I'll testify. Makes it better in every way! It's a performance tune, not just a "flash back to Infiniti default." Smooths out the power band so it starts pulling sooner. Valet rev limiter. Security no-start setting. Can improve gas mileage. But it probably won't, because the car is so much more responsive that you will want to driiiiiiiiiiiiiive it!

 

My car is all stock, just over 100k now, just wondering if this is something I want to do to it, versus just get it back to no hesitation is my real goal.

 

I made a video of my G's hesitation from a stop for clarity and posterity.. I also get some weird very slight fluttering rpms at certain highway speeds when I'm slightly pushing the throttle trying to maintain a consistent speed or just barely speed up.. but if I lay into it just a little more, it revs up smoother. harder to replicate than the stutter from a stop that brought us here...

In the video, I warm start the car in a grocery store parking lot after 20 minutes of driving. Temps and everything are fine, minus the CEL for O2 sensors I described in previous posts.
Skip to 40 seconds on the video to hear it take off and stutter (almost double stutters) and then near the end when I stop, I hold my foot on the brake and feather the throttle and the engine stutters without moving, then I take off again and it continutes to stutter. It drives like this everwhere all the time every stop and go it stutters. Driving me crazy honestly.

@seymore4 if you're confident we can fix this with an UpRev Tune then I'll probably be seeking your services in the next few months. @G2B35AGN 's comment about pulling sooner also really catches my attention.... always feels like I'm not getting enough in 1st and 2nd gear then the rest is better.. especially since I'm always trying to throttle past the stutter problem in the first place . I feel like if it wasnt stuttering in that critical take-off moment, its overall power delivery/drivability up to the next gear would hit better too? Am I still making sense? idk... trans fluid looked fine when i changed some a few months ago.

https://streamable.com/14p1dp

some other weird issue that popped up has me thinking electrical issues somewhere too now... I took off on the highway with maybe 80% throttle for some fun... the red "BRAKE" light illuminated on the dash! but soon went away as I slowed down.. I tested the parking-brake pedal at a low speed and it was fine and it actually triggered a seperate indicator saying the pedal was pushed (i didnt lock it in at all, just pushed enough to see it trigger the warning light)
then the next day I do something similar but using the paddle shifter i switch from 2-3 a gear somewhat out of time then the BRAKE, VDC, and Slip lights come on too! Still driving fine but I restart at a gas station and it all goes away.

 

Brake light was probably just low brake fluid, there's a level sensor in the brake fluid reservoir and when you accelerated it probably sloshed the fluid just enough to trip the level switch.

Does your stutter correlate at all with you turning the steering wheel?

When have you had your alignment checked last?

Reason I ask is I wonder if it's actually the traction control kicking in momentarily that's causing your stutter. There's a lot of moving pieces to that puzzle but poor alignment is definitely one of the primary culprits. Same with the steering angle sensor located in the steering wheel clock spring, typically though you have other buttons on the steering wheel that don't function when it's a clock spring.

Does your engine rpm stay the same or flare just slightly when you're parked and nudge the steering wheel? The rpm's should not DROP when you bump the steering wheel a little.

I can definitely hear that stutter in your video, it sounds like a vacuum leak hesitation to me though.

 

I can't say for sure but I have noticed that it has stuttered harder in real driving scenarios versus when I'm trying to replicate it which is usually in a straight line or with my foot on the brake with the wheel straight and still.I bent a rim a few months ago and haven't had it aligned at all since I've purchased the car a few months before I bent the rim. Ive got some Q50 17" rims I'm going to put new tires on soon and I'll get aligned then. Currently sitting on FX35 20" rimsYES IT DOES DROP RPM when I nudge it! I've also noticed the steering rack/pinion had def been worked on at some point cuz they used a raw piece of metal wire to twist down one of the boots. Prly wrecked at some point in it's life. We may be on to something here!

 

so weird for 3 days the slight hesitation went away completely all on its own! No issues while driving, no issues taking off or reversing slow as before. Then yesterday its back, same thing again, what the heck!

 

I’m wondering if you are having a short / break in one of your wheel speed sensor lines. When it shorts it can’t read speed.

 

I am not sure, never thought of that except it all started after battery was disconnected for about 1 day while installing new ac, and I see so many other guys with this same issue, and its only after the car gets up to operating temp, never when you first start it and drive off it acts perfect

 

I would suspect the alignment is probably off a little and thus throwing the computer calculated geometry between the steering angle and actual tire direction off.

If you ate a curb your alignment is probably screwy, you should get that checked, but it won't fix the calculated steering angle geometry. That requires a trip to the dealership to recalibrate the steering angle sensor.

However you say it all started after installing new AC? What exactly was replaced? Compressor sits close to the wheel speed sensor, did you do the work yourself or did someone else? They may have removed the tire to get better access and may have damaged the wheel speed sensor (or just not snapped everything together properly on that corner.

 

I noticed another forum post recently asking about cruise control not working and VDC, slip, and CEL lights come on. My Cruise Control also does not engage but WILL turn "On" at least. Another member in that post mentioned his clock spring was the issue for his CC.. could this have something to do with our problem here?

 

The steering angle sensor goes through the clock spring, so yes it's possible.

The steering angle sensor is actually mounted right behind the clock spring, it looks like it's one assembled unit but it's actually two pieces.

However there's quite a few reasons why the cruise control wouldn't engage and simple things like turning your wipers on (actually ON, not just momentary) will cancel the cruise control on a lot of vehicles.

 

Ok so now the idle started jumping up when I parked and the check engine light popped on! I had the code pulled and its P0174 fuel system lean B2. Guy said mass air flow but I started searching videos and a guy showed that he found air leak on passenger intake hose plastic square piece that is attached to the rubber intake hose, his had a whole that looked like a rat ate it, but I just went out and felt around that part and sure enough on the bottom side in the corner of the plastic it is falling apart! What I need to know is have any of you taken that part out and added a straight connector and dont need that as I cant buy just that part of course, Infiniti only sells the whole intake tube with that part attached around $250-280 part #16576-jk21a

 

I went ahead and ordered the whole passenger tube and part from Infiniti, so its on its way, hoping this solves all these weird problems after new ac condenser and serpentine belt and receiver dryer were all replaced. My theory is when they took off the intake hoses that part was brittle already and created a whole, sounds like a bad part to begin with since others have same hole. Will let you guys know if this fixes the hesitation etc.

 

well folks it looks like my stuttering problems were answered for me.. got rear ended on my way to work yesterday. Thanks for all your help in here and I hope you all find the answers to your problems. for what its worth, just a few days ago, I did perform a vaccuum leak test with a smoke machine I made with a pickle jar #iykyk and with the intakes plugged with rubber gloves I pumped the sytem with smoke until they were tight and eventually a very small leak in the passenger cylinder bank around the middle piston's spark plug coil area emerged. I can't say for sure that's where it was coming from and I had planned to run another smoke test eventually but then this happened. I then sprayed the valve covers around that boot (and all the others) with throttle cleaner but still no obvious idle fluctuations so it was all inconclusive. even made sure it was hot when I sprayed it since it only stuttered when up to temp.
anyway... I imagine it'll be totalled. I'd like another G but can't always find what you want of course. Any recommendations?

 

Well damn, that's unfortunate.