I am wondering how much drop on the suspension before I need to install camber kit to keep the align within or close to factory spec?

Thanks.

 

Doing a Search you would have found that any drop will require a total camber kit unless you or your parents own a tire shop. Don't believe me, lower that sedan drive it for a week then have your alignment done. Ask the tech/mechanic how far off OE specs your alignment is, unless it's dead nuts you need a total camber kit! SPL offers the best adjust-ability to bring your alignment back to OE specs or better. Sold on our Marketplace under vendor suspension...Gary

 

Disagree. Mine is dropped 1" and I only wear on the insides a bit, not enough to be a problem. I my tread is almost worn out by the time the insides are showing cords. Toe is the most important to tire wear.

 

I totally expected this ^ if you buy quality tires spending those $$ you want your tires to wear even! Then there's the way your car drives when you're alignment is off even a degree or two. On a straight I can take my hands off SLICKS steering wheel and she doesn't wander but stays on track. Do the job right if you're going to lower your G so you don't worry about tire wear and how she drives!
Gary

 

Gary will probably disagree with me as well, but I'll offer my opinion as well.
From the info that is out there I can safely say that if you drop your car under an inch you should not worry about front camber kit. Rear, yes (those are not very expensive)
As Texasscout has mentioned, your uneven wear is not an issue most of the time because it's not as significant. However it is a different scenario with different tire brands. Sort tires such as Toyos will wear out much faster due to camber while rest of the tire will have allot of life left in it. Higher quality tires will hold up much better. Plus negative camber is a bonus for handling. So the only camber I would worry about (with any drop) is rear.

 

My alignment is NOT off. It is within spec. I DO have an extra degree of negative camber that HELPS with handling. Ask any racer what negative camper does on the track. My tires last 22-27000 miles witch is NORMAL for that type of summer tire.

 

This is the opposite of a happy camper

 

Around 2 inches or more you'll get some natural camber but it isn't much. You'll get around a -1 degree camber.

 

Mine is -1.2 degrees

 

Tesasscout
What settings do you run your Tokicos at?

 

Obviously there is no simple answer. Drop it, have it aligned and go from there. I needed front camber kits when I was lowered on only S-tech springs. The important thing is find an alignment shop that knows what they're doing.

 

^+1 on alignment shop.
I got lucky with mechanic that does my alignment. He happens to own dropped lancer, so he know's what's going on when it comes to lowered cars.

 

When I dropped my X sedan on eibach's it knocked my camber out -2.0 degrees front and rear. Went back and did the SPC kits which got everything back to spec. I believe the eibach's are 1.5 - 2 inch drop. You can actually check your own camber with nothing more than an iPhone and a level. I did this before and after I dropped it and the iPhone was within .1 degree from what the hunter alignment machine reported.
If it were me I'd do the SPC kits at the same time it will save on labor, or at the very least do the front's those are easy. The rear is a little more of a pain because you have to drill out the toe bolt holes but still overall not super difficult.

 

Four notches back from full firm. Works great!

 

This seems to be the right thread to ask these questions. So, I plan on dropping my 06 sport suspension coupe on Tein S techs which is -1.2 in front and -0.9 in rear and I'm going from 19s to 20" rims. I've heard mixed emotions that it wouldn't be necessary for a camber kit, this true? If it isn't true than I was planning on getting kinetix front camber arms and rear toe bolts (I also heard rear camber arms aren't necessary, hoping someone can confirm this too) and what I also need to know is why some people say SPC is the only brand that has enough adjustment to get back to OEM alignment, Is this true? Or would kinetix be ok?