Broke AC high pressure pipe #1
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,198
Likes: 29
From: Jacksonville & Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Broke AC high pressure pipe #1
Long story short - I installed the Z tube back in the day and after 2 weeks I inspected the engine compartment and realized the bracket was rubbing the hard AC line, so I moved the clamp before it broke the line, but there still existed a deep groove. Now - 2.5 years later I'm installing a VRT strut bar and I gently bend the pipe (near the rubbed area but not on it) into position. As I'm lowering my strut I hear the hissssssss. !!! DAMNIT !!!! it has come back to haunt me.
I am looking at the factory manual that is included in the DIY section. Replacement looks dooable. I will have to remove the low pressure flexible hose and low pressure pipe 1 to get to it. Has anyone done it? I have heard people say it costs something like $800 for the dealer to fix.
I can't figure out the part number though.
Help? Please?
I'm currently in AL and will be in FL soon.
Adrian
I am looking at the factory manual that is included in the DIY section. Replacement looks dooable. I will have to remove the low pressure flexible hose and low pressure pipe 1 to get to it. Has anyone done it? I have heard people say it costs something like $800 for the dealer to fix.
I can't figure out the part number though.
Help? Please?
I'm currently in AL and will be in FL soon.
Adrian
Last edited by Jamaica2G; Jun 4, 2009 at 08:16 AM.
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,198
Likes: 29
From: Jacksonville & Ft. Lauderdale, FL
and now when I run it, the belts squeak like a beat up 1982 toyota corolla that's missing the passenger seat, battery acid eaten through the back seat, dragging the muffler with a rusty hood....
I'm gonna try to wipe the belts off in the morning - sheesh
I'm gonna try to wipe the belts off in the morning - sheesh
take a quick glance at your belts. if they are cracked and/or shiny, they could probably be replaced. could just be refrigerant oil that sprayed onto the belts, causing the squeal.
you could also try tightening them up a bit. work from under the vehicle.
crack the 2 14mm tensioner pulleys
drive the 2 12mm adjusters in a few turns. you will need a swivel and extension
tighten tensioners.
its tough to describe proper belt tension. you just have to feel it out. they dont need to be that tight, just snug enough to where they wont slip. A/C has its own belt, leave that one just a touch looser.
you could also try tightening them up a bit. work from under the vehicle.
crack the 2 14mm tensioner pulleys
drive the 2 12mm adjusters in a few turns. you will need a swivel and extension
tighten tensioners.
its tough to describe proper belt tension. you just have to feel it out. they dont need to be that tight, just snug enough to where they wont slip. A/C has its own belt, leave that one just a touch looser.
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,198
Likes: 29
From: Jacksonville & Ft. Lauderdale, FL
yeah it's def the coolant on the belts
I wiped dome off this morning before going to school and put a little of that conditioner spray stuff. I'm coming up on 54k miles and was thinking about doing the 60k service early - which would include changing belts...
I'm gonna see if there are any AC guys that could TIG weld the hole shut. It's so miniscule, I still can't even see the damn thing. If not, I'll be dismantling half of what I did and replacing that line next weekend. Grrr
Adrian
I wiped dome off this morning before going to school and put a little of that conditioner spray stuff. I'm coming up on 54k miles and was thinking about doing the 60k service early - which would include changing belts...
I'm gonna see if there are any AC guys that could TIG weld the hole shut. It's so miniscule, I still can't even see the damn thing. If not, I'll be dismantling half of what I did and replacing that line next weekend. Grrr
Adrian
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,198
Likes: 29
From: Jacksonville & Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Success! I read the manual and changed it out myself. The line was $61 after taxes and the disconnector was $7.
It took me about 4+ hours which included removing the VRT bar and putting it back on along with everything else.
Now to get it recharged!
Adrian
It took me about 4+ hours which included removing the VRT bar and putting it back on along with everything else.
Now to get it recharged!
Adrian
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,198
Likes: 29
From: Jacksonville & Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Bump for additional info. A few people have PM'ed me over the year asking which line etc.
According to the service manual, it is referred to as High-Pressure pipe 1
and requires disconnector (92530-89908) to take it off and replace with ease.
I know more experienced people say you don't need the disconnector, but knowing me, I would screw something up, so I bought it.
If someone gets the part number for the pipe, note it in this thread please!
According to the service manual, it is referred to as High-Pressure pipe 1
and requires disconnector (92530-89908) to take it off and replace with ease.
I know more experienced people say you don't need the disconnector, but knowing me, I would screw something up, so I bought it.
If someone gets the part number for the pipe, note it in this thread please!
FINALLY just replaced mine today. Thanks for all the info Adrian. Mine was a little more complicated because I had to bend it all over the place to avoid the turbo.
FYI, if you are in a real bind and can reach the damaged part, "WATER WELD" putty works AMAZINGLY well. I just was in the car anyway and decided to replace the pipe for a cleaner look. To use the putty, clean the area well with a degreaser such as purple power or something similar, mix the putty and make a hot dog bun shape. Wrap the pipe completely around or else it will pop off from the pressure. Mine lasted for about 2 years but I wont recommend using it for a permanent fix as the putty may degrade over time.
The label on the pipe is:
92440-AM601 PIPE FRONT
Found it on google here (not used) for $40 bucks!
http://www.nissanpartszone.com/parts...440-am601.html
Link to WATER WELD:
http://www.jbweld.net/products/water.php
KEYWORDS FOR SEARCHES:
High Pressure AC line pipe 1
FYI, if you are in a real bind and can reach the damaged part, "WATER WELD" putty works AMAZINGLY well. I just was in the car anyway and decided to replace the pipe for a cleaner look. To use the putty, clean the area well with a degreaser such as purple power or something similar, mix the putty and make a hot dog bun shape. Wrap the pipe completely around or else it will pop off from the pressure. Mine lasted for about 2 years but I wont recommend using it for a permanent fix as the putty may degrade over time.
The label on the pipe is:
92440-AM601 PIPE FRONT
Found it on google here (not used) for $40 bucks!
http://www.nissanpartszone.com/parts...440-am601.html
Link to WATER WELD:
http://www.jbweld.net/products/water.php
KEYWORDS FOR SEARCHES:
High Pressure AC line pipe 1
p.s. when installing the new AC line, move it around and make sure you get at least a half an inch of clearance. Bend and install some clips to prevent rubbing / lining if there are tight spots. Even minor rubbing will easily cause that line to rupture !
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the AC will remain off... any idea how much the line costs?


