AWD ball joint removal
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,331
Likes: 62
From: Chicago
AWD ball joint removal
So I was doing my driver's side control arm. Typical inner bushing went bad, I got a new arm. Turns out sway bar end link was bad as well and my ball joint had some play. Not completely bad, the boot was still there but a little too easy to push around. The wheel had no play when I checked.
With the arm removed, i figure it was cake. Pop the snap ring off from the bottom, took a couple smacks with a 3lb hammer and nothing. I rented the ball joint press. Loaded everything up and it didn't budge. Actually the threaded rod broke off a couple of threads before ball joint pop out. It's pretty dang on in there.
I've done ball joints before, the ones all had the ball joint drop out from the bottom. So a hammer made it easy. the G35 has the ball joint coming up. A lot harder to get leverage when on floor jacks.
Without the snap ring, what is holding the ball joint in? RUST fusion again? I made sure the ball joint had room to clear the cup. And I tighten the press using an impact and then a 3ft breaker bar. I was worried, I know its an OEM unit, could it be tack welded on?
Took a peek at youtube, couldn't find an AWD video but plenty of RWD and very similar setup but I have an axle slightly in the way. They pressed them out without any issues. Since the original ball joint wasn't completely bad, I put everything back together and I might try again on the weekend or ignore until completely bad.
With the arm removed, i figure it was cake. Pop the snap ring off from the bottom, took a couple smacks with a 3lb hammer and nothing. I rented the ball joint press. Loaded everything up and it didn't budge. Actually the threaded rod broke off a couple of threads before ball joint pop out. It's pretty dang on in there.
I've done ball joints before, the ones all had the ball joint drop out from the bottom. So a hammer made it easy. the G35 has the ball joint coming up. A lot harder to get leverage when on floor jacks.
Without the snap ring, what is holding the ball joint in? RUST fusion again? I made sure the ball joint had room to clear the cup. And I tighten the press using an impact and then a 3ft breaker bar. I was worried, I know its an OEM unit, could it be tack welded on?
Took a peek at youtube, couldn't find an AWD video but plenty of RWD and very similar setup but I have an axle slightly in the way. They pressed them out without any issues. Since the original ball joint wasn't completely bad, I put everything back together and I might try again on the weekend or ignore until completely bad.
So I was doing my driver's side control arm. Typical inner bushing went bad, I got a new arm. Turns out sway bar end link was bad as well and my ball joint had some play. Not completely bad, the boot was still there but a little too easy to push around. The wheel had no play when I checked.
With the arm removed, i figure it was cake. Pop the snap ring off from the bottom, took a couple smacks with a 3lb hammer and nothing. I rented the ball joint press. Loaded everything up and it didn't budge. Actually the threaded rod broke off a couple of threads before ball joint pop out. It's pretty dang on in there.
I've done ball joints before, the ones all had the ball joint drop out from the bottom. So a hammer made it easy. the G35 has the ball joint coming up. A lot harder to get leverage when on floor jacks.
Without the snap ring, what is holding the ball joint in? RUST fusion again? I made sure the ball joint had room to clear the cup. And I tighten the press using an impact and then a 3ft breaker bar. I was worried, I know its an OEM unit, could it be tack welded on?
Took a peek at youtube, couldn't find an AWD video but plenty of RWD and very similar setup but I have an axle slightly in the way. They pressed them out without any issues. Since the original ball joint wasn't completely bad, I put everything back together and I might try again on the weekend or ignore until completely bad.
With the arm removed, i figure it was cake. Pop the snap ring off from the bottom, took a couple smacks with a 3lb hammer and nothing. I rented the ball joint press. Loaded everything up and it didn't budge. Actually the threaded rod broke off a couple of threads before ball joint pop out. It's pretty dang on in there.
I've done ball joints before, the ones all had the ball joint drop out from the bottom. So a hammer made it easy. the G35 has the ball joint coming up. A lot harder to get leverage when on floor jacks.
Without the snap ring, what is holding the ball joint in? RUST fusion again? I made sure the ball joint had room to clear the cup. And I tighten the press using an impact and then a 3ft breaker bar. I was worried, I know its an OEM unit, could it be tack welded on?
Took a peek at youtube, couldn't find an AWD video but plenty of RWD and very similar setup but I have an axle slightly in the way. They pressed them out without any issues. Since the original ball joint wasn't completely bad, I put everything back together and I might try again on the weekend or ignore until completely bad.
Saw this thread and thought of you.
Hopefully it'll help....specifically this post here
Make your life easier and just remove the whole spindle from the car. Much easier to work on a table than on your back. Also hit that C-clamp with an impact gun.
