I'm interested in why you would "pass on the anti-seize". It's literally just lubricant on a part of the plug that's irrelevant to it's performance. The issue is not the plug, but the threads in the head itself. As I mentioned in the previous reply, I had torqued the plugs on my Ford ranger (aluminum head and block just like the G) and torque was fine, they simply would not seat properly.

Furthermore, you NEVER assume that something "coincidentally" happened at the same time as you were performing any given job. It was working fine before, then he changed the plugs and now he's getting codes. I'm not saying it's impossible, but there's no reason to send him on a random hunt for Gremlins when he only touched a few very specific things.

 

Anti-seize very simply isn't necessary with spark plugs that come with an anti-seize coating pre-applied. For most spark plugs nowadays it's just down to preference. You can put it on or you don't and it very likely won't make much of a difference in getting it out, just like oiling the seal on a new oil filter... On the other hand, manufacturers are now saying specifically not to use it, so I imagine it could potentially cause issues when torquing them down.

Also, what is wakko saying that's assuming something "coincidentally" happened at the same time? If something was removed or fussed with in the process of installing new spark plugs, that's not coincidental.

 

I didn't mean to make it sound like something happened coincidentally and start a witch hunt. I was just trying to cover some common things which may cause some similar problems. If the OP didn't touch the TB, it isn't an issue and no need for anything else. That is why it is in the form of a question instead of a command to check this and that. I know people, and have done it myself, where I take more things off than necessary while doing a certain repair.

As for the anti-seize, it can affect the torque spec. Anti-seize on their website does mention themselves to decrease torque by about 25%. I would pass on the anti-seize, but not my decision. Everyone has their preference.

 

Manufacturers have to make instructions for stupid people. If they recommend 'not' using anti-seize, it's simply because you can easily over torque a plug when using it. That is literally the ONLY drawback. It will harm nothing. By 'recommending' it, they have simply washed their hands of anyone's foolish "hand tightening methods". This is the same reason I can't get my chain alignment shop to align my car in anyway other than within stock specs, even tho my cars suspension geometry is nothing like stock. Or why some Companies will no longer sell you tires unless they're the size that came with the car. Or how shops will make certain your tire pressure matches the door jamb before they give it back to you even if you didn't get tire work done. Companies no longer want to be blamed for people being stupid so they will not give you any opportunity to do so. I've changed plugs on many newer cars - Japanese, German and usdm - and it's simply a more pleasurable, hassle free experience when you use it. That's really just the bottom line.


What exactly are you removing or fussing with to change spark plugs? It really should just be the engine cover and loosening the wiring harness. Why on Earth would the assumption be made that anything else went wrong. Of course if you dropped a hammer on a sensor or snapped a wire then taped it back together, that would need to be investigated, but otherwise, it's just the plugs. We don't have any relevant information that would lead us to believe that anything else needs to be considered.

 

i had to take off the air intake to get to the plugs so idk maybe that's where I messed up ? I'm not sure I thought I tightened everything done good everything was connected correctly and all. Smell of gas is defiantly coming from the engine

 

So can I assume that the TB was disconnected during the removal of the intake? I've seen it mentioned many times that by disconnecting the TB, it needs to relearn the "home" position. You may need to perform the TB valve closed position learn and possibly an accelerator pedal release position learn. I'm not sure if the Idle Air Volume would have been affected by it. See post #3. https://g35driver.com/forums/faq-diy...cu-resets.html

 

That's only if the butterfly was moved with the TB still plugged in. If it's unplugged there should be no problem whether you move the butterfly or not. Only if the butterfly was messed with while it was plugged in would there be a chance of a hard start. And even then it's a slim chance. I always clean my TB without unplugging it. Only been a problem once when it took an excessively long cranking time before it started.

 

Update !!! I took it to a specialist and guess what the plugs on cylinder 4 & 6 were swapped lol so I decided to get breaks changed in stead of paying them 95$ to switch the plugs

 

Hmmm how does that happen? You don't do one at a time? Either way happy you got it running

 

You mean the coil packs? I did mention that to you previously and goes to show it doesn't hurt to triple check all things.