I have a ‘05 6mt revup(Ithink) that will not start. What ECU do I need? Where should I get it or should I send mine out? If I get a used one,can I plug in and go without reprograming? TIA

 

Only way you're not going to require programming is if you get a complete set of ECM/BCM/keys. You can swap the transponder chips from that set of keys over to your existing ones so you keep the same lock cylinders.

Are you 100% sure the fail to start isn't from some other cause like no fuel/spark, have you tested for fuel pressure and spark? Is it a NATS security lockout because the BCM "forgot" the key transponders (solid red NATS indicator light when cranking the engine).

 

Thank you!

Are you 100% sure the fail to start isn't from some other cause like no fuel/spark, have you tested for fuel pressure and spark? Is it a NATS security lockout because the BCM "forgot" the key transponders (solid red NATS indicator light when cranking the engine).[/QUOTE]
Here is what I know: I can spray starter fluid in air cleaner area and it will run .From this I assume it has spark, right? Crankshaft sensor was teplaced- no effect.
I tested the fuel pressure at the rail and had over 50 lbs. Also had a hose into a can and fuel was pumping out. From this I assume I had fuel to that point.
The key is not the original. It did work for seven years without incident. when I crank the key the red light does not come on. I had a spare made and it does cause the red light to stay on while cranking.

I am not 100% sure of anything tho. What have I missed? There are no codes now.

I appreciate your help!

 

Sounds 100% like a fuel issue if it will run on starting fluid. If it was a key issue it locks out BOTH spark and fuel.

How did you test for pressure? There is no service port on the VQ, did you add a sandwich adapter?

You can test to see if the injectors are firing by installing a noid light kit to see if the ECM is pulsing them. Personally I would backprobe the ECM to install a light just to make sure the signal is sent before tearing the plenum apart.

 

Thank you! If I can eliminate the key, In my view it is either ecm or fuel issue, right?
I checked the fuel pressure right past connection where the rubber hose goes into the fuel rail. I tried to attach a photo. I did this last fall and recently with two different loaner kits. 50 plus lbs each time. This time I also had the fuel go into a can to confirm I was getting gas.

Do you recommend a specific noid kit? I will need to access the ecu. Thanks also for this recommendation.

fuel pressure check location

I will but do not want to remove the plenum.

 

No particular kit, you will need backprobe leads and alligator clips to hook to the backprobe, the other end you can convert over to whatever is needed for the noid lights just make sure they're Nissan compatible.

Before you go tearing into that though was the car previously running? If so what EXACTLY happened when the car stopped running.

It's really odd that you can get the engine to catch on starting fluid, you have fuel pressure, but you cannot get it to start on it's own. Normally if you lose an injector or they're a bit clogged then the engine will TRY to catch or it will run but very roughly. If it's just cranking smoothly without any signs of trying to start up that's really odd.

 

Thanks for the advice on the Noid kit and for taking an interest in this problem.

The long story car purchased about 9 years ago and was used about a month before owner passed away and the keys were lost. Friends with dealer connections (techs) were able to get a key and recover the car. (This seems to point to immobilizer)
Car was used sparingly the next 7 years by my wife with little work performed on it. Ran great now has about 80k total. I took over about two years ago mostly moving in the yard. At one point I had to turn the key over to start. I bought a new key which I have put away after it turned ring red. I moved it with no issues or hesitation to it’s current spot, let it sit for (weeks, months?) then no start, no sputter, just smooth crank.
Last fall, Charged battery (not aware of wrong polarity). I did use an old test light on it (my auto instructor said this could fry the ecu?). I changed out the fuel and tested fuel pressure. Recently installed new battery and I think you know the rest. I think it is a “Rev” engine.
Thanks for listening.

 

Just throwing it out there but we can completely bypass NATS (immobilizer) with an Uprev reflash. Cheapest way to do it is ship me the ECU, I can flash it and send it back to you. Shoot me a PM if you want