Your new ball joints should have came with the cone. If not, run to Nissan and buy new ones. If they don't come off easily, you're going to mess them up trying to remove and have to make the trip anyway. Save time and hassle and just get new ones now.
Your new ball joints should have came with the cone. If not, run to Nissan and buy new ones. If they don't come off easily, you're going to mess them up trying to remove and have to make the trip anyway. Save time and hassle and just get new ones now.
I just did both ball joints this past summer when I rebuilt the suspension. Yes, it is rust and time holding that ball joint in.
First I'd like to recommend you remove the entire spindle from the car and work on the ground, its going to make your life much easier. Spray some PB blaster around the ball joint/spindle mating edge on the bottom, and some on the top as well. You may think it wont penetrate in there but when I had mine removed it actually got about ~1cm up the side of the ball joint.
Have somebody hold the spindle as still as possible, get an impact socket (so you don't damage it) and place it against the bottom of the ball joint with the snap ring removed. Take your 3lb hammer and smack it like it was talking dirty about your momma. Make sure the socket is tight to the ball joint so it absorbs most of the impact. 3-5 smacks should be good.
THEN get the press set up. I had to cut a piece of fencing post as the press kit I rented didn't have the right sized adapters. With everything aligned perfectly (which is hard with the shape of the spindle as it is lying on the ground) use the impact wrench. Tighten it a few strokes at a time so the press setup doesn't shift.
If you find the press just isn't budging, go back to the PB blaster and get the hammer back out and start over. You'll get them out!
First I'd like to recommend you remove the entire spindle from the car and work on the ground, its going to make your life much easier. Spray some PB blaster around the ball joint/spindle mating edge on the bottom, and some on the top as well. You may think it wont penetrate in there but when I had mine removed it actually got about ~1cm up the side of the ball joint.
Have somebody hold the spindle as still as possible, get an impact socket (so you don't damage it) and place it against the bottom of the ball joint with the snap ring removed. Take your 3lb hammer and smack it like it was talking dirty about your momma. Make sure the socket is tight to the ball joint so it absorbs most of the impact. 3-5 smacks should be good.
THEN get the press set up. I had to cut a piece of fencing post as the press kit I rented didn't have the right sized adapters. With everything aligned perfectly (which is hard with the shape of the spindle as it is lying on the ground) use the impact wrench. Tighten it a few strokes at a time so the press setup doesn't shift.
If you find the press just isn't budging, go back to the PB blaster and get the hammer back out and start over. You'll get them out!
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1990 Mustang GT - 351W Lightning bored/stroked 383CI TFS heads 78mm Turbonetics huricane
It's not easy, did them on my 04' G35x. I took off the spindles and used a 20 ton press. Had to use random metal plates to get it somewhat level in the press bed. If you don't have a press you can probably take the spindles to a shop and have them pressed out and wouldn't cost too much.
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,331
Likes: 62
From: Chicago
Thanks guys. Glad to see i'm not the only struggling like. Those youtube videos of the RWD coupes in Cali make it like cake. Im here looking like a goof because i can't do it.
Few problems... I don't have a bench or vice to hold things. Don't have another person... kinda due what's going on right now.
I'm not 100% sure whats left to remove, i'm guessing upper ball joint/control arm (thats pretty new) and the compression rod joint (I'm a little worried about this one due to seeing how many people have issues). My biggest worry is being stuck with a non-movable car.
I'm going to try and heat things up. $50 for a hand torch at home depot.
Few problems... I don't have a bench or vice to hold things. Don't have another person... kinda due what's going on right now.
I'm not 100% sure whats left to remove, i'm guessing upper ball joint/control arm (thats pretty new) and the compression rod joint (I'm a little worried about this one due to seeing how many people have issues). My biggest worry is being stuck with a non-movable car.
I'm going to try and heat things up. $50 for a hand torch at home depot.
Upper ball joint is easy to remove, and there shouldn't be issues removing the ball joint on the compression rod.
Everything should come out of the spindle easy. Remove the upper ball joint and tie rod end first, then push your axle out nicely, then the compression rod, then the main lower ball joint on the control arm.
If you don't have someone to hold the spindle, set it on the ground with the wheel studs on the ground, use your foot to hold the spindle in place and smack the bottom of the ball joint like this. You'lll have to swing the hammer on a slight angle but you'll manage.
Everything should come out of the spindle easy. Remove the upper ball joint and tie rod end first, then push your axle out nicely, then the compression rod, then the main lower ball joint on the control arm.
If you don't have someone to hold the spindle, set it on the ground with the wheel studs on the ground, use your foot to hold the spindle in place and smack the bottom of the ball joint like this. You'lll have to swing the hammer on a slight angle but you'll manage.
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Last edited by born2pdl; Jan 16, 2026 at 06:41 PM. Reason: add info
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