For precisely 120 bucks with shipping, I bought two 12 square foot rolls of B Quiet Ultimate and applied it in the trunk and rear seats. Ultimate is thin and pretty light as compared to Brown Bread. This stuff rocks. I reduced 95% of the road noise in the rear seat. I never noticed how bad it was until I sat with our newborn duaghter back there, but the tire noise, especially on 30k old Turanzas is awful. I could barely hold a conversation with my wife, and she's not quiet by any means! Now I can hear her without straining and enjoy what was once a very uncomfortable ride in an otherwise wonderful rear seat. The reclining feauture is awsome too!

I put two layers of this stuff (which they say layering is a powerful noise inhibitor) on the outside fender well and a double layer on the visible part on the inside of the rear quarter panel where there is an opening and you can get to the very back of the painted panel. You have to pull out the liner, which takes 3 minutes.

For the back seats I put a minimal amount under the rear seat and it took 1 minute to remove seat bottom. I put a double layer on the driveshaft tunnel and was careful not to put any over the canister that looks like it goes into the gas tank. There is one of these white plastic "lids" with siphon holes on each side. I have a feeling these will be in play when they do the filler hose TSB.

I may buy another 12 feet and do the doors but I hate taking the panels off when nothing is rattling. The front is still not as quiet as my 01.5 passat as the a-pillar and mirrors are still a bit noisy. In the back it's a whole new world. If you have passengers back there they will appreciate it. You can barely hear passing traffic anymore where that used to roar into the back seat area. This is because the fender well is right next to you and the seat side stops where it hits the fender on the body side of the car. Best mod I've done in 2 years.

 

you should do the trunk also. it's since minimized the drone from my coupe midpipe. I still need to the rear seat. interesting that you did the driveshaft tunnel. I'll remember that when i do my rear seat.

 

That's exactly what he did.

This sounds really good though, I was a little hesitant to do this earlier because I thought it might be a lot of work, but it sounds really easy.

 

I actually did the trunk but not the rear most panel. I lined the thick cardboard insert that goes over the spare and did the floor of the trunk as well around the insert and all around the well itself. The car still drones under load at lower rpm's as it always did. It's bearable when I drive as I use the MM mode - but my wife does not and I find it to be rather intrusive. It's not a biggie tho as we usually only have back seat passengers and the baby in the SUV.

tk can you snap a pic of your trunk work or is there another thread where you discussed your install?

 

sixfive, you mind doing a DYI for us sedaners?? where should i buy this stuff at? any recommendations??? thanks beforehand! =)

 

yeah, some help in the bargain department might get me to finally stop putting this off as well. anything would be appreciated.

please no ebay references.

 

You can buy it online here: http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html

It's too easy - that is my lazy man's version is too easy for a complete DIY.

My handy work is not worthy of pictures so I didn't bother.

There are DIY's on removing the rear seat and liners in the trunk.

Quick and Dirty:

Back Seat: Its simply a little clip latch you pull on both sides to release and then pull the seat back to front carefully and firmly. I left the seat in the car and pushed it against the front seat-back. Simply outline and cut to fit the painted metal seat floor panels that are bare. Again - do not cover the plastic white lid that has the siphon hole in it. The rear seat sits on the gas tank and tha white "lid" is the tank cover and for interior access, I believe. I did a double layer on the driveshaft tunnel which has more noise conductivity.

Trunk: This is where the work and pay off come in. Take the mats and trunk lining out of the floor so all you see is the spare. Take the net latches off and find the other plastic lock tabs off that are also holding the fender lining secure. The plastic protector that covers the trunk latch and runs along the entry to the trunk overlays the lining that covers the wheel wells. The needs to be taken off or to be loosened enough to remove the fender liners. These 2 liners are the only ones that need to come out.

Once you see bare floor and fender walls in the trunk start with the fender walls and do a double layer. As mentioned, the layering effect is where this stuff pays off. Cut and apply a double layer on the inside quarter panel where there is only one panel and not the double panel framing. Put as much as you want into the spare well itself or do as I did and put the B-Quiet on the particle board that covers the spare and makes the trunk floor flat and flush. Put it all over the floor with at least a single layer.

There is some deadening material in the trunk already - just cover it up and notice how little and sproradically placed the stock insualation really is. It's bad and the needed improvement will seem more obvious.

Buy a roller from the vendor pasted above or get a heavy rubber one with a long handle (16 inches) as I did. You will need to press the adhesive on firmly with the roller. It will ease out the kinks and firmly apply the butyl based adhesive, which is like a gummy almost tar like substance. Wear gloves and don't stick this stuff where you don't want it.

Make sure you ride in the back on a bad road before and then after you install this stuff. You'll be amazed at how much more quiet hiway criusing is.

 

i'm waiting for mine in the mail. i ordered 50sq feet for $70 w/shipping. planning on doing the doors and back seats and if i have some left over, some of the floors.

 

It's quite possible I am missing something here. If you used his link the ultimate is 129.99 for 50 sq. ft. unless you buy 2 and it's still not 70 bucks.

The ultimate is not 70 either at the size. Did you buy from somewhere else?

 

sixfive - sadly i did not have the foresight to snap pictures (it's not like the work was impressive anyway. maybe i'll do so when i do the rear seat.

 

SixFive.......thanks for the write up.

As you stated...we need this!

Just placed my order

Thanks!

 

jss: The second option is 12 square feet for 54.99. I bought 2 of them. I didn't want to spend 15 bucks more for 50 feet (plus more shipping) as I don't need it all and didn't want to go overboard. Most people would probably get 50 feet for 129 or just 12 feet for 54. If there's enough interest we could call them to set up a group buy.

 

doh, now someone mentions gb. i'd consider that so i can do my door panels

 

Thanks 65. My hope was that he found it cheaper.... Thanks for the heads up on this. I plan to add this as well!!

 

While I am playing salesman of the week for B-Quiet - let me also say that if you have a louder version of the crawford plenum or want to quiet drivetrain noise as perceived from outside the car, the H-liner, which goes under the hood is great. The AL hood is a great noise conductor unfortunately. Also if you want to add longevity to the paint which will suffer from all the heating, cooling and reheating of the engine, this might help. I probably wouldn't use it sans version 4 of the Crawford Plenum but there are others more fanatical about this than I am. Theres a guy on this forum from Canada that has done many many many rolls of the the ultimate or dynamat. He's a stereophyle but be careful - this stuff is addictive and the reason I cut myself off at 24 feet.

Also

http://www.b-quiet.com/sportz.pdf

This is the DaveO article on the product that got me thinking about a non door time saver install. Notice the pics - he's got 50 feet of that stuff. I was less comprehensive with the application and left gaps here and there. 80/20 rule for me on this install. I think all the noise is from the fender wells and the quarter panels and so I did double up there.