The rear sub on my 2007 g35x isn't producing any sound. I replaced both fuses for the BOSE audio but it doesn't do anything. Is there a way for me to check if the speaker is dead or if something more sinister is going on?

Thanks!

 

YOu could remove the liner and check the harness going to the powered sub. The amp is attached to the speaker itself (separate from the rest of the bose amp unit). Check the harness to make sure power is going to the amp and that the remote line is activated.

Really, that sub is pretty sad. You could just install a trunk subwoofer for some real bass and take the inputs from the harness.

 

Yeah, the front speakers do all the heavy lifting, the rears and the rear sub are pretty lame.

 

Are there any aftermarket subwoofers that would flushly fit right into the place of the OEM Bose subwoofer?

 

My audio knowledge is pretty outdated, so take what I have to say with a grain of salt, however I dont think there is anything that would fit in there that is worth the cost/effort. There is no simple plug-in aftermarket replacement speaker. You're better off putting in an aftermarket sub, box and amp. It's an 8" woofer so that's a bad start. And then anything you put in there needs its own separate amp, you can't power it off the bose amp because.....well b/c its stupid bose and they do weird crap. Also, you take out the amp that's in the stock sub box and you lose sound to all your other speakers, so the guts of the stock sub have to stay, which means you might as well just leave that stock sub in there unless you want to replace everything (which many people do).

I guess this is OT from the original OP's question (sorry). Even though its a crappy sub, if mine wasn't working I'd probably want to know why or have it fixed just for the sake of having it work correctly, however I wouldnt throw much money at it.

 

Yea the rear speakers are kinda weak, but at least in the past the sub was powerful enough to shake the rear window.

 

I just read this qoute from Web2carz

"Infiniti claims, for instance, that the G35 is the first in the industry with a three-way, 10-inch subwoofer in each front door; the remaining eight speakers are traditionally located, with another 10-inch woofer in the rear parcel shelf, a 6.5-inch, full-range speaker in each rear door, three mid-range speakers across the front of the cabin, and a one-inch tweeter in each A-pillar."

Three 10" subs? Really?

 

yup for the BOSE system

 

In my old car audio days, all Bose speakers ran at weird impedance levels. Something like a 1 ohm speaker, or a strange "non-industry standard" level. In essence, their speakers would only work with their included amplifiers, and vice versa.

I don't know how they work now, but if they're the same setup as before, the only way you're going to get it to work is to get another bose sub.

 

Yeah, but back in "the day" lots of guys that did IASCA events, etc ran 1 ohm loads so they could stay in the lower power classes but actually run at much higher power. That's not a bad thing at all if you have a capable amp.

 

On topic, if you can reach the speaker's terminals, grab a nine volt and test it:

 

i didn't know this until after reading this thread. i faded the sound 100% to the rear and wow.... i didn't realize that the fronts were making all that noise. i wonder why infiniti did that?

 

Actually it's fine if that rear sub truly worked like a sub. The doors are more like midbass drivers, and since the lower frequencies are more non-directional, the front doors make sense for what they are. Problem is, the rear sub is just not much of a sub in a true sense of the word.

 

I realize that, as I had a set up similar to that.

However, my point was trying to find a speaker of that impedance rating to even work with the bose amp used to be impossible. Again, I don't know about now.

 

Check this out: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=161

1 DVC driver with Voice Coils in Series
Connecting the two voice coils of the driver in series (+ to -) will result in the following impedances:

Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofer: 12 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 8 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 3 Ohms

1 DVC driver with Voice Coils in Parallel
Connecting the two voice coils of the driver in parallel (+ to +, - to -) will result in the following impedances:

Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofer: 3 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 1 Ohms
Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 0.75 Ohm