So I recently picked up an 05 G35 sedan (auto), after driving for a little while, more gauges started popping up, starting with the tire pressure warning, then a little while later the airbag warning. Then soon after the service engine. None of them were on when I purchased so I assume he disconnected the battery or something before he sold it ( although none of the warnings came on for about 120 miles or so ). Either way, I went to autozone to see what codes I could get, I got two codes for P1764( Direct Clutch Solenoid Valve Function ) as well as a code for P0455 ( EV AP Control System Gross Leak Detected(includes hybrid models) ). I did do some research on the topic, however alot of the information I could find on the forums and google, seemed to have alot of confusing information. I haven't noticed many transmission problems on my side, however I should note, that I noticed a hard downshift once or twice during stoplights the other day ( downshifted when light was green and I started accelerating, heard a semi loud clunk, then had more power )and today I was going to wash it, and moved the other vehicle to the side of the driveway, so I could move mine to the middle of the driveway and had a hard time putting it in park! ( i just gave it a minute and i got it to go into park, maybe i built up strength or it moved easier, hard to say now ). Regardless, I couldn't get my washer started so i gave up with the wash for now, went to pull it into its spot and no problems at all with parking or anything. The recommended fix is to replace the Transmission Valve Body Assembly. I don't know much about mechanics necessarily, however i am pretty competent and enjoy learning.

I heard of a couple different fixes for the P1764 code from my research,
A: Moisture or dirt/debris in connectors?
B: Testing the Ohm's of the solenoid's to see if the are receiving the correct electricity? ( Gotta be honest, don't know much about electricity )
C: Replacing the solenoid (if it tests bad)
D: Replacing the valve body
E: Replacing/Rebuilding Trans

I'm not sure if those are all my options...

 

Prior to purchase did you have the vehicle checked out by your local Infiniti dealer to have them run the VIN number and give you a service history?
Was the vehicle purchased in the state that you live in or elsewhere?
There are hundreds of thousands of flood vehicles out there with washed titles just waiting for suckers looking for a cheap bargain.

Hope you paid by credit card?
Have the vehicle properly checked out and if the vehicle was misrepresented to you check with your local authorities. Write to your credit card company and request a charge back and return the vehicle.

Just my $.02

Good luck

Telcoman

 

I didn't have it brought to a dealership, I bought it in the state I live, Florida, maybe a little over an hour from where I live. It's a clean non salvaged title if that's what you're saying.
I paid cash, I don't believe in having a bank account or credit card. Tbh I don't really even believe in debt, my outlook is, if I can't afford it then I can live without

I will have my local guy take a look at it, but figured people may have more experience with this issue than me, who knows how many nissan trans he's worked on or had experience with

 

Big mistake not establishing a credit profile, paying bills on time, and creating a good FICO score.

It is going to cost you big time in the long run on many purchases.
You will most likely be unable to rent a car, rent an apartment, buy a house, or take an Uber in an emergency.

Telcoman

 

I do have a bit of credit from my auto insurance, I buy prepaid visas to pay my bills, and keep a $100 card in my wallet in case of emergencies. So I'm not totally out of luck

 

Since that's a very expensive part I recommending going to Nissan for a diagnostic to verify the valve body is bad. Essentially you're looking at nearly the cost of a used transmission, the part can be replaced in your garage if you're comfortable disassembling the bottom of the transmission. It's not really hard, just google search how to do something like a Transgo shift kit because those all involve dropping the valve body/TCM which is what you would be doing.

 

Okay, I might take it to nissan for a true diagnostic, depending on what they charge.I see the valve bodies range in price from around 350-400, assuming I'm looking at the right thing, I believe I am though. I see full new transmissions for what looks like 1200. ( again, I think)

My question I guess is, would considering a new trans be worth it? If I had these problems with it, should I expect the other things associated with the trans to malfunction? I don't know previous drivers driving habits, however the engine seems to run perfectly fine, so I wouldn't imagine he was "racing" it around more than any average person. Car only has 137K

Also, are links allowed on this site? I could show references to what I'm talking about (also could be useful for the future)

Thanks!

 

Also I heard of some oil contamination or something from, I think it was the frontier forums, could that be my problem? I was also wondering if maybe it was electrical, considering the warning lights ( airbag, SES, tire pressure)?
I mean I could check my tires and see if light goes away? But do you think I don't have my airbag?

 

If Nissan determines the culprit to be the valve body I would just replace it if this was my vehicle. The only reason I would swap the entire transmission is if I had reason to believe it was about ready to go out anyways, I have a feeling your fluid was probably never changed and led to premature valve body failure but Nissan can confirm this.

Links are allowed I believe, I link to stuff all the time.

Make sure you are looking at the correct transmission valve body, earlier G35's had a transmission with GREEN electrical harnesses and the TCM was located in the cabin of the vehicle and I don't know for certain if the valve bodies are interchangeable.

 

Sorry it took so long for a response, car was sitting for a bit, and the tire went completely flat, so I took it off and went to fix it first before taking it to the local Nissan dealership. Didn't seem to have any issues going to the tire place (other than they said they couldn't fix it as it was too dry rotted, not their fault) So I ended up taking it to the dealership, and they wanted me to replace the tire, so I just got a cheap temp. They ended up saying they were old codes? And they reset the system and it seems that everything is fine, they said they road tested for 50 miles and couldn't replicate the issue, So I immediately took it to Tire Kingdom where I got 4 new tires, they called and said that I only had 1 working tire pressure monitor (2 were broken and one was missing). So I had them replaced and I guess I was way out of alignment as well, I will be getting it back soon, So hopefully I don't run into any more issues. Also now that I can drive it around, hopefully I'll be a little more active on the forums, fingers crossed that nothing serious happens!

Also thanks for the help man! Appreciate it alot!

 

Sorry, another update! Seems I spoke too soon, went and picked my car up from the tire shop, from there I went to the local walmart so I could pick up a prepaid card to pay my bills. On the drive from walmart back home. I lost all power to the wheels when in gear. A grand 5.7 miles total from the dealership and it's already broken down. All this after like a 4 day "diagnosis" at the dealership. I have to say I'm not pleased at all with my local dealership. Will be finding another shop tomorrow. Any tips you could give on picking a reputable transmission shop in my area?

 

Well it's monday today and my local dealership agreed to a full refund, unfortunately though ended up taking it to AAMCO and they ended up saying the whole trans was bad, so I guess I'm having the trans rebuilt. Sounds expensive...

 

That will depend a lot on the quality of the local technicians but Aamco is just a transmission shop I think and usually you will get good services at a specialty shop. Unfortunately it probably won't be cheap if I had to guess I would say $3,500 -$4000 for a full rebuild. If they just swap out for a known working unit you might be able to get out of there with a $1500 to $2,000 bill.

 

If the dealer offered a full refund get the car from AAMCO and back to the dealer pronto. That's what I'd do.

 

I think you misunderstood. The dealership is the one that screwed up the repair. They are going to refund him. Now he has the dollars back to take it to a transmission specialty shop where hopefully they will know what they are doing.