Hmm... here's what i'm thinking. Once that strut bar is removed, i feel like there's plenty of thread to tighten the nut back down to, it's getting it through the topmost stripped section that i'm wondering about... can i force the nut through it until the nut reaches good thread?

If that's a no go, i'm going to find a new top plate altogether and just replace it since it's likely i'm going to have to remove the whole strut assembly from the car once those nuts are off, it seems. :\

It doesn't look like anything moved in the few days i've driven with it, so i'm hoping the remaining nuts that's holding the strut assembly in place aren't too stressed (or won't be until i can fix this altogether.)

 

Hmm, so you are thinking of not replacing the bar then?

I think your idea to use the remaining undamaged threads underneath to secure the strut (only) has potential, provided you either A) remove it and chase the threads with the appropriate die, or B) cut the damaged threads off and clean up the very first few thread ramps right near the cut with a fine file to get a clean start with the nut. If you don't chase it one way or another, then I think anytime you run a good nut over bad threads, even just to get past them and onto some good threads, you run the risk of galling or catching and dragging shards into the good nut and stud sections and ultimately compromising them as well. Summarizing, I think the only way to do it would be to clean/remove the damaged threads first.

Now, if you do plan on reinstalling the strut bar, you probably need to either replace the whole assembly, or you could do as mentioned earlier: drill out and replace the stud either by welding a new one in place of the stripped one, or as mishmosh said, just use an upside-down bolt to make the stud. (I would tack weld it rather then JB though, as any decent muffler shop could do it for cheap.) Theoretically, that could be done without disassembling the entire strut assy, and could be just as strong as the original. If you are worried about aligning the new stud/bolt, remember you have the other two good studs right there to triangulate the perfect temporary brace off of during the weld.

Heck Mike, this is actually starting to sound like a fun project; can I come over and play in your garage?

 

This is a good thread about threads (or lackthereof), nice to know there's been a lot of thought from the posters about various plans of attack. Sure hope it works out without too much more trouble, I'm sure it's driving you NUTS. (Sorry Mike just couldn't resist).

 

Any updates Mike?

 

Whoa! Sorry, i missed y'alls response.

Nope, won't replace the bar, it's getting sold if i have a chance at it. I'm actually looking for a local 2nd gen owner who's willing to swap all my aftermarket parts with + cash.

Yep, the G is going away, sadly.

Ha! You guys crack me up. I got the replacement top mount in the mail, so that's going in soon. Might just chisel away the nuts that won't come out. It's a lot of extra work (not to mention having to compress the springs to swap out the top mount and such) but is probably the best way to go.

G or no G, i'm up for play!

 

Well yeah, but where's the fun in that?

 

Damn Mike, sounds like you're going to be moving on
What plans do you have down the road?

 

Chiseling is fun. With my luck, i'll end up cutting the FTSB in half.

Took a lot of thinking, analyzing and calculating to say the least. I think i'm coming out ahead with the move. I'm not totally convinced i'll have fun in the process, but we'll see. Let's just say it's a rather drastic change. ETA is within a month.

 

Can you share any details, or is it too soon?