I bought a 2008 Infiniti G35x auto 170k a couple months ago and it had a p0024 code. It ran great on a long test drive and I figured for the price I paid at a used car dealership I had enough $ left to fix it. There is a very quiet rattle when the car is warm but you have to listen for it. My first step was changing the bank B camshaft sensor. Cleared codes and it ran great until I ran into this issue where it has been stalling on warn starts as soon as I put it into drive. I then changes the VVT sensor a couple weeks later. At this point I have cleared the codes and revved the car for a minute before driving a few times. NOW Im getting a p0021 and p0024 code. I changed out the bank A vvt sensor and still the same. I then changed the other bank B camshaft sensor with the same results?? Is this a magnetic retarder issue or possible timing belt issue? I have researched and followed all paths to fix the problem. The car runs perfectly fine until parked and started warm. Still throwing both codes. Appreciate any help!

 

Just to add I did do a full synthetic oil change and have only pumped 91\93 in the short few weeks I've owned it. Oil was dirty but no signs of damage to the engine or any other red flags.

 

Bump

 

hey, man. when i got my ride many moons ago, i, too, had p0014/p0024 codes. the prior owner claimed they've replaced both vvt covers at the dealer (i could def. tell they were newer), so that threw me off for a while, until one day i decided to swap both covers from a junk yard donor. and whadya know, both magnets were no good (the ones that the dealer had replaced)... that solved the p0014/24 issue.
p0021, however, is not an easy/good code, unfortunately. last year, i started getting p0011 and swapped a multitude of different vvt solenoids to no avail. it never affected the performance (never went into limp mode) and i just lived it. figured the vvt sprocket itself took a dump (car had near 300k at the time). then, earlier this year, my bank 2 cam snapped right off, so that was the end of that engine...
if your car is not going into limp mode, then it's probably not oil pressure related (you'd most likely pop both banks if that was the case), tho the paper galley gaskets on these should be replaced at some point, if you're trying to keep the car. how many miles on the rig, btw?

p.s. p0021 is bank 2/B (driver side).

 

I just ordered a refurbished vvt/cvt cover with magnet for bank b. I didn't want to play the follow the parts game but here I am. I'll update this in a couple weeks if anything changes. Still open to suggestions.

 

Lmk how that goes. I got a p0024 code. Don’t know which route to go already did oil change. Other than that she’s a beauty

 

read my post above. p0024 is the magnet retarder on the exhaust cam bank 2 (driver side). nothing to do with oil. if you don't want to get the cover, just live with this code. it never affected the performance of my car when i had both banks throwing these codes.

 

As long as the Intake cams are working, the exhaust will exhaust the gases. Once you get those codes, it's just a matter of time before you'll have to replace the retarders and possibly sprockets. The HR is a good engine but not the best for the average city user; It needs to be beat more than often to keep it in check.. At least mine did..

 

i beat mine so much, the bank 2 intake cam exited the chat... still ran, tho lol i can't complain, she was close to my magic number of 300k (fell short at 277k).

 

Well, you know, it's a figure of speech.. Engines don't last forever and if you have a HR that runs great, then you should be happy till it doesn't..
Mine ran solid but the MPGs sucked and i was tired of waiting for power.. Now i have my Jag and i don't have to wait for power, it literally begs me to floor it..

I've dynoed it 2 weeks ago in this shop that had no fans for my 2 intercooler heat exchangers and my intake temps got to 190! Worst $140 spent but i'll re-dyno it at a better shop eventually because those numbers don't add up..

 

looks like it made almost 550 wheel? isn't it rated that at the crank? not to take this off-topic (maybe create a thread on this beast elsewhere?), but what mods does it have?

 

Should equate to around 620 to the crank.
Unknown tune, larger crank pulley (177mm vs 155mm) pushing out 13psi of boost. I've easily lost 20-30 horses with that HOT air going in because when i drive around town, i got 130F intake and on the highway, around 100F and it rips a$$, much stronger than my previous XF with same drivetrain (minus the crank pulley) and with VelocityAP stage1 tune from an F-Type SVR.

But hey, about this HR issue; If you gonna keep the car, then invest in those retarders and sprockets. Otherwise, degrease it, wash it and sell it.

 

watching your YT episode 1 on this thing just now and seeing the "2 inches of room" on the side to do the coils lmao it is a V8, after all...

 

Yeah I’ve doing some research and that’s what it’s looking like. Just gotta find the time to get in there.

 

lucky for you, it's bank 2 on the driver side. super easy to take the vct cover off, unlike the passenger side...