I own a 6 mt. When ever I start off in 1st gear or reverse, when the car starts to go, I hear a clicking sound from the axle. Is this a warranty issue? If not, is there a way to fix the problem? I was told that they need to be greased. I would like to if anyone know anything I could possibly do. Only my powertrain warranty is still intact.

Thanks

 

It should be covered under warranty unless its a recall...not 100%. I am having the same issue but my powertrain is over so I might SOL. How much would it cost from the dealer?

 

it will be covered if still under warranty.

dealer will probably quote you two hours to do the job. no parts are involved, just grease.

 

i just got quoted from the ddealer $260 to fix it.. they said a new bolt kit was needed... go figure.... from what others have been doing, grease seems to work with some owners..

 

heh, been a while since I've done one. I believe the bulletin calls for new axle flange nuts and bolts.

if you're out of warranty, just ask them to reuse the old bolts. if you are paying for it, you can call the shots ... up to a certain extent. I cant see a problem with using the existing hardware.

 

^^?? so all it really does need is more grease?

 

yes. bulletin calls for Molykote M77 ... if I recall correctly. only the outermost flange (closet to axle nut) is greased.

 

yes the builliten does call for new axle bolts and nuts for the reason becuase to do it per the TSB you need to remove the axle but there is a trick if you want to do it yourself use a puller, put it on the hub, and run it in to touch the axle, that will give you enough clearance in betweent he axle seating surface and the hub to get the brush in there and apply the grease.

And yes it does call for Molykote M77, if its under warranty bring it in its an easy 1.3 hours for the tech =)

I have done hundreds of these for both Nissan and Infiniti, and once you do a ton of something it becomes easy as pie and lovley to do for easy money.

 

if you do decide to drop the axle, reusing the bolts will not be a problem.

 

is there an alternate way without using a puller? what about basic tools?

 

the axle nut is held on with quite a bit of torque. grab some leverage.

get a dead blow hammer and some PB blaster. spray the axle splines down and hit axle on its end, towards the vehicle, to break the corrosion seal with the hub.

if you only have a sledge, you can still use this to hit the axle, but you have to be careful.

first spin the axle nut back onto the axle until the top surfaces of each are flush. the idea here is for both the nut and the axle to receive the same force.

use a 2x4 or something similar to absorb the impact.

if you just hammer on the axle with the sledge, you will deform the metal and may no longer be able to thread the nut on correctly.

 

i have not yet seen the axle be siezed int he rear of these.

also they want you to replace the bolts becuase there is threadlocker that is on them and the new bolts come with new threadlocker already on them, hense why they want you to replace the bolts when you remove them.