slight hesitation on slow take off
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Joined: Feb 2022
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Dark Blue X, FX35 wheels painted black, BC Coils, tinted windows
I replaced spark plugs and coil packs less than a month ago and nothing has changed
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From: Washington State
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
Ok but how do the plugs actually look? Are they all consistently the same color? What color? Any deposit? Any that are wet? One that's black or orange? Reading the plugs will tell you a lot about what kind of misfire it has, too much fuel, not enough, just one cylinder, etc.
Does this happen if you start the car and immediately drive on a cold engine? Only when hot? What happens if you give it a LOT of throttle from a stop?
Is there any condition you can get it to drive and feel normally?
Does this happen if you start the car and immediately drive on a cold engine? Only when hot? What happens if you give it a LOT of throttle from a stop?
Is there any condition you can get it to drive and feel normally?
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Joined: Feb 2022
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Dark Blue X, FX35 wheels painted black, BC Coils, tinted windows
"Ok but how do the plugs actually look? Are they all consistently the same color? What color? Any deposit? Any that are wet? One that's black or orange? Reading the plugs will tell you a lot about what kind of misfire it has, too much fuel, not enough, just one cylinder, etc."
Answer: Most plugs looked "good" (not wet, all mainly the same color, no deposits, no oil etc.) although I do not have pics to confirm so I can't add much besides that I do have all the old coil packs just cuz.. I think some plugs were a little orange from what I can recall but
nothing that seemed specifically out of line. I will admit that one plug was problematic because the bottom of the plug boot didnt come off with the spark plug boot so I had to dig it out. and cracked the old spark plug in the process. I vacuumed and blew air in and out of that cylinder multiple times before putting the new plugs in. Torqued to spec and tried to take my time with everything. I'm capable but not an expert. It runs almost exactly the same as before maybe a little better but still the sputter of course.
Does this happen if you start the car and immediately drive on a cold engine? Only when hot? What happens if you give it a LOT of throttle from a stop?nothing that seemed specifically out of line. I will admit that one plug was problematic because the bottom of the plug boot didnt come off with the spark plug boot so I had to dig it out. and cracked the old spark plug in the process. I vacuumed and blew air in and out of that cylinder multiple times before putting the new plugs in. Torqued to spec and tried to take my time with everything. I'm capable but not an expert. It runs almost exactly the same as before maybe a little better but still the sputter of course.
Answer: No. It does not sputter when the car is cold. Only when hot. If I give it generous throttle after it's up to temp and it's sputtering as usual, I can feel it sputter much much less and it kind of powers past it. but i can still tell it wants to. stomping on the pedal from a stop, it would basically be non-existent..
Is there any condition you can get it to drive and feel normally?Answer: No. It always starts to sputter after its up to temp. Once it's up to temp, I can recreate it very easily in a parking lot by holding my foot on the brake and lightly pressing throttle until it sputters (so i dont have to keep rolling around a parking lot but that's when its most apparent and most annoying).
It will only sputter under a load like in Drive or Reverse, not in Park or Neutral.
I've never seen a misfire code on this G until last week and it was only for that moment and then went away immediately after. There was no driving differences in that moment either it just seem like a fluke honestly. and If it was misfiring when up to temp so consistently, why not throw a code for it?
I truly appreciate your time and responses. I love this car and would love to see it run well.
It will only sputter under a load like in Drive or Reverse, not in Park or Neutral.
I've never seen a misfire code on this G until last week and it was only for that moment and then went away immediately after. There was no driving differences in that moment either it just seem like a fluke honestly. and If it was misfiring when up to temp so consistently, why not throw a code for it?
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no noticable driving concerns and I already had the OBD2 plugged in so i checked it quick after and it showd a cylinder misfire???
this hesitation only happens during a take-off? going wot has full power?
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From: Washington State
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Ok next thing I'd check is the engine-chassis bonding jumper. It's attached to the timing chain cover on the right side and lands on the chassis near it. It's a 1-hole lug on the timing chain cover, 2-hole lug on the chassis side. It's a larger gauge wire, if that ground is dirty it basically throws all the electronics off for engine controls.
If that doesn't do it go over everything with a can of throttle body cleaner to see if you can get it to drop idle while running. Basically just checking for a vacuum leak but I'm not thinking this is the issue because you can stomp the throttle and it works, usually if there was a vacuum leak it would sort of have a delay/lag before taking off.
If it's not a grounding issue and not a vacuum leak then I'd definitely start suspecting your upstream O2 sensors. As they age they get lazy, normally not enough to throwing codes unless the heater inside it burns up though.
Has it had any hard starts? Like you had to crank it for longer to get it to start?
If that doesn't do it go over everything with a can of throttle body cleaner to see if you can get it to drop idle while running. Basically just checking for a vacuum leak but I'm not thinking this is the issue because you can stomp the throttle and it works, usually if there was a vacuum leak it would sort of have a delay/lag before taking off.
If it's not a grounding issue and not a vacuum leak then I'd definitely start suspecting your upstream O2 sensors. As they age they get lazy, normally not enough to throwing codes unless the heater inside it burns up though.
Has it had any hard starts? Like you had to crank it for longer to get it to start?
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Hi, so I still have the slight hesitation at take off and my idle seems a bit erratic once up to operating temp. I tried to make appt for Infiniti dealership that is closest to me (2 1/2 hours away) and they told me they wont work on it since its a 2007, gees. They did say that independent shops should have the tool to re-flash ecu, does anybody know for sure if it can be done outside Infiniti?
This is driving me crazy, all because the battery was disconnected for a day, never seen a car do this before....
This is driving me crazy, all because the battery was disconnected for a day, never seen a car do this before....
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Joined: May 2017
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From: Washington State
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
The dealership you called probably doesn't carry the Consult-III programming module for that car anymore. I think it still uses the card-based modules like Consult-II.
Call around to local shops and ask, doesn't hurt to make a phone call.
Alternately you could find a local UpRev tuner to do it, or talk to @seymore4 about e-tuning your car.
Call around to local shops and ask, doesn't hurt to make a phone call.
Alternately you could find a local UpRev tuner to do it, or talk to @seymore4 about e-tuning your car.
Yes, we send you the Uprev kit which includes a OBD2-USB cord so you can connect your laptop and upload the file we send. Then you just record datalogs while driving around so we can see how its running and dial it in. Total cost is around $600