08 G35S 5AT G-Timer 0-60, 1/4 Mile Times
#16
Join Date: Apr 2008
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Nobody is disputing my 1/4 miles around 13.6-13.7, which I'm surprised at. Most sedans are running 14s, maybe 13.9 but I haven't seen anybody break as low as I was recording.
Anybody have any ideas as to why my times are .3-.4 faster? The G-Timer seems to be very accurate to me...
Is the car actually just running 13.67 in the 1/4 mile
Anybody have any ideas as to why my times are .3-.4 faster? The G-Timer seems to be very accurate to me...
Is the car actually just running 13.67 in the 1/4 mile
#18
Originally Posted by popcornten
Nobody is disputing my 1/4 miles around 13.6-13.7, which I'm surprised at. Most sedans are running 14s, maybe 13.9 but I haven't seen anybody break as low as I was recording.
Anybody have any ideas as to why my times are .3-.4 faster? The G-Timer seems to be very accurate to me...
Is the car actually just running 13.67 in the 1/4 mile
Anybody have any ideas as to why my times are .3-.4 faster? The G-Timer seems to be very accurate to me...
Is the car actually just running 13.67 in the 1/4 mile
#19
a "reported" 100% showroom stock automatic G35 sedan ran 13.53 out at houston raceway park in january of this year. It was in late january with very cool, dry weather. The owner commented it was his wifes daily driver (with 10K on the clock) and it was stock right down to the paper filters. I think he trapped around 101. The vid is on youtube.
A real 1/4 track will allow "roll-out" if you are smart enough to stage shallow (IE - just barely trip the second stage bulb). This will give you about 12" of forward motion "inside" the stage area before you trip the official elapsed time beam timer. If you stage "DEEP", you have tripped off the second stage bulb and lose alot of roll-out. But the offset is you should have the ability to improve reaction time (which has zero to do with elapsed time).
So:
shallow stage: good for ET, bad for reaction time
deep stage: bad for et, good for reaction
I stage as shallow as possible. I could care less about reaction time when I'm usually only worried about my car and personal best ETs. If you are really racing the other car, you might experiment with deep staging to get the jump on green. (Once again, reaction time has ZERO affect on elapsed time; they are two different timing increments).
A real 1/4 track will allow "roll-out" if you are smart enough to stage shallow (IE - just barely trip the second stage bulb). This will give you about 12" of forward motion "inside" the stage area before you trip the official elapsed time beam timer. If you stage "DEEP", you have tripped off the second stage bulb and lose alot of roll-out. But the offset is you should have the ability to improve reaction time (which has zero to do with elapsed time).
So:
shallow stage: good for ET, bad for reaction time
deep stage: bad for et, good for reaction
I stage as shallow as possible. I could care less about reaction time when I'm usually only worried about my car and personal best ETs. If you are really racing the other car, you might experiment with deep staging to get the jump on green. (Once again, reaction time has ZERO affect on elapsed time; they are two different timing increments).
#20
Originally Posted by Mike@RiversideInfiniti
In my experience, modern Japanese engines take at least 15k miles to break in.
My G35 continued to increase in power until it was Totalled at 39k miles.
My 2005 s2k continued to increase in power, even at 86k miles. I originally baselined it at about 1k, which had an increase before my second baseline at 10k, (fast forward NA mods, and then back to stock for a final baseline before going FI) and then at 35k before I went SC. Post SC, Post tune, I dynoed again at 60k, which had an increase over the original dyno. At 86k, the car was parted out, and I did a final dyno @ the buyer's request. This 'back to stock' NA dyno was higher than the final baseline at 35k before I went SC.
To my knowledge, the VQ takes a MINIMUM of 15k to fully break in, and will continue to gain power, possibly still gaining (although minimal) at 60k+
The NSX is one of the few cars with enough dynos, that shows 100k + mile cars dynoing higher than when new.
My G35 continued to increase in power until it was Totalled at 39k miles.
My 2005 s2k continued to increase in power, even at 86k miles. I originally baselined it at about 1k, which had an increase before my second baseline at 10k, (fast forward NA mods, and then back to stock for a final baseline before going FI) and then at 35k before I went SC. Post SC, Post tune, I dynoed again at 60k, which had an increase over the original dyno. At 86k, the car was parted out, and I did a final dyno @ the buyer's request. This 'back to stock' NA dyno was higher than the final baseline at 35k before I went SC.
To my knowledge, the VQ takes a MINIMUM of 15k to fully break in, and will continue to gain power, possibly still gaining (although minimal) at 60k+
The NSX is one of the few cars with enough dynos, that shows 100k + mile cars dynoing higher than when new.
