I just took my G to the nissan dealership to get my ATF flushed and rear diff changed. They had three recommendations for me and I need your guys opinion on if I can do these changes myself or if I should have them do it. 68000 miles
1. Rear brake pad replacement (they say im at 1mm) and rotor resurfacing $219
I havent changed the brakes or rotors since ive had the car and I know Im due. But I wanted to changed the brakes myself if its easy and I need no special tools. What should I do about resurfacing the rotors?
2. Radiator coolant hose upper/lower replace $239.
239 just for hoses? you gotta be kidding me. Can I do this myself?
3. Cleaning the Fuel inductor/fuel injector $249. What should I do?

Also there was an engine fault code U1001 and they want $95 just to diagnose the problem. I asked what the fault code corresponds to and they said there is no way of knowing and thats what the diagnosis is for.

Also I am having this problem and sometimes it seems random. When I go up this one steep hill the emergency brake light, VDC off and Slip light all come on at the same time. A few seconds later the brake light turns off but the other lights stay on. I tested to see if the VDC is off by flooring it and it does infact turn off. The only error code found was U1001. Does anyone know what could be causing this?

Thanks for your input!

 

Changing the rear pads is easy, and an auto parts place can usually resurface your rotors. Someone else who's done it recently should comment on the cost, but think it's something like $15 - $20 per?

There are lots of places that can clean injectors, and you should also find out what exactly they are planning to do (hey, can of injector cleaner in the gas - we're done! ).

 

I don't think you need to change the hoses.

I never heard of anyone doing that as a part of the maintenance. I never changed mine and nothing happened.

check out Infinitihelp.com. There are all kinds of DYI there to help you do things.


U1001 code means that there is no communication between cars computers.

Ty erasing that using a battery or throttle pedal technique and see if it comes back.

If it does you need to check the connections to your control units to make sure they all nice and connected properly.

 

^+1 unless your hoses are cracked or about to leak no need to change those. As for the brakes it is easy and in DIY, as for the code you can always go to your closest Auto Warehouse, Autozone etc and get the code pulled for free by them.

Also pepboys resurfaces rotors for ~10-15$ per rotor

 

i have never resurfaced the rotors on any of my cars. unless you have a specific need (warped rotor) to do it i would not recommend doing it.

i can replace all my pads on my s2000 in about 30 minutes with basic hand tools. yet to try it on the G, but i don't think it would be much different.

i'm sure there is a how-to on the forum some where. the first time will take you a bit, but when you do it again it will probably take you half the time.

 

Thanks for the info. I am very very new to DIY on my car. I only know how to change my own oil. I have seen the videos on infinitihelp and will try a couple of those out. Which connections do I need to make sure are properly connected?

 

Don't know if anyone addressed this part of your question yet.
Check your brake fluid level. It probably needs to be topped up.

 

"Also I am having this problem and sometimes it seems random. When I go up this one steep hill the emergency brake light, VDC off and Slip light all come on at the same time. A few seconds later the brake light turns off but the other lights stay on. I tested to see if the VDC is off by flooring it and it does infact turn off. The only error code found was U1001. Does anyone know what could be causing this?"

The rear brakes need replacement, your rear brakes work in conenction with the VDC, so when the pads are low and the VDC goes into action, those indicators serve as notice that the rear brakes are not functioning properly to help the VDC do its job. So you ned to replace the pads and make sure your brake fluid is reading a nromal level.

 

Good explanation and one that seems to make sense too, considering he stated he's down to 1mm of pad on the rears.

 

Also don't top off your brake fluid until AFTER you replace the brake pads. The fluid level will rise after you install thicker (new) pads. Oh and make sure to remove the cap on the brake fluid reservoir before changing out the pads. DON'T FORGET TO PUT THE CAP BACK ON!

 

I've never understood the whole resurfacing rotors concept...isn't it just as much to repalce them and have the peace of mind that your rotor isn't half the thickness it should be from stock?

 

yup....i would buy generic blank rotors from a reputable manufacture before resurfacing old ones.