G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

Ramps or Jacks?

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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 07:14 AM
  #16  
JustBrilliantX's Avatar
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Good Idea....I'm gonna check that out. JBX
 
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 11:02 AM
  #17  
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I did the cutout when I did my first oil change, so that was a while ago. I'm thinking that I might have cut a small portion of the diffuser metal brace that was an extension from the main portion of it that is running lenghtwise with the car. Sorry, but I can't remember it exactly now. But the bottom line is that I have enough room to reach up and change the oil filter without any problems or potential oil dripping onto the diffuser.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 04:17 PM
  #18  
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I warm up the car to operating temperature and then turn off.

I place wheel chocks in the rear, and I use a hydralic jack to lift the car from the passenger side just behind the front tire.

Then, I place one jack stand under the passenger side front frame rail, and lower the car onto this stand.

Then, I use a socket just to loosen all 14 bolts on the underpan, so that my electric phillips head screwdriver can quickly remove the bolts.

After removing the drain plug, oil filter, and oil cap, I use the jack to raise the car, remove the stand, and lower the car to level to ensure all the oil drains out (this is one of the problems with ramps).

Once fully drained, I raise the car and replace the jack stand so I can install the new oil filter and drain plug with the new crush washer, replace the underpan and lower the car.

Finally, I refill and test for leaks.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 04:26 PM
  #19  
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From: San Francisco, CA
Originally Posted by MiamiG35sedan
I warm up the car to operating temperature and then turn off.

I place wheel chocks in the rear, and I use a hydralic jack to lift the car from the passenger side just behind the front tire.

Then, I place one jack stand under the passenger side front frame rail, and lower the car onto this stand.

Then, I use a socket just to loosen all 14 bolts on the underpan, so that my electric phillips head screwdriver can quickly remove the bolts.

After removing the drain plug, oil filter, and oil cap, I use the jack to raise the car, remove the stand, and lower the car to level to ensure all the oil drains out (this is one of the problems with ramps).

Once fully drained, I raise the car and replace the jack stand so I can install the new oil filter and drain plug with the new crush washer, replace the underpan and lower the car.

Finally, I refill and test for leaks.
Does anyone ever worry about the side rails bending anymore? Seems like no one mentioned about them. In the owner's manual, it says a special adapter is needed to put on top of the jack stand before lowering the side rail down onto the stand. I don't have this special "adapter" and don't know where to get one so I just use rhino ramps. I have to raise the psi in my tires to 40 in order to clear the ramps (driveway is not totally flat across). I decided to just let the dealer take care of this for the first couple oil changes for service history documentation as well.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 06:00 PM
  #20  
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I want to use a ramp, but am concerned about the car being up on ramps and not all of the oil draining out. Is this a negligible amount that I should not worry about?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 06:27 PM
  #21  
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maybe this is a stupid question but how do you guys align the ramps and keep them from sliding when you drive the car up?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 06:29 PM
  #22  
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From: On the water at the "Jersey Shore"...Toms River
No the drain is at the rear, so it's actually better drain-wise.
 
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