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Hello, I have a 2004 Infiniti G35X and would like to know if anyone replaced their lower steering shaft U-joint? And if there's a Diy here on the forum for replacement...Thanks
I just replaced my old rusty and busted U-Joint, It wasn't that bad of a job. My old U-Joint was so bad you couldn't drive the car, No more crazy loose steering wheel, Now time for a alignment
Mine was the opposite, I could barely turn the wheel left or right. But, as of yesterday either my trans or diff went out, so waiting to hear back a diagnosis.
Mine was the opposite, I could barely turn the wheel left or right. But, as of yesterday either my trans or diff went out, so waiting to hear back a diagnosis.
It was hard keeping the car on the road, They eventually become loose or like yours seize...Curious about your diagnosis?
What part did you use and how much was it? I found some OEM ones, but they're $100. Even 10 year old used ones seem to be in the $40-50 price range.
There's gotta be an aftermarket manufacturer who makes these new for something like $40....
Mine's fine but it looks a lot like yours on the outside and I have no undertrays so.....
What part did you use and how much was it? I found some OEM ones, but they're $100. Even 10 year old used ones seem to be in the $40-50 price range.
There's gotta be an aftermarket manufacturer who makes these new for something like $40....
Mine's fine but it looks a lot like yours on the outside and I have no undertrays so.....
I would stick with OEM I tried finding a cheap one as well, but it was difficult and when I thought I did I was sent the upper u-joint part. I ended up buying an OEM for like 100 bucks a little pricey, but worth it in the end.
It was hard keeping the car on the road, They eventually become loose or like yours seize...Curious about your diagnosis?
So am I! I'm anxiously awaiting to hear back and I am preparing for the worst. There were no trans codes, I could communicate with the TCM, and didn't hear any weird noises at all. It just stopped moving, so I am hoping it's either my diff, rear axle, or something like that. If it's my diff or the other things I might have it towed back to my home and do it in my garage over the winter. But, if it's the trans...I don't know what I will do yet.
What part did you use and how much was it? I found some OEM ones, but they're $100. Even 10 year old used ones seem to be in the $40-50 price range.
There's gotta be an aftermarket manufacturer who makes these new for something like $40....
Mine's fine but it looks a lot like yours on the outside and I have no undertrays so.....
I went to the dealer to buy the U-Joint, With taxes i paid around $167 even though i could buy it online for around $100 with free shipping. I need the part now so i paid the extra money and purchased it from the dealer, This picture is the part i purchased at the Infiniti dealer, I have no undertrays
So am I! I'm anxiously awaiting to hear back and I am preparing for the worst. There were no trans codes, I could communicate with the TCM, and didn't hear any weird noises at all. It just stopped moving, so I am hoping it's either my diff, rear axle, or something like that. If it's my diff or the other things I might have it towed back to my home and do it in my garage over the winter. But, if it's the trans...I don't know what I will do yet.
Hopefully it's something you can do yourself, I had other issues in the past and the car didn't throw codes, Let's hope for the best.
I would stick with OEM I tried finding a cheap one as well, but it was difficult and when I thought I did I was sent the upper u-joint part. I ended up buying an OEM for like 100 bucks a little pricey, but worth it in the end.
I agree...Oem all the way especially for such an important part, My U-Joint could have broke at anytime, Along with replacing the U-Joint i also replaced my inner and outer tie rod ends and used Moog parts.
Bring this from the dead, because i'm having the problem and will be replacing it.
Looks straight forward, 2 bolts and slide it off. Anyone have tips, I'm thinking unbolt one side and try to slide it off first VS since the 2 units that are being connected are pretty much fixed (rack and column)