looks like i was able to answer my own question regarding the grille removal...

http://www.shaunmathur.com/_images/Grill_Instructions/

 

I ran centrifuge type (brand name 'Spinner II' http://www.spinnerii.com/index.cfm/div/divID/32) oil filtration on all six of my "10 car" auto transports and it was amazing what they would pick up in only 10,000 mi. of use. These were used only in as much as I NEVER changed oil until my oil analysis came back saying TBN's were low enough to require it.....usually about 200,000 mi. But, this was an understandable situation for a high mileage/high stress trucking co..... NOT for a performance import. Regular/frequent oil changes, be it syn or old school dino, will do just fine. Pre chargers etc. are not worth the expense and space consumption, with the exception of marine applications which I use myself because of the MUCH greater load/stress put on boat engines. And besides, there's so much more room in the bilge to install and maintain these type systems. You don't see any high-line sport or touring vehicles with these installations OEM do ya? The only thing you will see happen on you up-scale performance cars is that they come with Mobil 1 installed from the factory negating the silly theory that you've gotta have X amount of miles on your car before changing over to whatever brand of Syn. you prefer. Christ.......there's hardly enough room under the hood to install things that'll actually do something beneficial to begin with. Overkillitis is an insidious disease...lol..JBX

 

I think the "bar" is the front bumper brace. The grill comes out very easy, just pop it out. There is quite a bit of room there. I got a set of air horns in there with room to spare. You could attach the components to a piece of angle iron or angle aluminum and then bolt or screw them to the bar. Good luck and be sure to post pix of your install.

 

See, that's the thing - I'm planning on putting over 700k on this vehicle. Lots of freeway driving - prolly about 50k per year. I need to keep the motor young for as long as possible without having to change the oil too often.

 

This is GREAT news to me! Did you have to drill holes in the bar? Did you remove the bar to drill the holes? Were there holes already in the bar? I have an iron angle bar (90 deg. on surface for the bypass unit, the other surface to mount to the car) that comes with the mounting kit, but I would have to drill 4 holes straight through the bar to mount it. Is the bar solid? Is the bar easily removeable and re-installable? Is it easy to drill through?

Sorry about all the questions, it's just that I don't have the vehicle yet and I'm really excited about my 6mt - and I wanna post picks of the install

 

I did not mount anything DIRECTLY to the bar. I used the old horn mounts and found a hole on the Radiator support frame for the compressor. No I dont think the bar is removeable unless you take the whole front end apart. It is the main support for the bumper. I don't know how big the filters are that you are going to mount, but there is quite a bit of room n there. The trick will be how do you change the filters?

 

The filters are very big the diameter of each is about 5 inches (perhaps more). I am planning on drilling through the bar to mount my kit...

 

Thats funny.

 

I can't help but think the dealer is going to put the WAR back into WARranty when they get aload of that.

 

That's as funny as the 8 pound comment.

 

oh sorry to digress, but im almost at 30K and im switching over to Mobil 1. =) what kind should I use? 5W-30? i think costco is the cheapest yeah?

 

Mobil 1 SuperSyn seems to be a good choice (although they have recently reformulated it and it's not as good as it used to be for extended drains), however the UOAs I've seen have shown the VQ35 motor to get the best wear rates from a thicker oil - closer to a Xw40 grade. If you check the manual, they state it is okay to use Xw30 and Xw40 oils. I plan to use Amsoil S3k HDD 5w30 after my first run of ASL 5w30, and since both are thicker (12cSt) vs the Mobil 1 (10cSt) , I believe I should get better wear rates - we'll just have to see after my first UOA. The Amsoil ASL formulation oil compares to the Mobil 1 in price and additive package, however it is on the thicker side of the 5w30 scale. The HDD is the best for extended drains (at least as I have been able to determine).

 

Are you serious? You actually plan on keeping this car 14 years? If that's the case, the motor is the least of your worries.

IMO, this filtering device is kind of a waste of money. If you're doing all highway traveling, then you can easily get away with extended oil changes (8-12K) with synthetic. Do oil analysis every once in a while to see where you sit in terms of wear so you can gauge change intervals. I've been working with VQs for about 7 years now and I can tell you these motors can go well over 300K with no internal work assuming to keep the car maintained. I believe the highest mileage VQ we ever came across on Maxima.org was a four previous owner 450K 95 Maxima and the compression tested within specs across all cylinders. I ran Mobil 1 in my 96 Maxima and the car continuely got faster and faster as the mileage increased, however my 96 only had 117K miles when I got rid of it.

Getting 700K out of a VQ is a bit of a dream because these motors aren't designed for that type of use. If this was a commercial diesel engine then I'd agree because those motors are designed for about 700K-1 million miles of service before a rebuild. Most late model gasoline engines are designed for about 250-300K miles of use.

Something I'd worry with this filtering system is that it adds additional pressure and tubing. The VQ was never designed to run such a setup nor push the additional 10 or so inches of "head". I'd be more worried about that than having to do constant oil changes.

 

Bottom line is that if this Pre-Oiler was so good every car company would have this on their car already. There has to be some catch with the system because companies like Honda and Toyota would jump on such a device if it actually delivered on that claimed performance.

 

"If you're doing all highway traveling, then you can easily get away with extended oil changes (8-12K) with synthetic." -
I agree with you, however, with this system oil change intervals are likely going to be within the 60K+ range - saving me money, reducing engine wear (which saves more money and keeps the engine like new),plus extending engine life.


"I believe the highest mileage VQ we ever came across on Maxima.org was a four previous owner 450K 95 Maxima and the compression tested within specs across all cylinders. I ran Mobil 1 in my 96 Maxima and the car continuely got faster and faster as the mileage increased, however my 96 only had 117K miles when I got rid of it. " - well i'm doing 700K or more and I'm not just doing highway driving so 450K isn't gonna been enough for my plans. And since I'm planning on keeping this for so long, I'll save money by not having to buy a new engine and not have to repair this one as much.


"Something I'd worry with this filtering system is that it adds additional pressure and tubing. The VQ was never designed to run such a setup nor push the additional 10 or so inches of "head". I'd be more worried about that than having to do constant oil changes." - From what I have researched, these systems extend engine life - and that's regardless of any negatives that may come with these systems - including any small differences in oil pressure. In many cases any oil pressure differnce is absent altogether (depending on setup). Call any oil lab and they will tell you regardless of engine type, that a bypass system will extend it's life significantly by reducing wear rates. example: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/by-pa...iltration.html