belt noise?
#1
03-02-2013, 09:43 PM
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belt noise?
Sorry guys. I tried my best to use search but couldnt find anything. Was driving in a parking lot and all of a sudden my battery light and brake like came on and power steering stopped working. Looking at the belt and it was shreaded. Luckily pep boys was in that plaza. Bought a new belt and did it outside. And now it has a loud squealing noise if i tap the gas a bit and if i turn the steering wheel it gets louder and power steering fluid leaks out the cap. We redid it 2 times
#2
03-02-2013, 10:47 PM
#3
03-02-2013, 11:07 PM
#4
03-03-2013, 12:22 AM
#5
03-03-2013, 12:26 AM
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#6
03-03-2013, 12:28 AM
From google...
"Symptoms that typically indicate an automatic tensioner has reached the end of the road include:
* Belt slipping (due to loss of tension). Watch the tensioner arm movement while the engine is idling. There should be a gentle arm motion as accessories turn on and off (such as the A/C compressor clutch engaging and disengaging). If the tensioner pulley does not move at all, the tensioner may be stuck. You can test for this later with the engine off. Also watch for excessive chattering or tensioner arm oscillation while the engine is idling. This can be caused by a worn damper inside the tensioner. Excessive arm oscillation should be viewed as a warning sign that the damper has possibly failed or is failing and the tensioner needs to be replaced now. If it is not replaced, it can have a hammering effect on nearby accessories causing the shaft bearings on the accessory to fail.
* Battery runs down (because belt is slipping and not turning the alternator fast enough)
* Belt glazing (caused by slipping). Any glazing (shine) on the underside of the belt indicates that the belt has been slipping. Slippage can be caused by not enough spring tension on the tensioner, a failing component bearing, contaminated pulleys or an elongated belt.
* Excessive movement or rocking of the tensioner pulley, or "belt flutter" when the engine is running. This means the spring inside the tensioner is weak and/or the bushing is worn. The tensioner needs to be replaced.
* Wobble in the tensioner pulley (or idler pulley). Wobble means the bearings are shot.
* Belt or tensioner noise. (this is why i think you have this problem and also the fact that your belt shredded that iv seen happen when tensioners have gone bad)The tensioner should be quiet when the engine is running. Any squealing, rumbling, growling or chirping noises should be investigated to determine the cause. A mechanic's stethoscope can be used to pinpoint the source of the noise. The probe should be placed against the bolt in the center of the tensioner pulley wheel to listen for bearing noise. The idler pulley(s) should also be checked because the bearings in this component can wear out, too. The same goes for all the engine-driven accessories (water pump, alternator, PS pump and A/C compressor).
* Pulley damage. Physical damage of any kind on the automatic tensioner pulley may indicate excessive tension or physical interference. If the pulley is damaged, replace the tensioner assembly not just the pulley. If an idler pulley is damaged, inspect the tensioner also because vibrations caused by a bad idler pulley may damage the tensioner."
http://www.aa1car.com/library/belt_tensioners.htm
"Symptoms that typically indicate an automatic tensioner has reached the end of the road include:
* Belt slipping (due to loss of tension). Watch the tensioner arm movement while the engine is idling. There should be a gentle arm motion as accessories turn on and off (such as the A/C compressor clutch engaging and disengaging). If the tensioner pulley does not move at all, the tensioner may be stuck. You can test for this later with the engine off. Also watch for excessive chattering or tensioner arm oscillation while the engine is idling. This can be caused by a worn damper inside the tensioner. Excessive arm oscillation should be viewed as a warning sign that the damper has possibly failed or is failing and the tensioner needs to be replaced now. If it is not replaced, it can have a hammering effect on nearby accessories causing the shaft bearings on the accessory to fail.
* Battery runs down (because belt is slipping and not turning the alternator fast enough)
* Belt glazing (caused by slipping). Any glazing (shine) on the underside of the belt indicates that the belt has been slipping. Slippage can be caused by not enough spring tension on the tensioner, a failing component bearing, contaminated pulleys or an elongated belt.
