^ +1

I agree... The OEM tires on the sport package are actually very good performance tires, but most people with G's don't really understand that, and as far as they are concerned, if the tires don't last then they are crap... Most people are educated enough about tires to know the difference unfortunately.

 

yeah i think the bridgestone potenza re050 are some of the best tires out for the car...i got 28000 out of them before the rear passenger side started to leak...i would've probably went with them again except get the re070 this time around...tire tread is really not a big deal to me...i don't mind replacing tires once a year...the bridgestones lasted me almost 2 years...the kuhmo ecsta spt's that came with the volks from Tom are actually good tires too, very grippy...my next tires will probably either be the sumitomo HT Z III <---really cheap and placed above re050, advan S, and contisportcontact 3 on tirerack.com

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/...irePageLocQty=

or go with ds-g3's from good year since they have the best hydroplaning resistance...or maybe the ps2's, i've heard too much about this tire from every niche in the automotive world to not try it at least once

 

Try the Dunlop SP Sport Maxx that comes with the the X Sport package... I have the 08 X sport. Tires are not bad. However, since I'm in NJ and I have a dedicated set of snows, when it's time to change my Sport Maxx's, I may try the Bridgestones since they're pretty sticky.. Got to have some fun sometime!

 

I got 30k on my rears, 35k and counting on my fronts. Yes, they are great tires, not crap at all. Yes, you can buy cheaper tires, but you can also screw up a great car by just taking advice on a forum. Yet, since you asked, here's some beginner's advice.

Don't believe the dealership, take out a penny, get down on your haunches and hold the penny upside down between your tire treads, and look at the head - check if you can see all of Abe's hair. If you see all of Abe's hair when you check between the outside, center, and inside tread blocks of a tire, replace the tires on that end of the car. If part of Abe's head is obscured by the tread on one or two places but not all- inside, center, or outside, it means you have had inflation problems or camber problems and should diagnose those first. If part of Abe's head is obscured in all three places, I would say you can drive it awhile longer, just know that your ability to steer in standing water is less than if you had newer tires.

Unless you live in a snowy climate, stick with tires in the same category, i.e., NOT all-season. Get a harder treadwear rating, but don't go crazy, 300 is fine, 600 is not. Someone mentioned the Sumitomo HTR Z III, which I use, and think they're about as good as OE. By the way, they're still $400 for the back.

Now, I can't resist. I've seen posts of up to 40,000 miles on this same car/tire combo. If you're really done at 7500, then you're letting someone else drive it or you don't have a clue as to what your driving style really is. Plan ahead for maintenance & tires. You chose a relatively expensive car to drive.

 

i drive like a bat out of hell and my tires have gotten me 12000 on KDW2's, which have a 300 treadware, 7000 seems about right according to my calculations.

 

I'm riding on 4 Bridgestone RE760 Sports, they have a 340 tread-wear, and are a good compromise between handling and wear. They're in the ultra-high performance summer tire category, so they are no good for cold weather.

I've had a set for about 10k spirited miles of driving and still have 70% (7/32) tread. If you're going to stick with the staggered setup, I'd put 245/45r18 on the 7.5" fronts and 255/45r18 on 8.5" rears.

The cheapest on-line place I've found to buy tires is
http://www.onlinetires.com/default.aspx

I buy on-line and then take em to my local Tire Max, they charge me $20/each for mounting and I still save money.

Good luck with your decision.

 

If you have $ and live in the snow belt my recommendation is as follows: run a dedicated winter set and summer set.

I am currently using Potenza RE050 for my summer set which IMO, are pretty damn good and def better than stock. When I wear out these tires, I am switching the Michelin Pilot Sport's which are the best summer tires (yes, there are many differing opinions on this) but they do rank #1 in Tire Rack's Summer Performance category.
I next winter, I will be running Bridgestone Blizzaks which again IMO are the best winter tires out there. Yes they are pricey but they are extremely worth it b/c they grip the road VERY well when there is snow on the ground.
GL and as everyone else wrote, let us know what you chose.

 

you drive too fast, HA, i have the same problem

 

+1

me too and I know nothing wrong with the tire or the car. It is in my righ foot.

 

Treadwear ratings vary from one manufacturer to another. One tire from Bridgestone with a 300 may vary greatly in tread life when compared to a 300 rated tire from BFG. It's apples to oranges....

The best advice above is to check the tires yourself with Abe Lincoln, and see if it is really even wear. If it is not, look for the source of the problem. I am guessing that being lowered has something to do with it. If it is even wear, you need to accept the fact, or change the way you drive or get a harder (worse performing) tire.

I am not knocking you at all. I have been using high-performance tires on my daily drivers for 8 years now. At first, I was shocked at how short the life of the tires was, but I have gotten use to getting 12k-15k out of a set of tires (and replacing them each year).

 

^ Jran makes a great point about treadwear ratings varying from one manufacturer to another, so that isn't the best indicator of how a tire will wear.

Also, when checking you thread depth, why not just go to your local auto parts store and pick up a handle tread depth gauge? They cost about $3 and will last you virtually forever... I've had mine for over 10 years and still use it to check the tread depth on my tires ever 2 - 3 months. It's more accurate that the penny method and will give you an actual number (i.e. 4/32, or 7/32) to work with.

 

Or you can use some other measuring tools. Vernier would do it too.

 

every one here is saying the right stuff.

quit driving your car like its a raped ape. (and stay in the right lane on the highway so ur not in MY way, HA)

get harder tires and loose some performance

or be prepared to whip out the visa at the tire shop often


i prefer the raped ape and visa method my self, i bought an S for a reason

 

and these are the 18" sport rims and tires not the Journey 17"ers ? That must be a world record. I do very little spirited driving and have only spun the tires a couples of times for no more than a foot or 2 (you can call it a chirp more than spinning the tires) and I am only at 20,000 and about 1 or 2000+ (almost bald) past when I should have replaced my rears. Im just holding off deciding what I want to do as far as tires.

Whats your secret?

 

Someone touched on this relatively quickly. The tread rating is 140. I don't think from my research the tires are softer than any other but the tread on factory tire is actually shorter than non-OEM tire. I believe the same model of tires from a tire dealer are something like a 220 tread rating. I may be wrong but have been told some factory tire are cut shorter or molded shorter so Nissan can buy them more cheaply.

Just an FYI.