Common suspension issues and weak spots
#1
#2
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Under normal use no, when you hit a wall or sidewalk even... Yes.
Normal wear items and "weak" points.
Front upper control arms, compression rod, sway bar end links.
Rear camber arms, both sets of eccentric adjustment bolts, sway bar end links.
Biggest overall suspension improvement, sway bars (if on revised springs already).
While technically not part of the suspension, the rear differential bushing is overall the weakest bushing by far and you NEED to replace it with a performance item, I prefer the Z1 Motorsports urethane replacement. It's not had to remove because it has an aluminum race. Remove your diff and muffler, use a holesaw to hog out the middle, then sawzall (carefully) two grooves in the race and then hammer/chisel that groove out and it falls out from that point.
Normal wear items and "weak" points.
Front upper control arms, compression rod, sway bar end links.
Rear camber arms, both sets of eccentric adjustment bolts, sway bar end links.
Biggest overall suspension improvement, sway bars (if on revised springs already).
While technically not part of the suspension, the rear differential bushing is overall the weakest bushing by far and you NEED to replace it with a performance item, I prefer the Z1 Motorsports urethane replacement. It's not had to remove because it has an aluminum race. Remove your diff and muffler, use a holesaw to hog out the middle, then sawzall (carefully) two grooves in the race and then hammer/chisel that groove out and it falls out from that point.
#3
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It's worth the investment to replace EVERY bushing, I also recommend wheel bearings, tie rod ends (both inner/outer). True coilovers eliminate the rear spring bucket and eccentric washer for the toe adjustment.
At 100k miles there will be a significant amount of play in the suspension while under load if you still have OEM components.
At 100k miles there will be a significant amount of play in the suspension while under load if you still have OEM components.
#4
It's worth the investment to replace EVERY bushing, I also recommend wheel bearings, tie rod ends (both inner/outer). True coilovers eliminate the rear spring bucket and eccentric washer for the toe adjustment.
At 100k miles there will be a significant amount of play in the suspension while under load if you still have OEM components.
At 100k miles there will be a significant amount of play in the suspension while under load if you still have OEM components.
Also do you know if the ball joints come out? or do you need the whole part with the ball join in it?
#5
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FUCA attached to the top of the steering knuckle, looks like a wish bone shape. That ball joint IS replaceable. The compression rod on the bottom also has a ball joint that IS NOT replaceable.
;F you plan on lowering at all or want any camber adjustment get an adjustable FUCA, the oem one has zero adjustment for camber.
;F you plan on lowering at all or want any camber adjustment get an adjustable FUCA, the oem one has zero adjustment for camber.
#6
Poping when turning and squeaky noises when coming to complete stop any help on this
Under normal use no, when you hit a wall or sidewalk even... Yes.
Normal wear items and "weak" points.
Front upper control arms, compression rod, sway bar end links.
Rear camber arms, both sets of eccentric adjustment bolts, sway bar end links.
Biggest overall suspension improvement, sway bars (if on revised springs already).
While technically not part of the suspension, the rear differential bushing is overall the weakest bushing by far and you NEED to replace it with a performance item, I prefer the Z1 Motorsports urethane replacement. It's not had to remove because it has an aluminum race. Remove your diff and muffler, use a holesaw to hog out the middle, then sawzall (carefully) two grooves in the race and then hammer/chisel that groove out and it falls out from that point.
Normal wear items and "weak" points.
Front upper control arms, compression rod, sway bar end links.
Rear camber arms, both sets of eccentric adjustment bolts, sway bar end links.
Biggest overall suspension improvement, sway bars (if on revised springs already).
While technically not part of the suspension, the rear differential bushing is overall the weakest bushing by far and you NEED to replace it with a performance item, I prefer the Z1 Motorsports urethane replacement. It's not had to remove because it has an aluminum race. Remove your diff and muffler, use a holesaw to hog out the middle, then sawzall (carefully) two grooves in the race and then hammer/chisel that groove out and it falls out from that point.
#7
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Sounds like worn out components, either troubleshoot and replace them yourself or get it in to a shop before something breaks and leaves you stuck on the road. There's quite a few pieces on this suspension compared to a budget vehicle riding on a Macpherson strut suspension so it costs quite a bit more to repair as well.
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#8
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Sounds like worn out components, either troubleshoot and replace them yourself or get it in to a shop before something breaks and leaves you stuck on the road. There's quite a few pieces on this suspension compared to a budget vehicle riding on a Macpherson strut suspension so it costs quite a bit more to repair as well.
#9
#10
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Sorry I can't really be more help than that Something you can try is open the hood and have a friend grab the strut tower brace and rock the vehicle side-to-side and up-down to try to reproduce the sound. Then you can lay on the ground and try to determine where exactly it's coming from. Try this with the tires pointed at various angles. Next, get the car on jackstands and push/pull/pry the wheels to see if you can feel any slop in the wheel bearings or ball joints, if you take a ratcheting tie-down you can anchor the steering wheel to the brake pedal (don't go apeshit crazy ratcheting it down or you can break stuff) then you can keep the wheels from wanting to turn on the power steering rack. Lastly remove the wheels and go under the vehicle to visually inspect the steering tie rods both inner and outer, look for damaged boots. Check all the bushings for cracking, pay particular attention to the FUCA, you can't see the bushings but you can grab and pull on the things to check for play.
The squeeking sound might be the struts, that's easy enough to reproduce since you can just use a service jack to lift the chassis then let it down fairly fast, don't just dump the car with the wheels off the ground but raise the chassis about 2 inches then open the service jack at a reasonable rate and let gravity do the rest. I recommend putting a shovel of sand or oil absorbent under the tires before you do this it helps the tire skid laterally across concrete and takes a little stress off it when things come back down.
The squeeking sound might be the struts, that's easy enough to reproduce since you can just use a service jack to lift the chassis then let it down fairly fast, don't just dump the car with the wheels off the ground but raise the chassis about 2 inches then open the service jack at a reasonable rate and let gravity do the rest. I recommend putting a shovel of sand or oil absorbent under the tires before you do this it helps the tire skid laterally across concrete and takes a little stress off it when things come back down.
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