2005 G35 Sedan and after 2nd wheel alignment in a year or so I see that the camber is not within specs

Spec state that the camber for the front should be between -83 degrees and .67 degrees

My numbers are -1.30 LEFT and -1.21 RIGHT

one option is to replace the top A-arm to a tubular kind which has the adjustments bolts. Not too bad at $187 on ebay.
thoughts on this one?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GSP-God-Spe...a03f%7Ciid%3A1


But was thinking what if I put a certain thickness washer between the a-arm and the body's mounting point, wouldn't that kick out the ball joint a bit and give me less negative camber? But how thick of a washer to get me .43 degrees towards positive?
(Strike the above...won't work....the mounting bolts are parallel to body line)

any other thoughts?

 

Those numbers don't seem too far off from what I recall being 'normal' for the G/Z. They will have a bit more aggressive alignment settings. Are you lowered? Tire wear problem?
Compression rods and inner lower control arm bushings are known to wear/fail on these cars. Yes, adjustable upper control arms up front will allow you to dial in your desired camber.

Looks like you're right at the edge of the 'minimum' value for the coupes at least:
https://g35driver.com/forums/wheels-...g35-coupe.html

 

Bone stock Sedan, and yes the wear is on the inside edge

Here are all the numbers, the TOE IN might have been the issue.

Caster Spec 7.00 - 8.50
Initial
Left 8.13
right 8.58
Final
left 8.05
right 8.60

Camber Spec -0.83 - 0.67
Initial
Left -1.14
right -1.21
final
Left -1.30
right -1.21


Toe Spec 0.00 - 0.08
Initial
left -0.97
right -0.24
Final
left 0.06
right 0.05

Total Toe In Spec 0.00 - 0.16
Initial
-1.21
Final
0.11

 

As long as toe is near 0.00, i wouldn't really care too much about -1.5 camber.

Most sporty cars will have something in the -1 to about -2.5 from the factory. BMW has even more stock.

I run -2.0 in the rear on my car to avoid rubbing tires lasted normal time frame of 30k.

 

Toe is definitely what ate your tires, that was WAAAAY out of spec.

 

Thanks...I'll skip the upper control arm aftermarket replacement.

any ideas as to what caused the toe in to go wacky from a year ago?

Last year's numbers
Caster Spec 7.00 - 8.50 (2019 values)
Initial
Left 8.08
right 8.84
Final
left 8.28
right 8.80

Camber Spec -0.83 - 0.67 (2019 values)
Initial
Left -0.99
right -1.36
final
Left -0.97
right -1.41


Toe Spec 0.00 - 0.08 (2019 values)
Initial
left -0.29
right -0.12
Final
left 0.04
right 0.03

Total Toe In Spec 0.00 - 0.16 (2019 values)
Initial
-0.41
Final
0.07

2020 toe in values
Total Toe In Spec 0.00 - 0.16
Initial
-1.21
Final
0.11

 

I've had issues with the chain tire/alignment shops (Firestone, Goodyear, Big Brand, dealerships, etc) with both my G35's and other cars. Almost always had to take the car back because the steering wheel wasn't centered and/or car had a pull left/right on the freeway. With my old Accord, Firestone said my caster was way out of spec, their tech said I had something like L/R .5*/1.5*. Next week found a local independent alignment shop off of Yelp, and his machine said I had ~3* both sides, perfect. He put the car on the rack 2 times to get the steering wheel centered. I spoke with the owner/tech afterwards, and he noted that the alignment adjustments are very very fine. He also said that not setting the cars brakes correctly on the alignment rack can throw off the alignment reading, which he suspected was the issue with Firestone.

I'd give the suspension bushings a once over, and check for play in the ball joints.

 

re: ball joints
yeah I need to raise the car up and check those...those WERE on my list of potential causes.

Knock on wood - the car runs straight and the steering wheel is centered.

I have 7 cars in my family ...I'm constantly working on a car or truck (did rear drum brakes last weekend) (did rear brakes on the G35 two weeks ago...caliper wasn't releasing on left rear) ....tiring