AT the present time, the best info I've seen points to the latest revision of gasket (i.e. the metal one) not being issued until Sept 2011, so that would basically equate to when the 2012 models were first being made. Also, there is at least one account of a 2011 model year car having had the gasket failure occur, yet none for a 2012 model, so that would seem to corroborate that only the 2012 and later model years are 100% safe.

It is possible that there could be a few extremely late production date 2011 models that incorporated the gasket as well, but you'd have to look at their actual production (build) date to see if it was post 9/11 (no, not THAT 9/11).

 

Hmm okay. And these codes are pretty much the most MAJOR problem due to OEM parts that we will encounter as a G driver?

 

Yeah, I'd say it's probably the most major potential issue, but that's not to say there couldn't be other potentially expensive problems as well. They are just not typically as unseen and undetected as the OP issue, so they are more likely to be picked up/noticed when checking out the car.

 

ive heard the 7AT is sort of clunky and slow responsive / lag on the G37, and since this problem occurs with them too, is it better to get the 5AT? But then again, I heard the 7AT is quicker and better on gas. I'm still researching. I just hope the G is the right car as I already sold my old car

 

As you noted, there are arguments to be made for either one. Of course, you could always skip it and just go for the 6MT.

 

Jsut came from a 5SPD manual accord. How is the clutch? Smooth? Or heavy. The thing is, I think for ANY car above 300Hp, it should be a manual. But due to college and long trips, I don't mind them if there isn't any traffic. But if I'm on the road for 4 hours and suddenly hit traffic, I'm going to cry.

 

Honestly, the clutch in these cars is a disappointment when compared to many other cars. The pedal action is an annoying combination of stiff, numb, and a somewhat hair-pinned. Add to that the failure prone clutch slave cylinders with their ridiculous access issues, and you have the makings for a pretty low satisfaction score. Sure, you can see some improvements with pedal mods and an aftermarket CSC, but it just seems wrong that you have to do any of that on a car in this category.

As much as I can see its flaws though, I do still love driving a manual, and since they aren't making them anymore, I guess I will just keep driving this one as long as I can. If I had to commute in stop and go traffic on a routine basis, I'd probably end up going with an automatic.

 

Nah I def get what you saying. I mean, I just feel as if manual is better at driving than an automatic for multiple reasons. But yeah, I'm going to be in stop and go traffic (Not all the time, but enough to where I might cry when I enter the onramp to the freeway during rush hours ) haha. How is the little automatic shifters (In the AT) compared to the acutal manual (besides the obvious of no clutch, not as much enjoyment, etc)

 

I'm probably not the best to ask about that. The times that I have driven either the 5AT or the 7AT, I found the paddle shifters to be just kinda meh . It seemed like there was some delay now and then at critical points where I was wanting an immediate shift and I just found it frustrating given that I was coming from a manual. My guess is that, with some time and practice, one can anticipate the delays and synchronize to the car's 'rhythm'.

 

Im going to go over to myg37 but you might kno. So I went to goook at a 2010 g37 sedan journey today. For the push button start, it started but sounded like it struggled. The second time, same thing but getting better. The engine had close to no coolant. Idk about oil. Been sitting in the lot for 30 days. It's at a good price. Idk why people aren't buyig it. You think the engine is bad ? Or it's the low level of coolant / maybe oil. Also had less than 1/4 gas.

I don't know the last time it had been started but it wasn't recently (5days). You think the struggle with the initial start up could be because of the gasket? Or just how cold the engine was / lack of fluids

 

Is this on some little independent used car lot, or is it at a proper new AND used car dealership (be it Infiniti or some other make)?

Typically, those little independent places are just full of fail.

I can tell you that I can leave my car parked for 2 or 3 weeks at a time and it will start right up without the slightest bit of hesitation; just like as if I had driven it within the hour. IDK what's up with that one you saw, but it doesn't sound good at all to me.

The VERY LEAST a used car dealer can do, is top off the fluids, so if you open the hood and see something clearly low, then I'd immediately assume they are neither reputable or trustworthy and I'd probably walk away. So many good cars out there to be found with just a little patience. The worst mistake you can make is to get too anxious and jump into a deal that goes sour on you. Take your time; trust your better instincts.

 

It's pretty much a lot where they do the work (advertise , sell, paperwork, etc) but they get a cut out of it.

Bought my first car from there with no problems. But this g is questionable but idk. I like it cause it has the sport wheels that infinitis came w

 

Do you guys think I am jumping into buying a G to fast? Now, i'm seriously considering a 10' G37. I was going to borrow some money (I have $15,000) and buy one for $18,000. But what I'm asking is this. Am I jumping the bullet to soon by going straight to a G37 when I can get a V36 G35 for 3-4,000 cheaper?

No one in my family has ever owned a G. I have 1 UNCLE who bought a 2011 G37 NEW and he only put 20,000 miles on it in 4 years because he gets 15 mpg (city driving plus I dont think he reset his MPG from when it came new). But what I'm saying is this. Should I Borrow the extra money to get a 37 or there isn't that much of a difference besides the interior and fog lights (of course, more things but mostly interior / exterior).

Please let me know. I don't want to regret this decision and make the wrong move by purchasing a G if it's not the best. I just assume their great cars cause these engines power a lot of everyday vehicles I see on the street.

 

I say get the g35. Get an oil pressure test, if it goes well, buy it assuming all else is well. Imo the issue w/ gaskets is blown hugely out of proportion.

 

I think I settled on a combination of both worlds...

Haha, in other words, I found a 2009 G37 Sedan Sport. I really wanted the upgraded interior dash / design from the 10'+ , but I just came to the understanding that I wont find a good one in as good as condition as this 09 under 20,000$