A/C isn't as cold
Do you have refrigerant gauges and such to measure the pressure in the system and fill to the recommended level?
If not, have an A/C shop or dealer do it.
Or just do what everyone else does and buy a can and throw it in the system and hope the A/C keeps going until you get rid of the car.
If not, have an A/C shop or dealer do it.
Or just do what everyone else does and buy a can and throw it in the system and hope the A/C keeps going until you get rid of the car.
Last edited by Mustang5L5; Apr 19, 2016 at 09:52 AM.
Wel I guess that covers every option lol. I'm pretty sure I have no Leaks and was hoping I could charge the sytem my self. I really didn't want to take it to a shop or dealer.. Anyone know off hand the avg cost from a shop to check A/C
What kind of problem are you having though? Is it just not cold, low circulation, starts off cold and then gets warm?
You can try sticking one of those recharge cans into the system and see if that helps. Try to see if you can find with dye in it as well. Then put a light to it and it will show where/if there are any leaks.
Proper way is to use an AC manifold gauge set (you can get them at Harbor Freight for 50-100 bucks). Put a vacuum system (vacuum pump) to draw out the old freon, purge the system of air/moisture and then suck it back in. Shop will probably charge you 200 bucks to drain/recharge the system without counting replacing parts or freon.
If it was my car I'd try charging it with one of those cans with dye in it and see if I can find leaks. If I found a leak, I would then pay a place to drain the system (releasing it into the air is illegal and bad for the environment) and then do the repair myself. Then you would need a vacuum pump and AC manifold gauge to fill the system properly or bring it back to a place.
I fixed an AC problem on my sister's Volvo with some zip ties and chopped up pieces of RockAuto magnet, lol. He compressor clutch would engage and then turn off. It's usually shimmed and over time the shims don't give the required clearance and it will turn off when heat causes it to expand a little. I used a feeler gauge and put some zip ties and magnet pieces in certain spots to get the clutch within spec. Cost me practically nothing vs. several hundred dollars for a new compressor, clutch, or other AC work. Not a permanent fix, but been running fine for over a year now.
You can try sticking one of those recharge cans into the system and see if that helps. Try to see if you can find with dye in it as well. Then put a light to it and it will show where/if there are any leaks.
Proper way is to use an AC manifold gauge set (you can get them at Harbor Freight for 50-100 bucks). Put a vacuum system (vacuum pump) to draw out the old freon, purge the system of air/moisture and then suck it back in. Shop will probably charge you 200 bucks to drain/recharge the system without counting replacing parts or freon.
If it was my car I'd try charging it with one of those cans with dye in it and see if I can find leaks. If I found a leak, I would then pay a place to drain the system (releasing it into the air is illegal and bad for the environment) and then do the repair myself. Then you would need a vacuum pump and AC manifold gauge to fill the system properly or bring it back to a place.
I fixed an AC problem on my sister's Volvo with some zip ties and chopped up pieces of RockAuto magnet, lol. He compressor clutch would engage and then turn off. It's usually shimmed and over time the shims don't give the required clearance and it will turn off when heat causes it to expand a little. I used a feeler gauge and put some zip ties and magnet pieces in certain spots to get the clutch within spec. Cost me practically nothing vs. several hundred dollars for a new compressor, clutch, or other AC work. Not a permanent fix, but been running fine for over a year now.
Well, typically if the A/C isn't as cold, you have a refrigerant leak. The problem with leaks is that if "stuff" can leak out, then "stuff" (moisture) can get in as well.
Without gauges, you really have no idea if you are low on refrigerant, or it's something else.
You can try and add a can with a set that included a gauge, but a proper set includes high and low side gauges.
The downside to topping off, is the moisture that gets in the system will eventually damage the A/C system.
Basically it's only of those "Pay now, or pay later situations". That's why I said most people, when a car gets to 10+ years old or so, just dump the can in and cross their fingers and hope it lasts til they get rid of it.
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