Hi all, my G has been running perfectly for around a year now after the P0011 code last summer. I do my own oil changes so at the end after I transfer the oil to another container I usually inspect what has settled on the bottom. I have been noticing some extremely thin little chip like objects that range from 0.5mm-1mm in size (around 4 of them, if I put one in my hand it feels like a little paint chip) and a handful of tiny little particles (maybe 20-30 of them). It's definitely not a "shiny" oil pan just some particles scattered here and there. I was wondering if this is normal for all of you DIY oil changers out there. I do not remove my under tray when doing my oil change so often the oil splashes onto the tray then drains down (I've gotten grass in my oil pan before from the under tray). I'm just not too sure if the engines dying or I'm just getting dirt and particles in there when draining the oil. Thanks!

Try using a magnet to see if it's metal particles, however, I have a feel it could be plastic from your timing chain guide rails. They get worn out over time and the chain will scrape against it. If you start hearing a slapping sound when starting your car and then it goes away that's usually time to replace the tensioner and/or guide rails.

I did use a magnet and they don't seem to be metal, I was worried they might have been aluminium which might have caused it not to be picked up. Oh it might actually be :/ when I had my P0011 code due to the burst gasket I heard the chain slap around at around 1900 rpm- 2000 rpm, but I fixed the code by doing some engine flushes combined with putting a bit of lucas oil engine stop leak. Maybe I do need to take it to infiniti to get the front timing cover off, fixed the gasket and replace tensioners and guide rails.

If you can lay your hands on one, get a good oil pressure test gauge & attach it at the oil pressure idiot light switch fitting hole, next to the oil filter. If you're not getting around 14 psi oil pressure at idle, and around 43 at 2000 rpm, it's likely the oil gallery gaskets you referenced are shot. I got the P0021 code (which is same issue on the other bank) & cleared it and it didn't come back for more than 6 months, only after a long, hard trip. Checked the op & got 9 at idle, and 19 at 2000. That is terrible oil pressure, but engine ran great the entire time. But it's a bomb waiting to fail.

This is one of the things that really pisses me off about sports cars today. You can't get a good set of gauges even if you wanted to. I partly blame this on the fact that most people wouldn't know what they were looking at if they did include them. Why does the cheapest F-150 pick up have a full gauge set and a "sports luxury" car does not.


I asked my daughter if she ever checks the oil in her car, "you mean there's not a light for that?"

Yes, I partly blame myself for that one. I will say that now she changes her own oil.

Oh you can have a good set of gauges, we just need to install em ourselves. And then mention what you're doing here and get asked, "what do you need those for?" Some of us like to know what's going on under our hoods. I've used AMSOIL 10W/30 synthetic for several years. When I couldn't get it I used Mobil1 same weight. Watching my oil pressure gauge I was getting 3 to 5 lbs less at idle...switching back to AMSOL.
To the member finding odd particles in his oil, if you're not cleaning your oil catch pan and changing oil in a clean garage you shouldn't be concerned about what you find in bottom of that pan!
Gary

How much did it cost you to fix yours? Cause my car has just hit 100,000 km and to be realistic it's probably worth maybe 13-15g at best? I live in Canada so I believe our auto maintenance stuff is a little more expensive. So realistically if the repair cost something like 3g or above I wouldn't even consider it. I think I'll try to check the oil pressure soon, if too low I'll ditch it before it completely fails. And also, what would be the normal range of pressures be?

Does the VQ use oil pressure to keep the cam chain tensioners tight like the 4.6L Ford modular V-8? That would explain a lot of noises from some engines.

I have not fixed it yet. Local Infiniti dealer gave me est of $1,700. They est 12.5 hrs tech labor, but they intend to R&R the rear timing cover. I don't think that will be necessary, so I intend to do it myself replacing the gaskets only, but not the full rear cover (the OEM rear cover comes with gaskets & gallery covers already attached). I've drawn up a parts list with prices from Sewell, assuming I do all the labor, parts will be roughly $241.60 (roughly ). But that includes a bunch of parts I intend to replace that are not part of the job simply cause they've never been replaced at 71K miles, like rad hoses, thermostat assembly, water pump, & serp belt.

1700 doesn't sound to bad, since your problem involves removing the rear cover to replace a two dollar part, lol. I was quoted about 1000-1200 just in labor. I did my timing chain, water pump, tensioners, and several other things on my own. It was also my first major car repair like that.

I have a thread I started when I did it with some tips, part numbers, etc.. It took me several weekends, since I had a spare car. It is a pretty involved process. I have an 06 coupe though, not sure if all the part numbers are the same.

I bought the Z1 silicone hose set and put those in at the same time.

I know the KA does

what a headache this is =_= I'm going to pick up a oil pressure test gauge later today, if it's below 14 I'll just send it to the shop and get it fixed or trade it in for I dunno probably like 10g LOL? Bought the car for 25g and only had it for 2 years :'(

Did your oil pressure warning light come up at all? cause I feel like if my pressure is low that light should be on?

When your oil pressure light come on your already that's why every where you read on Driver we recommend checking your oil frequently!
Gary

No, never.