strut bar?
#1
#4
#5
CUSCO also has released one for the V36 guys. It looks pretty similar to the GTspec but much better IMO. Looks more functional too b/c it utilizes a wider bar.
If you want more info..
http://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-s...amplified.html
If you want more info..
http://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-s...amplified.html
#7
I understand what you are saying with the 3 pc strut bars. 3 pc strut bars are beneficial b/c you can adjust them for any clearance issues. Also correct me if I am wrong, but shouldn't the strut bar allow for some flex though? If they didn't flex at all, they'd be prone to snapping in race environment where you put a lot of stress at the mounting points. Also I think these aftermarket struts bars are more of a cosmetic mod than a real performance mod. If you want to really stiffen up your suspension, you are better off with aftermarket sway bars + coilovers.
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#8
#11
I think the alutec/circuit sports looks better but is less rigid. The reason why I say this is when installing, I bolted one end and I actually could move the base of the other end several millimeters to line up the bolts how I wanted them.
I personally find it hard to believe anyone could notice a difference with or without the bar.
I personally find it hard to believe anyone could notice a difference with or without the bar.
#13
Yoshi, it's just placebo effect. Your mind is playing tricks on you. It might make a slight difference, but not enough to make it any noticeable. It's just your mind trying to justify you spending the $200 on the new mod.
But hey, who am I to say what works and doesn't work. If you think it makes a difference, my hat's off to you.
But hey, who am I to say what works and doesn't work. If you think it makes a difference, my hat's off to you.
#15
From what i understood, bars are all made of multiple tubes running the span from strut to strut as that's the most rigid type of structure available. Think of a round vs. square pipe. However, the way they connect to the strut towers are typically the weak links -- where some bars have hinges and others are solid pieces such as the Alutec.
When one side of the car moves up, it pushes the bar the opposite way, placing stress on those hinges. To some degree, it would allow the bar to deform at those connection points, basically leaving the bar askew.
Attached is an image showing where the stress points would be (orange), types of movements (red/blue arrows) and what i meant by the skew (bottom image with blue arrows.)
I still have my reservations since this is just one part of a larger story. For one thing, the bar also acts to close the "box" that is composed of the entire engine bay and bottom frame/suspension components, making it a stronger structure altogether. So there are pluses regardless of which route one takes on the type of bar.
When i chose the Alutec, i based it on price and looks, plus my personal belief (now) that hinges are not the way to go. Also, for what it's worth, many bar manufacturers do take the hinged route as it easily compensates for various manufacturing variances and tolerances both from their end and the automakers, plus they're able to easily mix/match bars with plates to cover more vehicle models at a lower price point. The Alutec design does have it's cons, too, being that the holes on the mounting plates are a bit larger -- also to compensate for variances.
I'm on your camp. The G is fairly rigid. On my old Maxima, the bar made a noticeable difference. On the G, not so much. I had the car on the road course before and after adding the strut bar. It felt different, but nothing significant, and those are at the limits which i hardly ever reach in my daily commutes.