 miles on your factory struts and shocks you'll need to replace them but, not immediately. You will need an alignment especially if you have over 100,000 miles. Also check your other suspension components to make sure all joints are in good working order.

 

So, that budget is doable, but ONLY if you're doing your own work; are you?

If you aren't doing your own work your budget is impossible. Just changing springs (if you're paying someone) would cost you $1200. If you're doing your own work, I'll tell you exactly what to look for and try to get you around the $700-1000 range. If not..it's really not possible in that price range, man. Just dig the stock setup.

 

Yeah I planned on doing it myself

 

Hard to help you when you don't let me know you need it. You know I'll always be there for you.