Hi all,

Just upgraded my ride to a 2005 G35X Sedan. I am the third owner at 70K miles on the odometer (just under 113K km). It was owned by an elderly couple most of its life, with the last 6K miles with a separate owner. I did a very basic tune up (oil, oil filter, engine air filter, cabin air filter, spark plugs) and am looking for some suggestions from an experienced owner on some good/essential preventative maintenance. Some of the things I already have planned are as follows:

-Engine coolant flush/fill
-Transmission fluid flush/fill
-Differential and transaxle fluid flush/fill
-Flush break lines and refill
-Change PCV valve and fuel filter
-Clean MAF sensor and throttle body
-lube all belts (one is squealing on startup/first few mins of driving, not sure yet which belt)
-Top up all other necessary fluids, including battery

When I changed the oil it was evident that the guy before me did NOT use synthetic oil; he also told me he wasn't using premium gas. Even though it was baby driven, I have a feeling the older couple didn't do much to the car when it comes to preventative maintenance which is why I want to cover all my bases.

Please note I am not looking for any advice on tweaks or modifications to the engine as I am looking to keep the car as stock as possible; I just want some input on anything else I can do to increase its performance and fuel economy to get it running as efficient as possible!

Thanks,
Bryce

 

There is almost zero difference in wear or longevity between a motor that runs conventional vs. synthetic as long as it's changed on interval so I wouldn't worry about it.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/ACM15046979/INRD-PE08067-41185P.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiA853j49PYAhUI1WMKHX7-BR8QFjABegQIEhAB&usg=AOvVaw3lHtQ9egKELvhNUVP4xkTn

That one is for a 2005 but they basically all use the same schedule, unless you have receipts to prove when work was done I would assume EVERY fluid needs flushed and just start working through the list.

 

Also, it's not "preventative maintenance", it's "scheduled routine maintenance". There's a huge difference since one is optional and one is not.

 

Good Luck Bryce, enjoy the ride!

 

Omg, Gary, what are you doing? He should absolutely clean the MAF. This can pick up really decent HP and fuel economy as well as fix idle issues. What exactly would he harm? Also, pcv valves are cheaper than carb cleaner. Why would you suggest not replacing it?


OP, your plan sounds pretty complete, the only thing I'd add is inspecting the rubber couplers on either end if the intake tube (especially the one connected to the TB). These crack and let in unmetered air and can cause idle issues. Also fuel filter is most likely unnecessary. I'd just try to find a high quality fuel system cleaner like something from Royal purple or something.

 

I noticed an incredible drop in my gas mileage recently; I was getting around 480 km to a tank in the city, now around 300 or 350 if I'm lucky. I already put through a bottle of Royal Purple Max Clean, and I got the idea for the MAF from another thread.

Thanks guys. Is there anywhere on this forum that has videos on DIY servicing?

 

MAF yes

Throttle Body no

Also inspect you differential bushings, common wear item.

Mileage is greatly affected by how much city driving you.do, these things get terrible mileage in the city.

 

I'd do an ECU reset as well. The computer learns the way you drive so if the previous owner drove like an old lady, the throttle response will be softer. Made a noticeable difference after I bought my Accord from my Dad. He mostly just drove it to and from work in heavy rush hour traffic so mostly just putting along. Throttle response and downshifts were noticeably quicker after the reset.

 

That kind of MPG drop usually points to a bad upstream O2 sensor. If you take your car to a smog shop the results can be very telling.

 

Update:

I performed all the services mentioned above, car is running like an absolute champ. Scraggle, thanks for the advice on the couplers around the throttle body. I was running lean so when I cleaned the MAF/throttle body I had a good look and sure as ****, there was a large crack right before the TB. Siliconed it shut, re-installed everything and performed the pedal re-learn/throttle position closed learning and the car ran much smoother.

The TB was disgusting, it damn near had physical blockage and the pedal response feels less "sticky".

I originally wanted to keep the G bone stock for reliability, but damn do I already want to induce her . Maybe when I'm done my degree and have a big boy job.

 

Good to hear!

Best mod you can do if you just want a WAY smoother pedal feel/little HP boost is a tune. Makes the car just feel like a much higher quality machine.

 

Absolutely, I felt the tune more than any of the mods I did. Now everything works together and my car is way more fun to drive.

 

That's the way ^. Wait until you have a disposable income it lets you buy fast things haha.

I waited .

 

I'll be getting a tune once I order and install my 5/16" plenum spacer. Also going to replace the valve cover seals in the spark plug tubes at that time (thanks cleric!)

Just got the G tinted all around yesterday, and my new summer wheels will be here this week. Pics to come

 

Good evening all,

My name is Reg and I just purchased a new(for me anyway) 2005 G35X Sedan (Automatic transmission) with just shy of 100K miles (or 160K km). The suspension feels good with no bottoming out, no noises while turning regularily lock to lock, and seemingly no real issues. The rad fluid seems brand new, as does the battery, all hoses seem in decent condition. Maintenance seemed pretty standard with regular oil changes, and all filters. I love this forum and it seems to have pretty much anything a G35 owner could need and I am super stoked to begin working on it. My questions were similar to the original poster so as opposed to starting a new thread I thought I would just add a post on this one.

Some questions:
1) Which is a better manual Haynes or Chilton?
2) When parking and turning left sharply I hear a faint clunk what would you attribute that too (I am thinking maybe rack and pinion)?
3) During the inspection I was told their is some "transmission sweat" but that it was not an issue. I am assuming he was discussing the transmission pan (I thought maybe a change and fill with new gasket)?
4) Later (about 6 months) I plan do do brakes, is there any suspension elements that would be wise to replace regardless while I am there with the car in the air?

Here is the list I am thinking of at first:
-Oil change with filter (it's coming due)
-Transmission fluid change with filter and gasket
-Differential and transaxle drain and fill (not used to havin
-Replace PCV valve (Don't have any carb cleaner and rock auto has them cheap)
- I have the sedan which I understand does have a fuel filter but it looks as those don't