* Excessive movement or rocking of the tensioner pulley, or "belt flutter" when the engine is running. This means the spring inside the tensioner is weak and/or the bushing is worn. The tensioner needs to be replaced.
* Wobble in the tensioner pulley (or idler pulley). Wobble means the bearings are shot.
* Belt or tensioner noise. (this is why i think you have this problem and also the fact that your belt shredded that iv seen happen when tensioners have gone bad)The tensioner should be quiet when the engine is running. Any squealing, rumbling, growling or chirping noises should be investigated to determine the cause. A mechanic's stethoscope can be used to pinpoint the source of the noise. The probe should be placed against the bolt in the center of the tensioner pulley wheel to listen for bearing noise. The idler pulley(s) should also be checked because the bearings in this component can wear out, too. The same goes for all the engine-driven accessories (water pump, alternator, PS pump and A/C compressor).
* Pulley damage. Physical damage of any kind on the automatic tensioner pulley may indicate excessive tension or physical interference. If the pulley is damaged, replace the tensioner assembly not just the pulley. If an idler pulley is damaged, inspect the tensioner also because vibrations caused by a bad idler pulley may damage the tensioner."
http://www.aa1car.com/library/belt_tensioners.htm
#7
03-03-2013, 12:33 AM
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From google...
"Symptoms that typically indicate an automatic tensioner has reached the end of the road include:
* Belt slipping (due to loss of tension). Watch the tensioner arm movement while the engine is idling. There should be a gentle arm motion as accessories turn on and off (such as the A/C compressor clutch engaging and disengaging). If the tensioner pulley does not move at all, the tensioner may be stuck. You can test for this later with the engine off. Also watch for excessive chattering or tensioner arm oscillation while the engine is idling. This can be caused by a worn damper inside the tensioner. Excessive arm oscillation should be viewed as a warning sign that the damper has possibly failed or is failing and the tensioner needs to be replaced now. If it is not replaced, it can have a hammering effect on nearby accessories causing the shaft bearings on the accessory to fail.
* Battery runs down (because belt is slipping and not turning the alternator fast enough)
* Belt glazing (caused by slipping). Any glazing (shine) on the underside of the belt indicates that the belt has been slipping. Slippage can be caused by not enough spring tension on the tensioner, a failing component bearing, contaminated pulleys or an elongated belt.
* Excessive movement or rocking of the tensioner pulley, or "belt flutter" when the engine is running. This means the spring inside the tensioner is weak and/or the bushing is worn. The tensioner needs to be replaced.
* Wobble in the tensioner pulley (or idler pulley). Wobble means the bearings are shot.
* Belt or tensioner noise. (this is why i think you have this problem and also the fact that your belt shredded that iv seen happen when tensioners have gone bad)The tensioner should be quiet when the engine is running. Any squealing, rumbling, growling or chirping noises should be investigated to determine the cause. A mechanic's stethoscope can be used to pinpoint the source of the noise. The probe should be placed against the bolt in the center of the tensioner pulley wheel to listen for bearing noise. The idler pulley(s) should also be checked because the bearings in this component can wear out, too. The same goes for all the engine-driven accessories (water pump, alternator, PS pump and A/C compressor).
* Pulley damage. Physical damage of any kind on the automatic tensioner pulley may indicate excessive tension or physical interference. If the pulley is damaged, replace the tensioner assembly not just the pulley. If an idler pulley is damaged, inspect the tensioner also because vibrations caused by a bad idler pulley may damage the tensioner."
http://www.aa1car.com/library/belt_tensioners.htm
"Symptoms that typically indicate an automatic tensioner has reached the end of the road include:
* Belt slipping (due to loss of tension). Watch the tensioner arm movement while the engine is idling. There should be a gentle arm motion as accessories turn on and off (such as the A/C compressor clutch engaging and disengaging). If the tensioner pulley does not move at all, the tensioner may be stuck. You can test for this later with the engine off. Also watch for excessive chattering or tensioner arm oscillation while the engine is idling. This can be caused by a worn damper inside the tensioner. Excessive arm oscillation should be viewed as a warning sign that the damper has possibly failed or is failing and the tensioner needs to be replaced now. If it is not replaced, it can have a hammering effect on nearby accessories causing the shaft bearings on the accessory to fail.
