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Well that's nomal because coolant expands when it's hot so that's what the reservoir is for. To catch the expanding coolant that the radiator can't hold. Once it cools down the reservoir will get lower as the radiator sucks coolant back into itself.
true, it was just looking higher than how much it usually fills up.
First off, get the OEM thermostat!!! AutoZone reviews for their thermostat should tell you how reliable aftermarket is.
FYI, the OEM's are different from 6MT vs 5AT (169* vs 177*).
Make sure you are properly bleeding the system. There is a bleeder port on the heater hose near the firewall on the passenger side.
The heater hoses are higher then the engine block, which makes them prone to getting an air pocket. I personally might add another bleed port to the front bypass hose that runs from the outlet pipe to the thermostat housing, to hopefully make bleeding the system easier.
I also have a radiator/coolant funnel that mounts onto the radiator make filing/bleeding easier.
This vid is helpful in bleeding the system:
First off, get the OEM thermostat!!! AutoZone reviews for their thermostat should tell you how reliable aftermarket is.
FYI, the OEM's are different from 6MT vs 5AT (169* vs 177*).
Make sure you are properly bleeding the system. There is a bleeder port on the heater hose near the firewall on the passenger side.
The heater hoses are higher then the engine block, which makes them prone to getting an air pocket. I personally might add another bleed port to the front bypass hose that runs from the outlet pipe to the thermostat housing, to hopefully make bleeding the system easier.
I also have a radiator/coolant funnel that mounts onto the radiator make filing/bleeding easier.
This vid is helpful in bleeding the system: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o13izIyEI4o&t=670s
Yea I had wanted to get the OEM one but my local dealership was out and I was impatient and didn't want to wait (is there a website where I can also find OEM parts?) So I started looking at Aftermarket. Of course Advance was sold out so read the reviews on the Duralast (which had rotten reviews) and the Mahler (which I couldn't really find any bad reviews) from Autozone. Went with the intention of buying the Mahler of course it was sold out and on backorder so running out of options I went ahead with the Duralast and just prayed I'd luck out and it would actually work... a pipe-dream. Lasted me a day and a half before it went out. Yep I made sure I bled the system properly. Took a few hours but I got that done. Yea I go to Motordyme G35's page too for any work I need to do on mine. Actually wound up stripping the bleeder screw when I first tried to open it. Had to glue a permanent bit to it so I can open it from now on. I like your idea about adding a 2nd bleeder port. I might look into doing that. Might make it a lot easier to do.
I buy my OEM parts typically from Z1 motorsports or https://www.infinitipartsdeal.com/
just replaced my radiator, and I was lucky that my bleeder port didn't strip out! Z1 makes an aluminum replacement bleeder for like $22.
I don't know where you are located, but I am in SoCal, and Infiniti parts deal typically ships my orders next day, and they are based in SoCal, so usually 1 or 2 business days ground for me. Z1 is in Georgia I believe, and they can FedEx overnight parts rather quick in my experience.
I don't know where you are located, but I am in SoCal, and Infiniti parts deal typically ships my orders next day, and they are based in SoCal, so usually 1 or 2 business days ground for me. Z1 is in Georgia I believe, and they can FedEx overnight parts rather quick in my experience.
Thanka bro! Yea I'm on FL so seems like Z1 would be the quicker option to get the parts I need..
Well that's nomal because coolant expands when it's hot so that's what the reservoir is for. To catch the expanding coolant that the radiator can't hold. Once it cools down the reservoir will get lower as the radiator sucks coolant back into itself.
i have a similar problem. My g35 keeps overheating at around 65mph while it’s arlready warmed up. At idle it’s perfectly fine. I’ve already added a new tstat and I’ve bled the system. I can’t drive the car more than 5 minutes without the gauge going up and down.
Make sure your cooling system is full bled. I use a funnel that mounts to the radiator cap, it makes bleeding the system a bit easier since you have a gravity feed. You may also want to try a cooling system pressure tester. Make sure you are using an OEM thermostat, in fact you can use the 6MT one which opens lower then the stock 5AT, I got the 6MT by dumb luck ordering from Z1 since its the only OEM thermostat they stock.
Make sure your electric fans are coming on, you can check by turning the AC on/off. I run a scanguage which reads out the water temperature. My fans come on at around 202-204*F and my car runs around 175-185* on the freeway. It used to run 185-195 with the old t-stat and the fans would start running almost immediately when I got off the freeway. Now my fans only run when sitting in traffic.
