My front differential grenaded on me. Only the spider gears though, or possibly the cvs, because the thing won't turn without clunking, and I busted a hole inthe bottom of the differential.

only odd part is the locking up is only felt on the right..

is removing the front diff doable?

If so, should I do a write-up?

 

Anything is doable, it's just another bolt-on component. I haven't seen a removal DIY with photos so that would be helpful for other AWD folks I'm sure.

 

A DIY would be great. If it's well constructed with pictures I'll add it to the DIY section of the forum. Looking forward to it.

 

IIRC, The engine needs to be pulled to remove the diff.

 

See picture.

should I just convert it to a RWD? Front U joint broke. Diff works, but is cracked. I think it may be the CV axles that did it in.
more to come.

 

Nahh, probably the front U-joint failed and took out the input shaft on the diff when it came apart at a bad angle. Even if the gear was walking around (thrust) it wouldn't have caused that kind of damage.

I have no idea what it would take for a RWD conversion but a few folks have done it. RWD transmission and ECU for sure, rear driveshaft and probably front hubs but those might be fine with no CV axle in them.

Personally I'm of the opinion that if you want a RWD just buy one, unless you have a LOT of personal attachment to this particular G, it's not going to be cheap or easy to convert RWD and in the end you'll probably break even just replacing the front diff on this one, selling it, and buying a RWD.

 

Convert = remove the CV axels and messed up front propellor shaft. The computer won't be able to tell it isn't there.

I didn't want this. I wanted my AWD. but as I see it, I'll just have to remove all the moving drivetrain, which I just did tonight, ahead of the transfer case.


I'll swap the differential and replace all the rest of the parts once I have a good one available, and lots of time.

I couldn't get the passenger side CV axel to unseat from the differential so I just took apart the joint instead.

Pictures to follow.

 

I gotcha, you're looking for a way to basically make the AWD transfer case function as RWD only and then just remove the front driveshaft and axle. This is will probably work although I've never tried it, probably as simple as unplugging the yaw sensor would kill the forward power transfer.

I mean it works on GT-R's and such so it can probably be done. The GTR front diff is incredible weak and can only handle about 300 lbs of torque before it exploded so the guys that are making 2k whp and such are either running 20% power transfer or simply turning the power transfer off entirely.

 

I couldn't get the passenger Cat off. It's never coming off. This car was driven through salty slush and mud all year round by previous owners.

So the prop shaft is coffin'd between the transmission and the transmission mount until I have all the replacement AWD parts. I can't complain, this restriction in removing it meant I could drive off the freeway.

JY

 

since they're clutched, the 25-30% stock torque to the front is not a fraction of total power, but just expressed that way. The g35 transfer case clutches can only transmit 75-100 ft-lbs with stock pressure from the AWD pump. it's different for the Skyline, since 50% transfer ability means "locked", so they do have to remove the torque from the front another way, like you said.

Just adding knowledge.

 

I was talking about the Nissan GTR not the Skyline R3X GT-R but yeah, same concept basically.

 

I just finished this exact job up on my 05'. The drive shaft front U joint failed and totaled the front diff, cracked the engine block and trans bellhouse. The cracked block and bellhouse was only cosmetic thank God. I had to remove the exhaust, catalytic J pipe, transmission mount, remove whats left of the drive shaft, remove motor mount and motor mount aluminum bracket (one bolt was seized in the aluminum and had to be drilled out), pull the front pass spindle and CV axle, drop the power steering rack, lift the engine about 6" to get the front carrier out. It's a pretty big job and will take 6-10 hours of work. I paid $160 shipped form my front carrier with 99k miles, $88 for the drive shaft at carpartswholesale on ebay, do not buy from other sellers because some are selling poorly machine splines that won't fit! and don't forget gear oil after assembly. While I was in mine I changed both CV axles and also replace the front brakes with 08+ HR twin piston big brakes.

 

Scumbagsleeper, Nice! I appreciate the instructions for when I do it. Can I lift the engine without disconnecting anything? Or what needs to come loose to lift it 6"?

until then, I've made a sarcophagus for the front driveshaft, cut the front cv's to keep ABS sensor (will buy new when rebuilding).

now I'll be able to let my wife drive it to work. I'll bring it to a shop to get the rusted exhaust broken free once all the parts are sourced.

JY

pictures

 

Turn wheel
Remove cap
Insert
Replace nut
Make codder pin from heavy wire

 

I also removed the AWD fuse from the driver kick well until it's fixed.