From the replies, maybe this is a 6MT thing (although a few X's also posted)? I tried to reproduce this in my car tonight, didn't happen - from whatever rpm start, no hesitation when I floor it.

 

I experimented with this procedure today and it made a significant improvement. If you put the heel of your foot right up against the bottom of the accelerator and kind of push with your whole foot, the hesitation is minimized and almost totally eliminated.

For those of you having this problem, try this and provide feedback if it helped eliminate the hesitation.

 

I've seen this problem on my '07 6MT as well. It occurs mainly when I'm in traffic and see an opening and lay on the gas. I'm not necessarily flooring it, but I do push to a spot and hold it there. The car acts similar to an automatic that is downshifting in order to accelerate. I suspected that it must be a drive-by wire issue, where the computer is taking a split second to decide whether I want to accelerate hard or accelerate really hard. I haven't been into the dealership yet either, but I'll be sure to bring it up to them when I do go. If anyone else finds a solution before that, please let me know.

BTW, I've tried positioning my feet differently but that really doesn't seem to have any effect, though I think putting my heel up against the pedal will keep me from wearing a hole in the floor mat over time.

 

i have noticed the same thing on my 07 6MT sedan. it seems like the issue pops up when i go from 10% throttle to 50% or more thorttle. no issue when i am already accelerating hard.

one solution: i pretend my twin turbos just kicked in.

 

Same here, no hesitation for me either......it's immediate as soon as I kick it down.

 

I experience the exact same thing that lowraxe describes. It really feels like we have an auto trans downshift rather than a manual constant throttle. It is not felt if one is progressing through the gears, only going from a constant speed to getting on the gas to accelerate. When I get it into the dealer for the 3500 check, I'll address the issue. Hopefully someone will have an answer before then. I certainly did not buy a 6mt to have the auto trans experience. Love the car, though.

 

did some test today in 5th gear--no hesitation at all from 2K rpm. i think the hesitation only occurs in 1st and 2nd gear at low rpm, thus, leading me to believe that the combination of power and gearing lead to the hesitation.

i remember my 88 acura integra 5MT also had some hesitation in 1st gear.

 

stopped by the dealer and the service guy said that it (the car) checked out fine. That the trans and the shift were normal and as long as no codes pop up there is really nothing that can be done. I just scratched my head and said that it is difficult to believe that a 40,000 dollar car has this type of hesitancy. I told him I will again address the issue at the 3750 check up and will continue until there is some resolution.

 

ditto, same issue here, 6mt, i do as another already posted, it's just "turbo lag!" in my old 86 toyota tercel wagon, if i needed more than the 62HP it had, i'd just turn off the A/C, and whala, immediate boost!!!

 

Went to the dealer yesterday and tapped his brain for a little while on it. There was a mechanic there too who seemed to concur with his take on the issue.

I described the problem to him, and he immediately asked how I drive (aggressively or not). I told him it depends on the day, particularly because I have been trying to drive a little more conservatively to increase my mileage (and not repeat the 98mph speeding ticket I got the other day). Anyway, he basically told me that I am the problem because I am confusing the car. Apparently, with this drive-by-wire system, the car adapts to the driver. So if you drive like an old lady, it will change it's acceleration profiles to fit that style. Unfortunately, this means that when that old lady needs to accelerate quickly, the car will question whether that's really what she wanted to do.

This explanation kinda ticked me off to be quite honest. He basically told me I have to drive consistently to accommodate the car's computer. Seems to me the best thing would be to yank the computer out and just have a straight link to the throttle.

I guess at this point all we can hope for is that someone will either develop a replacement chip to get past this issue, or develop some interface by which we can input our driving style manually.

On a side note, the salesman had told me I didn't need the 93 octane all the time...suggested I use 89 and go up to the 93 every fifth tank. The maintenance folks did not agree, so I'll be sticking to the premium from here out. Supposedly it should make some difference with this problem too.

 

There's only one thing I'll say is definitely fact about what you've written and that's that your salesperson is a complete moron.

 

Seriously. I always tell my customers to put premium in their cars. Some of them like to respond with "it's only recommended." That's until I explain how knock sensors work. I had one guy tell me that if he were leasing the car, he'd put regular in it since "it's only a rental." I was like WTF is wrong with you? I didn't say that but I was thinking it. I guess I just know how to take care of my vehicles. Lease or not, how can anyone f**k the car over that badly "just because it's a lease." I mean I'd feel bad for the car. If you can afford a 40k car, you can afford the fuel it requires. Cheap ***.

 

The fuel grade topic is addressed on a number of other threads, and based on all the information I now have, I will only use premium from now on. However, it raises a question that is relevant to this thread. Is anyone out there who uses only premium fuel, but still experiences this hesitation problem? Just curious to see what a difference it makes. (I work from home, so it'll be a little while before I get to refill the tank to experience it for myself)

 

your salesperson was wrong about the fuel recommednation, but i suspect he is right about the DBW.

it does learn, and it does get confused when i have been tooting around for a few days and then start driving more aggressively. i also would prefer a DBW that does not adapt, and is just "one program".

 

If the DBW set up "learned" a more conservative driving style it should also relearn to respond to more aggressive driving.

As lowraxe points out the DBW "learning" curve issue is addressed in other threads, where others have also pointed out that the system will continue to learn.