Big Problem

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Jun 3, 2009 | 06:47 PM
  #16  
Advan wheels? i was never really considering any new wheels...i like my M45's
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Jun 3, 2009 | 06:56 PM
  #17  
I agree about the toe. If the toe is out of wack, it will chew through tires pretty fast. I am also running the Falkens, and I have had no issues at about 4k miles. My toe is basically 0, and camber is -1.5 in the rear, and -1.7 in the front. I actually like the Falken's better than the others you listed.
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Jun 3, 2009 | 07:05 PM
  #18  
Quote: Advan wheels? i was never really considering any new wheels...i like my M45's
I could've sworn you asked about the Advan Type 5 wheels a while back...

Maybe I'm losing it lol
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Jun 3, 2009 | 08:18 PM
  #19  
Quote: yes, camber does kill a over a long period of time but its toe that is the true culprit of excessive tire wear.
ding ding ding!
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Jun 3, 2009 | 09:59 PM
  #20  
Yes, the flame was a little hot with some of the earlier posts. I agree, though, that you should never change a car without knowing what else will be affected. After all, you could have had an accident due to mechanical failure, which is unheard of with stock late-model cars. They build these cars right, but anybody can screw 'em up.
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Jun 3, 2009 | 11:17 PM
  #21  
Quote: Yeah it's called your camber being off from lowering your car.

Next time do some homework before using mom and dad's money on buying a plethora of mods so you can be sure what to anticipate. If you did you'd of known that you needed to get your camber adjusted after dropping a car.

It's kids like you who take a stock car, buy some crazy turbo kit because it's not your money, then wonder why your tranny and/or engine exploded.
Take it easy bud, you are a bit harsh on OP.
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Jun 4, 2009 | 03:26 AM
  #22  
harsh yes - but honestly probably deserved.

as one of those kids who "mommy and daddy" bought the car for, i understand and have taken the flack for having the car in the first place

BUT, the OP has posted about being a street racer, and about people being jealous of him and messing with his car due to his street racing and always driving hard.

you can't just go throw anything on the car without knowing what could happen (or how bad it actually looks...)If you don't know what a drop will change about the car then you obviously haven't done ANY homework at all. This issue with wear is the exact reason I'm not dropping my car, i researched it and made an educated decision about it.

titan - did you even get an alignment after the drop...? I had the same problem with huge inner tire wear in the front and it was chalked up to needing an alignment
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Jun 4, 2009 | 03:33 AM
  #23  
Quote: take it easy bud, you are a bit harsh on op.
+1111111
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Jun 4, 2009 | 03:43 PM
  #24  
Hilarious $hlt
Quote: even if his rents did or did not buy his mods for him, whats it to you? get off his nuts. it sounds like you are bitter because daddy didn't hug you?



I love virtual smackdowns....
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Jun 4, 2009 | 03:49 PM
  #25  
The OP's parents have good taste - the G is a nice ride!
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Aug 29, 2009 | 02:10 AM
  #26  
No reason to continue busting his nuts bc he didn't buy his car or whatever the case may be...he prob should have read up a little more before posting like he didn't know the H&R's wouldn't cause premature wear without the proper other installs..alignment ect....but either way it's a Beautiful 2nd gen Sedan and we are all for the most part a family here right?
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Aug 29, 2009 | 08:19 AM
  #27  
Ok back on topic guys, so after a drop an alignment is needed to mainly correct the toe to bring it back to .01-.00 or as close to that as possible correct?

In order to adjust the camber I'd need to get adjustable arms for the fronts and rears correct? but would anyone really need to adjust their camber after lowering? or is it required more when changing to bigger wheels or having an aggressive drop?
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Aug 29, 2009 | 08:45 AM
  #28  
The tire residue is from the tires rubbing. Could be a bad fit (too wide for the wheel) or improper installation.

Keep in mind that high performance tires are soft and with agressive use they will not last very long. Whatever tire you buy do get an alignment from a good shop when the tires are installed. When shopping for tires, look at the treadwear ratings, a Bridgestone Potenza with a UTQG rating of 140 A A is a very soft summer tire. A Dunlop SP Sport Maxx A1 A/S has a rating of 260 A A. This all season has a somewhat longer tread life. Go to Tire Rack and do some research.

One final note, have your alignment and balancing checked after the tires have been on the car for a month or so to be sure that everything is in good shape. No one wants to keep spending money on tires, unless you are going from summer to winter sets.

Good Luck
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Aug 29, 2009 | 10:26 AM
  #29  
Quote: Ok back on topic guys, so after a drop an alignment is needed to mainly correct the toe to bring it back to .01-.00 or as close to that as possible correct?

In order to adjust the camber I'd need to get adjustable arms for the fronts and rears correct? but would anyone really need to adjust their camber after lowering? or is it required more when changing to bigger wheels or having an aggressive drop?
Toe needs to be as close to 0" as possible, 1/16" or 1/32" is usually good enough.

Im on eibachs and have installed the spc front and rear kits. Toe-bolts are annoying to install but i wasnt able to get neutral toe without having -3 to -4 rear camber. The stock toe cams didnt give me enough adjustment.

Short answer, yes you need the front a-arms, rear arms and toe-bolts to get the maximum amount of adjustment.
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Aug 29, 2009 | 10:41 AM
  #30  
Quote: Take it easy bud, you are a bit harsh on OP.
werd ...

doesnt matter who paid for it .
its his ride ..
hes still learning ..
and thats what this community is all about
teaching and learning all we can about our cars ..
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