Its in neutral when I turn it off. Thanks for the info MrBig, just want to make sure my VQ is not rattling irregular already

 

Followed the manual. I figured they knew more about their product than anyone, so went by the book.
Made sense to me since more than just the engine should be broken in properly like the brakes....
C.

 

Still in the break-in stage. I've been following Motoman's method since the 6th mile on the odometer. To me, the guy makes a lot of sense.

Mine does the same thing. I guess it's normal.

 

How many miles do you currently have, and how much more do you plan on breaking in? I'm eager to see the effects of this method.

 

Go easy, for the first 1200 per manual. Don't let the engine labor for a long time. Don't let the throttle plate stay in one position for too long.
My engine builder buddy told me to punch it out(not beating it) a couple of times to run the engine through it's rev range, along with using changing throttle position often. I did my first oil change at 1000 miles-

 

Bought my G in FL and drove it home to PA at 90 miles and hour. 20k and no issues.

 

i got a speeding ticket my second day.

 

should have been arrested my second day

 

Banged her like a new girl friend....various speeds and positions, proper cool down in between, no excessive/prolonged steady speed, and....,most importantly....called her in the morning...JBX (do ya think they break-in Nextel cup cars the "under 1,200 rpm" way or my way?) I wrenched/rode for Kawasaki's endurance road race team for 8 years and, trust me, it was the latter

 

I'm sure the Nextel cars get their engines rebuilt quite a bit earlier than a production, consumer car

 

Used Motoman's method. Why? Because I was told this similar method by my Lexus dealer. Told me to go easy for 1st 500mi. Then, open it up to 6k rpms, whether you hold it in 1st, or rev it in idle, to seal the piston rings.

 

I knew the Nextel reference would elicit a response.. lol. But, actually they are "broke in" prior to racing in an abreviated 'MotoMethod', as are most race engines and any motorcycle engines I've built. The changing of speed/acceration/rpm range over short periods, along with cool-down intervals are what is most important. However this is one of those topics like 'synthetic oil/gas brand/etc. that have been beat'n ta death and are only as far away as the 'search button' if ya wanna rehash all the rhetoric and multi-sided arguments. Go for it, and have a good one. It's a beautiful day for a motorcycle ride here at the Jersy shore.

 

I bought my G in San Fran and i live in San Deigo, so my break in was driving 500 miles back home at 70mph at 2800-3100rpm's. Now have 2600 on it and i push it every once in a while, fast as hell.

 

I just drove the s**t out of it. It's not mine, I am just "renting" it for about a year and a half. I just had to unload my IS300 before the new one came out so I wouldnt lose any value in it. Now that the new one is just around the corner though, getting close to say goodbye to the G

 

Hit 7 grand a few times in the first 500 miles. No problems what so ever.