#22
13.53 vid
he claims the auto kept bogging down since the vdc will not fully disengage. here's betting a 6 speed manual in the same conditions will run lower and more mph. I'm thinking 13.3-4 at 103 in a mineshaft day (-1000), with a really good 60ft time (1.90s). This is an amazingly capable vehicle for a nice accomodated 4 door and a naturally aspirated v6 in this price range (and possibly beyond).
he claims the auto kept bogging down since the vdc will not fully disengage. here's betting a 6 speed manual in the same conditions will run lower and more mph. I'm thinking 13.3-4 at 103 in a mineshaft day (-1000), with a really good 60ft time (1.90s). This is an amazingly capable vehicle for a nice accomodated 4 door and a naturally aspirated v6 in this price range (and possibly beyond).
#23
Originally Posted by C6Zhombre
13.53 vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UnP_QRWktd4
he claims the auto kept bogging down since the vdc will not fully disengage. here's betting a 6 speed manual in the same conditions will run lower and more mph. I'm thinking 13.3-4 at 103 in a mineshaft day (-1000), with a really good 60ft time (1.90s). This is an amazingly capable vehicle for a nice accomodated 4 door and a naturally aspirated v6 in this price range (and possibly beyond).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UnP_QRWktd4
he claims the auto kept bogging down since the vdc will not fully disengage. here's betting a 6 speed manual in the same conditions will run lower and more mph. I'm thinking 13.3-4 at 103 in a mineshaft day (-1000), with a really good 60ft time (1.90s). This is an amazingly capable vehicle for a nice accomodated 4 door and a naturally aspirated v6 in this price range (and possibly beyond).
#26
#27
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[QUOTE=C6Zhombre]a "reported" 100% showroom stock automatic G35 sedan ran 13.53 out at houston raceway park in january of this year. It was in late january with very cool, dry weather. The owner commented it was his wifes daily driver (with 10K on the clock) and it was stock right down to the paper filters. I think he trapped around 101. The vid is on youtube.
Yeah, I did my runs at night (fairly cool and completely dry) on pretty fresh asphalt (2 or 3 years old) so it hooked pretty well.
I'll get a few more runs in and see if I can break into the 13.5s with better starts (i.e. less wheel spin)
Yeah, I did my runs at night (fairly cool and completely dry) on pretty fresh asphalt (2 or 3 years old) so it hooked pretty well.
I'll get a few more runs in and see if I can break into the 13.5s with better starts (i.e. less wheel spin)
#29
Originally Posted by Mike@RiversideInfiniti
In my experience, modern Japanese engines take at least 15k miles to break in.
My G35 continued to increase in power until it was Totalled at 39k miles.
My 2005 s2k continued to increase in power, even at 86k miles. I originally baselined it at about 1k, which had an increase before my second baseline at 10k, (fast forward NA mods, and then back to stock for a final baseline before going FI) and then at 35k before I went SC. Post SC, Post tune, I dynoed again at 60k, which had an increase over the original dyno. At 86k, the car was parted out, and I did a final dyno @ the buyer's request. This 'back to stock' NA dyno was higher than the final baseline at 35k before I went SC.
To my knowledge, the VQ takes a MINIMUM of 15k to fully break in, and will continue to gain power, possibly still gaining (although minimal) at 60k+
The NSX is one of the few cars with enough dynos, that shows 100k + mile cars dynoing higher than when new.
My G35 continued to increase in power until it was Totalled at 39k miles.
My 2005 s2k continued to increase in power, even at 86k miles. I originally baselined it at about 1k, which had an increase before my second baseline at 10k, (fast forward NA mods, and then back to stock for a final baseline before going FI) and then at 35k before I went SC. Post SC, Post tune, I dynoed again at 60k, which had an increase over the original dyno. At 86k, the car was parted out, and I did a final dyno @ the buyer's request. This 'back to stock' NA dyno was higher than the final baseline at 35k before I went SC.
To my knowledge, the VQ takes a MINIMUM of 15k to fully break in, and will continue to gain power, possibly still gaining (although minimal) at 60k+
The NSX is one of the few cars with enough dynos, that shows 100k + mile cars dynoing higher than when new.
#30
"0-60:
Fastest I've gotten is a 5.4 flat, but averaging more like a 5.45 to 60. Slowest was a 5.7 with quite a bit of wheelspin.
- Seems pretty accurate"
I got identical times with my car on a very hot 90 deg day, full tank of gas
and ~2.5k miles on the odo.
My friend with an 2002 BMW M3 6sp gets 5.4 average but it is much easier to
duplicat with our 5AT
Fastest I've gotten is a 5.4 flat, but averaging more like a 5.45 to 60. Slowest was a 5.7 with quite a bit of wheelspin.
- Seems pretty accurate"
I got identical times with my car on a very hot 90 deg day, full tank of gas
and ~2.5k miles on the odo.
My friend with an 2002 BMW M3 6sp gets 5.4 average but it is much easier to
duplicat with our 5AT