G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

Help! Did everything I can think of

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Old 05-17-2017, 11:44 AM
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Angry Help! Did everything I can think of

I decided to change my spark plugs a couple of days ago at 140kmiles. Had then gapped correctly put them in and got 7 codes on the CEL. I was told I needed to change the camshaft sensor on drivers side.i had changed the passenger side one about 2 months ago because it wet out. I changed that and still get code p0300 !!!

So I bought all new coil packs. Still get code p0300. I'm at a loss now. I changed my oil I was almost due at 2600 and still get the code. What can it be?! It also smells a bit like gas when I start it up but Im not sure if that's because I'm not driving it. I'm thinking fuel injectors I got cleaner for it but can I drive the car like this?? It sounds better than it did before I changed everything but I don't want to damage it. I don't want to waste another 400 on injectors if that's not the isssue.


And yes I checked for vacuum leaks
 

Last edited by Dlriousboy; 05-17-2017 at 01:28 PM.
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Old 05-17-2017, 12:06 PM
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Did you buy the same type of plugs?
I bought a slightly different type of plugs, fitted them and then got about 5 miles down the road. Once the car was hot each cylinder dropped out till it stalled.
 
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Old 05-17-2017, 12:37 PM
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Are you sure you connected up the coil pack harnesses in the correct order?

What other codes did you get also?
 
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Old 05-17-2017, 12:48 PM
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Are you sure they're torqued down? Smell of gas would tell me gas is escaping and the plug holes would be the only place it could do that. Not tightening them down all the way can throw some codes too. Most likely misfire codes, but if it's really bad yer ecu could be confused as ****.

Why would you change your coil packs and oil? That's a very strange thing to deduce.
 
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Old 05-17-2017, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ScraggleRock
Are you sure they're torqued down? Smell of gas would tell me gas is escaping and the plug holes would be the only place it could do that. Not tightening them down all the way can throw some codes too. Most likely misfire codes, but if it's really bad yer ecu could be confused as ****.

Why would you change your coil packs and oil? That's a very strange thing to deduce.
Yeah after I couldn't figure it out my uncle came and did it for me and he knows what he's doing. It's just code p0300. I read forums and that's what everyone was suggesting if it still misfired changed the could packs and I needed an oil change anyhow.
 
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Old 05-17-2017, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by coffeysm
Are you sure you connected up the coil pack harnesses in the correct order?

What other codes did you get also?
Yes. I did research for 3 days on why this is happening. I tried many things. It was codes P1111
P1136
P1122
P0113
P0011
P0223
P0123
P0300
changed the camshaft and they all went away except p0300
 
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Old 05-17-2017, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by BradMD_96
Did you buy the same type of plugs?
I bought a slightly different type of plugs, fitted them and then got about 5 miles down the road. Once the car was hot each cylinder dropped out till it stalled.
I changed them to NGK G-Power Platinum plugs
 
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Old 05-18-2017, 10:00 AM
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You mentioned that you gapped the spark plugs. I've always been told that you never gap iridium or fine-tip platinum spark plugs because they're very easy to break. If when you were gapping them, you applied any pressure to the tip of the electrode, you need to replace your spark plugs again with the correct plugs that come pre-gapped like you probably should have bought in the first place... Even a hairline fracture in the electrode will cause it to not work properly.
 
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Old 05-18-2017, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by kdude63
You mentioned that you gapped the spark plugs. I've always been told that you never gap iridium or fine-tip platinum spark plugs because they're very easy to break. If when you were gapping them, you applied any pressure to the tip of the electrode, you need to replace your spark plugs again with the correct plugs that come pre-gapped like you probably should have bought in the first place... Even a hairline fracture in the electrode will cause it to not work properly.
Someone told me it's because I had a little oil in cylinder 2 it's misfiring.
 
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Old 05-18-2017, 07:36 PM
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Well what are the codes you're getting?
 
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Old 05-18-2017, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by kdude63
Well what are the codes you're getting?
Now just P0300
 
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Old 05-18-2017, 08:24 PM
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>P0300 - Random Cylinder Misfire

Well, if it was just cylinder 2 it wouldn't be "random".
I'd suggest changing the spark plugs out for good pre-gapped plugs and seeing what happens.
 
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Old 05-19-2017, 12:27 PM
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I'm telling you, take them out, use anti-seize and try again. This happened to my old Ford ranger where I tried to put em in dry (some people tell you this is ok), and they seemed tight, but once I lubed the threads with anti-seize, the plug actually went down another 2-3 threads. If you smell gas, they aren't torqued down all the way.
 
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Old 05-19-2017, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ScraggleRock
I'm telling you, take them out, use anti-seize and try again. This happened to my old Ford ranger where I tried to put em in dry (some people tell you this is ok), and they seemed tight, but once I lubed the threads with anti-seize, the plug actually went down another 2-3 threads. If you smell gas, they aren't torqued down all the way.
I might have to do this again I did use anti seize but I'll have to try again
 
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Old 05-20-2017, 01:32 AM
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I would pass on the anti-seize. No need for it. In fact, NGK recommends not using anything on the threads, as they have what they call Trivalent plating on the plugs. Do a search on NGK 5 points to see it.

What was mentioned by kdude63 seems like a good place to start; at least inspect them. Likewise, as ScraggleRock suggested, the torque on the spark plugs is another thing to check (if I read it properly, it is 15-21 ft*lbs, if you follow service manual specs). If you bought the proper plugs for the car, they will be gapped.

What did you remove when you were changing the plugs? Did you mess with the throttle body at all? Was it disconnected from the harness during the process or butterfly valve moved? Where was the smell of gas? Under the hood or out the exhaust? It seems that we are assuming that it is from the engine bay, but we could be wrong. Maybe a sensor which was disconnected and not reconnected?
 

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