$20 that if you dynoed on G35_TX's dyno, you'd hit same numbers within a percent or two.

 

but if u do notice, he is running pretty damn rich !
I am just guessing..since the optimum A/F ratio is ~13.1 ?
please correct me if i am wrong

 

what does the smoothing mean?? I see smoothing from 0-5 from other dyno sheets. does 5 read higher than 0?

 

All it appeared to do on mine is make the line "smooth". Even dyno's need to look good. The jump from 238 to 241 was the SAE correction.

 

I don't think so. Not the way his a/f is running.

 

I don't think his A/F was read right whether it be a problem with the "sniffer" or a calibration with the logger. There are too many on-board systems that would step in if his A/F was that rich, even at WOT. The fact that his A/F is so rich, even from the on set of the run, tells me there's a problem with the equipment and not the car. If his A/F ratio was that bad, he'd be getting seriously horrible MPGs and he'd be seeing CELs.

 

I can assure you the A/F is correct. The dyno is used extensively to tune 1000+ rwhp vipers as well as other high horsepower cars. To assume the problem is with the equipment without any knowledge of it, the use or the users seems like a uninformed guess. All cars do not identical just because they are stock. My A/F is not that bad. I've seen worse.

I've don't know what others are getting to a tank. Mine averages 275 miles per full tank of gas on premium.

Thanks.

 

That's pretty low for a full tank of gas. You must be running really rich.

 

I get 340-350 a tank when my fuel light comes on.

 

I drive 65% city 35% highway. I fill up with right around 18 gallons when my gas light comes on. That gives me roughly 16 miles per gallon. Needless to say, I have a little bit of a lead foot.....

What is everyone else getting?

 

Mother!!! What kind of driving do you do, city and/or highway?

 

the ecu should automatically adjust timing to compensate for the a/f ratio...

I think most dyno shops need to install wind tunnels (100,00 cfms maybe) to properly simulate the aerodynamic effects on air intake induction and cooling as experienced by the engine while traveling on the road...there's a bwm article somewhere talking about how the engine output power is affected by the atmospheric environment it is in...

 

I get 17/18 in 90%+ city and 23/24 in 100% highway. I'm not a terribly hard driver, but I do get on it for a short burst at least daily. Your MPGs sound fine.

As for your A/Fs, I've seen worse too, but those were on forced induced cars where the fuel pumps and inline fuel pumps did overtime duty to saturate and cool the combustion chamber to reduce detonation. I have a very hard time believing that your A/Fs are correct.

Like I said before, take it to the track and see what it runs. If it does 98mph+ in the 1/4 mile, I wouldn't worry at all.

 

About 80% city, 20% highway for work. 100 miles a day doing service calls for my company all over town.

And I do get on it to redline about 2 times a day, and with autox I never see less than 19 mpg.

 

80% of the time the TRACK will not show problems with the car. Becasue it might still run good, but then all of a sudden it could just blow up. The Dyno A/F will show a problem if the reading is correct. And if this is correct, something isn't right.

IMHO, I would reset the ECU. It might be acting a little funny.