Replaced 6 speed transmission
#1
Replaced 6 speed transmission
Well, my dilemna has come to fruition. I dropped my car off last weekend and they replaced the 6 speed.
The second gear that was crunching in the cold, well...it still feels a little notchy but certainly improved over what it was before. Hopefully it will stay in good condition.
The service order says that pieces of metal came out of the tranny when they drained it. So I wasn't crazy. However, I'm wondering why this would have been. I've been driving stick shift since I've been licensed, and have practiced double clutching on downshifts for the last 8. In other words, I baby my transmission. I don't power shift or abuse my car, well at least not the transmission.
In any case, the 06 G35X kind of grew on me. Slower, but it had a bit more torque down low. The stereo blows the 07 SOW out of the water. Other than that, I miss my girl.
CHris
The second gear that was crunching in the cold, well...it still feels a little notchy but certainly improved over what it was before. Hopefully it will stay in good condition.
The service order says that pieces of metal came out of the tranny when they drained it. So I wasn't crazy. However, I'm wondering why this would have been. I've been driving stick shift since I've been licensed, and have practiced double clutching on downshifts for the last 8. In other words, I baby my transmission. I don't power shift or abuse my car, well at least not the transmission.
In any case, the 06 G35X kind of grew on me. Slower, but it had a bit more torque down low. The stereo blows the 07 SOW out of the water. Other than that, I miss my girl.
CHris
#3
Originally Posted by CFar
In any case, the 06 G35X kind of grew on me. Slower, but it had a bit more torque down low. The stereo blows the 07 SOW out of the water.
#4
Can someone confirm this for me: double-clutching is not necessary in modern day automobiles. I used to do that in my Mazda6 (my first manual -- don't laugh). I'd shift to neutral, tap the throttle, then downshift. Then I read online and learned from friends that you can just tap the throttle when your clutch is disengaged (clutch pedal down).
#5
Originally Posted by GoofyG28
Can someone confirm this for me: double-clutching is not necessary in modern day automobiles. I used to do that in my Mazda6 (my first manual -- don't laugh). I'd shift to neutral, tap the throttle, then downshift. Then I read online and learned from friends that you can just tap the throttle when your clutch is disengaged (clutch pedal down).
#6
Double clutching isnt necessary in modern transmissions, thats what the synchros are for. Or in my case, supposed to have been for.
With that being said though, use or abuse any part and it will wear out. I'd rather use the cheaper/easier pieces to replace and hope I will never need to.
Modern clutches still work under the same principle they always have from what I know. If the clutch is fully depressed, the pressure plate should be able to slide freely on the input shaft disengaging the tranny from the engine. So in effect, blipping the throttle wouldn't do anything to the tranny, making a double clutch necessary for the smoothest, least damaging shift.
With that being said though, use or abuse any part and it will wear out. I'd rather use the cheaper/easier pieces to replace and hope I will never need to.
Modern clutches still work under the same principle they always have from what I know. If the clutch is fully depressed, the pressure plate should be able to slide freely on the input shaft disengaging the tranny from the engine. So in effect, blipping the throttle wouldn't do anything to the tranny, making a double clutch necessary for the smoothest, least damaging shift.
Last edited by CFar; 05-16-2007 at 08:06 PM.
#7
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#8
Originally Posted by GoofyG28
Can someone confirm this for me: double-clutching is not necessary in modern day automobiles. I used to do that in my Mazda6 (my first manual -- don't laugh). I'd shift to neutral, tap the throttle, then downshift. Then I read online and learned from friends that you can just tap the throttle when your clutch is disengaged (clutch pedal down).
#9
Wow! Transmission replacement already??! Mine felt a little notchy in the beginning but nothing out of the ordinary 'new car' break in stuff. Buttery smoothe now with about 4k miles on the clock.
Wonder if you got some kind of rare defective one. Please keep us posted on this. Could be a possible problem that many more of us may come across later.
Wonder if you got some kind of rare defective one. Please keep us posted on this. Could be a possible problem that many more of us may come across later.
#10
#11
#12
have you tried using redline MTL tranny fluid?
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_g...p?categoryID=7
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_g...p?categoryID=7
#13
Originally Posted by AlterZgo
What you're describing isn't double clutching. It's rev matching. Double clutching isn't necessary, but rev matching on downshifts is always good.
Normal shifting in car with synchros --> clutch-in, move shifter down to next gear or deired lower gear, ease the clutch out.
Double clutching, can be done in a car with or without synchros --> Clutch in, move shifter to neutral, clutch-out, match revs to desired level based on lower gear your going to go into, clutch-in, move to desired lower gear, clutch out. (2 clutch ins, hence the doble clutch)
While doing this in cars with synchros isn't necessary, as has been stated, it can also be used when wanting to downshift while in bad driving conditions (slippery roads). By double clutching it makes the transition smooth, as opposed to being relativly jerky by letting the synchros handle the rev match.
#14
Originally Posted by Bigred14
umm, it is double clutching.
Normal shifting in car with synchros --> clutch-in, move shifter down to next gear or deired lower gear, ease the clutch out.
Double clutching, can be done in a car with or without synchros --> Clutch in, move shifter to neutral, clutch-out, match revs to desired level based on lower gear your going to go into, clutch-in, move to desired lower gear, clutch out. (2 clutch ins, hence the doble clutch)
While doing this in cars with synchros isn't necessary, as has been stated, it can also be used when wanting to downshift while in bad driving conditions (slippery roads). By double clutching it makes the transition smooth, as opposed to being relativly jerky by letting the synchros handle the rev match.
Normal shifting in car with synchros --> clutch-in, move shifter down to next gear or deired lower gear, ease the clutch out.
Double clutching, can be done in a car with or without synchros --> Clutch in, move shifter to neutral, clutch-out, match revs to desired level based on lower gear your going to go into, clutch-in, move to desired lower gear, clutch out. (2 clutch ins, hence the doble clutch)
While doing this in cars with synchros isn't necessary, as has been stated, it can also be used when wanting to downshift while in bad driving conditions (slippery roads). By double clutching it makes the transition smooth, as opposed to being relativly jerky by letting the synchros handle the rev match.
In both cases, I'm rev-matching. The only difference is, in double clutching, I go to neutral and let the clutch out (pedal up). I find, however, that I can do a better job of rev-matching when double clutching, versus regular down-shifting when I blip the throttle without going to neutral first. The downside is, it takes too long.
#15
Originally Posted by GoofyG28
The only difference is, in double clutching, I go to neutral and let the clutch out (pedal up). I find, however, that I can do a better job of rev-matching when double clutching, versus regular down-shifting when I blip the throttle without going to neutral first.
engaging the clutch (releasing the pedal) connects the input shaft of the tranny to the motor, allowing you to use the motor to spin up the half of the tranny that is freewheeling, and then sync it with the other half that is connected to the wheels.