Done my searching re: Driver's Window NG--Took out the motor and cleaned it up -- didnt look bad at all. Put everything back together and voila --no activity now at all! Doesnt go up or down, motor not running etc etc.
1)Is there a reset switch and procedure on the 03-G35 coupe? I have the TSC for the 350Z but I dont recall seeing a switch on the motor when I had it out?
2)How can I bench test the dam motor? There are about 6 wires coming into the harness - four going to the motor and 2 going to the lift cable mechansism -- which I am assuming are limit switches. I would like to put B+ and ground on the motor to verify it runs in both directions before bolting back in!

Love my car -- and it roars like a raped ape -- but this motor reliabilty bs is something that really pisses me off about Nissan.

Thanks for all replies.

 

there are only two wires for power and ground. these wires will switch between negative and positive depending on which way the window is commanded to move.

terminals 1 and 2 - green wire and blue wire, respectively.

more than likely you will need a window motor.

 

Many thanks for the prompt reply. I now know more than I ever wanted to about dam window motors on my G35. Your response enabled me to get further into the repair. Here is what I have garnered:
-One can test the motor definitely on the bench-- but unless you take off the limit switch mechansim you will damage the plastic gears etc.
-Just pry the metal cover off (it is only hand tight) and leave everything alone re wiring etc.
-Wire up a batt charger B+ and ground to the green and blue wires as Mr. Webb mentions.
-The motor will run or not. Mine didnt run !
-Dismantle the commutator cover (the brass colored cover held on with 3 phillips heads) and lift to expose the lead screw and the commutator windings.
-CLEAN FASTIDIOUSLY and completely (Q tips and alcohol, and a toothpick between the winding slots on the rotor) using compressed air when you are through cleaning and put everything back together.
-Not a boad idea to check the resistance in the windings when you get things back together -- and there should a dead short (very little resistance) through the commutator/winding (that is power and ground).
-If that checks out leave the drive cover off again and power things up and the motor should rotate without the drive attached.
-Mine rotated fine after the cleaning and I will now bolt everything back up knowing that at least I have a good motor to start.

Many thanks to Mr. Webb and the "DIY sticky windows" -- THE definitive source document for this repair.

 

awesome man! good to see you got creative and avoided the cost of a new window motor. before you button everything down, the window motor will have to be timed. here is the procedure:

raise glass all the way up using manual - NOT auto
while holding reset switch fully lower glass - again dont use auto
release reset switch and raise glass all the way up - dont use auto.
your window is now timed. auto up and down should now be functional

 

Thanks much to pwebb---
Retimed the motor and everything is right!!
Pita was getting the regulator bolts back on
Before I reset the motor!!

Again thanks!!

Chet