G35 Sedan V36 2007- 08 Discussion about the 2nd Generation G35 Sedan 2007 - 08

No Key Detected Error after I wash my car and park outside overnight

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Old 01-06-2019, 10:27 PM
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No Key Detected Error after I wash my car and park outside overnight

In Toronto, temps are below freezing. I park outdoors.
I washed the car last week, no key detected error.
Doors wouldn't lock, car wouldn't start, after the car warmed up the error disappeared.
Washed the car this week, same error same symptoms.
Doors wouldn't lock, car wouldn't start, parked the car indoors underground in a paid lot and after the car warmed up a bit the error disappeared.
Anyone have any experience with this problem.
My fob battery is good.
Low temps and moisture are a bad combo.
 
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Old 01-13-2019, 05:35 PM
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Washed the car the other day, it did it again.
Now the car door won't open from the inside or outside handles.
I have to slide over to the passenger seat and use the passenger door to get in and out of the vehicle.
I think the actuator is done.
Anyone ever have a door problem?

Found this online:

"More than likely you will need to replace your door lock actuator. This is a known problem with some Gen 1 and Gen 2 (07-09) G sedans. Im surprised Nissan/Infiniti never issued a recall. Do a web search on it and you'll see for yourself. I'm dealing with this very same issue as we speak. I had to rip my door panel apart to get to the inner door shell, then remove the black metal center with all the 10mm bolts holding the regulator assembly. I removed most of the bolts so I had enough slack to pry the skin/metal cover open a bit near the actuator. From there I sprayed about 1/4 bottle of WD40 all over the actuator and all over the cables in desperation, and kept pulling/pushing on the inside door handle cable, and somehow the door opened. In my situation, I discovered the cable from the outside door handle going to the actuator seems to get frozen in its sleeve over time from water/moisture and lack of lubricant, also the lever on the actuator that this cable pulls cant fully contract because of the dead cable blocking that last 1/4" inch of travel needed to open the door. There are 3 cables total. One for the lock/unlock feature, and the other two are for opening the unlocked door, and they both pull the same lever but are attached differently. The inside door handle cable pulls a secondary lever inside the actuator which pivots and pushes the external main lever enough to open the door. The outer handle cable loops in a circle, but goes directly to that lever on the outside of the actuator. Its kinda like the mechanism that pops open your hood. Its a more direct connection with that external lever on the actuator as opposed to the way the inside handle operates. If the inside cable gets frozen or pops, you can still open the door from the outside, but if the outside cable gets stuck, you wont be able to open the door which is the problem I had. I think that cable gets wet from water that runs down your window and gets behind the weather strip/ window belt line molding, also from the carwash with their high pressure jets. The reason the outside handle is loose and has no tension is because the lever is the source of the tension, but if the cable is frozen you will just have a limp door handle since the spring loaded lever has nothing to pull or push back on it. That pesky little cable is about 1 and a half to 2 feet long but you can ONLY get it with a new door actuator. Im thinking about pulling my actuator out and taking that cable to a motorcycle repair shop, and have them make me a new cable, then reinstall and hope everything works. Its a lot of work, and its too cold out right now, especially when you factor in the window, window motor, and regulator need to come out, then have to be re-aligned. My next and most likely option is to buy a new actuator from the dealer for a little under $300 and have them install it in like 1 to 2 hours while I get a loaner. Please update with any info you receive on your door issue, and whether or not youre going to fix it."
 
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