Hi all,

Just bought my '06 G35X a week ago. It has 36K miles.

Here is what I have done in the last week or so:

Dealer changed the oil right before I picked it up. I will change it with GC 0W-30 at the next change. I did these:

Changed coolant with Nissan Long Life coolant (had to burp 11ty billion times)
Drained/Refilled rear diff with Amsoil 75-90 severe gear
Drained/Refilled front diff with Amsoil 75-90 severe gear
Drained/Refilled transfer case with Nissan Matic D
Drained and refilled ATF *4 times* with Nissan Matic S
Rotated tires
Replaced front rotors (pads still had 50%+ life but rotors were shot)

I have a new air filter on the way and I will also change out the power steering fluid a couple of times. I will wait until 50-60K to do the plugs and check for spark plug tube oil leaks at that time.

What did I miss? Anything?

 

sounds like to hit the major points. also PCV valve. why are you going to go with 0w-30? you can do more of a complete trans fluid change if you drain and refill and then disconnect the return hose from the radiator and drain from there (while refilling). you can do a power steering 'flush' too: http://infinitihelp.com/diy/gsedan/p...stallation.htm

2004 G35x, Motordyne 5/16" Copper Iso Thermal Plenum Spacer, Z-Tube with Pop-Charger, NGK Iridium with Mobil 1 Synthetic, EBC Green Stuff Pads with EBC 3GD Sport Rotors, Brake Master Cylinder Stiffener, OEM Spoiler, Grounding Kit

 

PCV valve, huh? At 36K? For real? My wife's Jeep has 150K on the orginal with no issues and my Subaru has 77K on the original with no issues.

Is this a known problem/issue in these cars?

Thanks for the heads up on the flushes, but I don't do them.

As far as GC 0W30 goes, it's because it's the best oil out there IMHO and will work just fine in our cars.

 

I would recommend a brake fluid flush also. I do this every 2 years. A quick visual of the reservoir will give an idea of the condition. if it's not clear but amber or dark colored change it out. Also take a look at the power steering fluid, if its not a clear red but more of a dark brownish color change that too.

 

You've done everything else, why not? It's cheap.
As far as the oil, I believe he is questioning the weight choice, not the brand. Why 0W30?

 

Will do, picking up some PSF tonight and will check out the brake fluid but I will probably wait until 60K to flush that out unless it looks really bad.

Because it's the only weight that GC is made in.

And I ask you, why not? The 0 is not going to hurt me any on cold starts and I thought our cars were rated for a XW30 weight oil, 10W30 perhaps? Is there something I am missing here?

 

I just bought a G35. What recommendations do you give for an oil change?

 

Personally I like German Castrol 0W30 (pretty much only available at Autozone) from the analysis results I have seen in other cars. I haven't had a used oil alalysis done on the G yet, so I can't be sure but I'm fairly certain it will be a VERY good performing oil for the car. This is the oil I use when I want to run the absolute best.

The other castrol synthetic oils should work well too (5W30, etc.).

A lot here like Mobil 1. I can't figure out why. You might as well run super tech from Walmart, Mobil 1 no longer makes a quality synthetic oil.

Then again, it's just a regular old naturally aspirated car. Any oil will probably be just fine as long as you change it every 3500 miles or so.

If you really want to learn about oil, go check out www.bobistheoilguy.com

HTH.

 

As to your original question, you have hit the basics except for the in-cabin filter. Most people neglect to change this and it should be done every year for high pollen areas, every two years if not.

In response to something you said;
A lot here put their pants on before their shoes, why?, it works better for them.
My point being, if something has been tested, and proven to work, why do something different.

I'm not being a spokesman for Mobil 1, because we use different brands in different vehicles, but if you brought your Nissan vehicle in for an oil change, we would put Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic or Clean 5000 for non-synthetic.

 

That's just it though. Any oil will "work", but it yes it HAS been tested, and shown NOT to work as well as just about anything else in the same price category.