* Battery runs down (because belt is slipping and not turning the alternator fast enough)
* Belt glazing (caused by slipping). Any glazing (shine) on the underside of the belt indicates that the belt has been slipping. Slippage can be caused by not enough spring tension on the tensioner, a failing component bearing, contaminated pulleys or an elongated belt.
* Excessive movement or rocking of the tensioner pulley, or "belt flutter" when the engine is running. This means the spring inside the tensioner is weak and/or the bushing is worn. The tensioner needs to be replaced.
* Wobble in the tensioner pulley (or idler pulley). Wobble means the bearings are shot.
* Belt or tensioner noise. (this is why i think you have this problem and also the fact that your belt shredded that iv seen happen when tensioners have gone bad)The tensioner should be quiet when the engine is running. Any squealing, rumbling, growling or chirping noises should be investigated to determine the cause. A mechanic's stethoscope can be used to pinpoint the source of the noise. The probe should be placed against the bolt in the center of the tensioner pulley wheel to listen for bearing noise. The idler pulley(s) should also be checked because the bearings in this component can wear out, too. The same goes for all the engine-driven accessories (water pump, alternator, PS pump and A/C compressor).
* Pulley damage. Physical damage of any kind on the automatic tensioner pulley may indicate excessive tension or physical interference. If the pulley is damaged, replace the tensioner assembly not just the pulley. If an idler pulley is damaged, inspect the tensioner also because vibrations caused by a bad idler pulley may damage the tensioner."
http://www.aa1car.com/library/belt_tensioners.htm
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#8
03-03-2013, 12:42 AM
#9
03-03-2013, 12:17 PM
As willdogs mentioned, it seems like there something up with the PS pump/system Perhaps the pressure regulation of the pump has gone haywire, simultaneously causing: Excess resistance for the belt resulting in slipping, and excess pressure in the hydraulic system resulting in fluid overflow at the reservoir. (/end guess).
.02
ps. Please come back and let us know the fix, whatever it turns out to be.
Last edited by vqsmile; 03-03-2013 at 12:22 PM.
#10
03-03-2013, 01:29 PM
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To my understanding, this part of the symptoms isn't consistent with just having a bad tensioner; WHY should a slipping belt cause fluid to leak out the cap???
As willdogs mentioned, it seems like there something up with the PS pump/system Perhaps the pressure regulation of the pump has gone haywire, simultaneously causing: Excess resistance for the belt resulting in slipping, and excess pressure in the hydraulic system resulting in fluid overflow at the reservoir. (/end guess).
.02
ps. Please come back and let us know the fix, whatever it turns out to be.
As willdogs mentioned, it seems like there something up with the PS pump/system Perhaps the pressure regulation of the pump has gone haywire, simultaneously causing: Excess resistance for the belt resulting in slipping, and excess pressure in the hydraulic system resulting in fluid overflow at the reservoir. (/end guess).
.02
ps. Please come back and let us know the fix, whatever it turns out to be.
#11
03-03-2013, 06:32 PM
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#12
03-03-2013, 08:26 PM
Thank you guys so much! Re did everything and notices there was a bunch of shredded pieces from the old belt still stuck in the power steering pulley and the pulley thing on the tensioner. Removed all of it and put in some more fluid for power steering and the noise went away
I hope that you got it all fixed and don't have any more problems, but that fluid part still bugs me. I guess time will tell.
#13
03-03-2013, 09:02 PM
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Also, right after i pulled pieces from my old belt out and redid the belt It still made the noises but it wasnt that loud. Then I turned it off and let it sit to cool down and noticed my power steering fluid was low (obviously cause of leaking) so I added some more fluid (ATF) and the noise went away. Ill let you guys know how it goes tomorrow
