I replaced my stock pads with metal matrix pads today. It is raining, so I am not going to drive it until tomorrow.

things I noticed: You have to have a freaking 22 mm socket to change the front brakes! That is huge.

pulled off the stock pads and had only killed about 1/4 inch off the pad in 16,000 miles.

I had the rotors resurfaced: New was 0.995 thick front, @ 16k miles I have 0.95x, only 4 hundredths of an inch wear.
Rear were 0.63 new, now I have 0.61x inches, only 2 hundredths

Rotors were perfectly flat, with 0.000 inch of runout

I will keep you up to date on the amount of brake dust I see.

total cost to me: 119.00 for front and rear brake pads, and rotor resurfacing at CarQuest

took me an hour to pull all the pads and another two hours to put them all back on and clean everything.

So, 3 hrs mechanic labor (120.00) and 119.00 in parts/rotor resurfacing: means infiniti is making over 200.00 off of you's that are having them done at the dealer.

Better Life thru Chemistry

 

Gald you saved the cash and paid yourself[img]/w3timages/icons/cool.gif[/img]

03.5 Sedan/B. Silver/Prem/Winter/Aero/Tint/Rims
69 Chevelle Hard Top BB/4.11's/Posi

 

years back, i sat with a friend as he changed my brakes.

is it easy to do on the G

 

Hey 3.5... did you actually remove the rotors yourself and take them to a shop to have them turned? That would have made the job longer than if you had just swapped out the pads yourself, no?

Why'd you have the rotors resurfaced? Were you getting vibration during braking?



<font color=red>chinee</font color=red>
2003.5 G35s

 

Everytime a professional changes brake pads, they also
turn the rotors. Turning the rotors is part of the complete
brake job.

2003 Twilight Blue Sedan 5AT, sunroof, leather,
splashguards, GG red 7 wire Hypergrounding kit, 350Z intake duct, K&N filter.

 

I'm with you, if the rotors are not scored, grooved, what is the reason to cut them? just make them thiner?

Silver/Graphite/Premium/Sports/Winter

 

i cut em because I had bought the full metal pads and wanted to be absolutely sure my starting point was zero runout to compare to the stock brake performance.

also it is a habit of mine to do that

yes pulling the rotors to have them turned means having the car up on jackstands for 24 hours or until the rotors are done. they had em done in a couple hours but because of work schedule, I had to drop em off in the morning and pick em up that evening.

walkthrough of brake replacement, do one side at a time so when you forget which pad goes where you can look at one done correctly. tools: 14 mm (I think) wrench or socket and rachet, 19 mm wrench/socket, 22 mm socket, breaker bar/pipe/pvc tube, jackstands, 13/16" socket for wheel lugs, large C-Clamp

jack up car with car in gear but emergency brake OFF

remove wheels as needed

remove brake fluid reservoir covers (both)

ther are four bolts on the caliper assembly remove the two small ones (14mm IIRC). Pull off the piston assembly and support it with wire, zip tie or other item to avoid tension on the brake fluid line. Use a C-clamp to push the caliper's piston back in until they are flush. Do not put the C-clamp directly on the piston (it may slip and tear the rubber boot/seal), use a small block of wood between piston and CClamp.

remove the two big bolts holding the pad assembly to the knuckle assembly (rear 19 mm, you will need a wrench for the lower one because of lack of clearance for a socket; front 22 mm) Have a breaker bar if you are not very large (I needed one and I am 260# and a mechanic my whole life). then you can clean it and replace the pads. The left rear pads have a different clip than the right rear pads.

You can put the tops back on your reservoirs now to prevent moisture from being absorbed.

Rotor will now come off with some slight agitation to the edge with a piece of wood or rubber mallet. Pull straight out away from car. Inspect for scoring glazing etc.

Prior to reassembly, clean everything with brake cleaner and allow to dry for several minutes.

Slip the pad assembly on with the new pads on

Bolt in place. The slip the piston assembly over the pads and bolt in place.

Someone with the ESM, supply some torque if you want. I just gorilla torqued the big ones back on and used my calibrated hands for the small bolts. Then I broke out my torque wrench to put the wheel lugs on.

I recommend for the first drive, heat up the brakes often by lightly dragging the brakes with the brake and gas on lightly at 30-40 mph or so. Do several hard stops from 20-30 mph down to 5 mph or so. after several stops, keep driving the brakes until cool as they can warp. You can stop the car long enough to get out and feel the wheel. "warm" is ok, but "damn, that's HOT!" is too hot. remember some smell is normal the first few hard stops.

if the pedal gets mushy after warming up the brakes it is most likely time to bleed your brakes or change fluid due to fluid absorption or air absorption. I had to do that. ANY chilton's or Hayne's manual can tell you how to do that, doesn't have to even be an infiniti manual.

This will season the new pads and new surface of the rotor.

Better Life thru Chemistry

 

Oh yeah don't forget to put the wheels back on or take the jackstands out from under the car. Sometimes common sense isn't very common

Better Life thru Chemistry